Chevy 3500 Hood Latch Replacement

Temporary Cable to Latch Hood Closed

Detached Hood Latch Spring

Things break from time to time.  A couple of winters ago the hood latch for the engine compartment would not latch while during a trek.  This was very inconvenient and was a potentially dangerous situation.  If the hood is not properly latched it can open unexpectedly while the vehicle is moving, obstructing the driver's vision and resulting in an accident. I temporarily used a locking cable to hold the hood closed until I could get it repaired. It is show in the photo above.

My 2013 Roadtrek 210P is built on a 2012  Chevrolet 3500 Chassis. I have sufficient mechanical skill to do this type of repair, but doing so takes on certain risk.  Caution: An improper repair may result in a latch failure and that in turn can result in opening of the hood while the vehicle is in motion. That can cause a serious accident with injury or death.   Vehicle repairs are not something everyone can or should do.

For the curious, this post shows what your mechanic would do were he or she to replace the latch.

I accepted responsibility and purchased a new latch part from Tom Auto Parts, Inc. Tolleson AZ. The cost with tax + shipping was $31.88.

Now, I could have gone to a Chevy dealer or a local mechanic, but decided this was something I could do and save a few dollars.  Collecting the tools, doing the repair and cleanup took about an hour and a half.

The most difficult thing was figuring out how to get to the old latch.  I could see a spring was loose, but I couldn't get a tool in to stretch it and re-attach to the catch point. I decided that if I was going to go through the effort to remove the latch to affect a repair that I might as well put that time and labor into installing a replacement.  That's when I decided to order a part and replace the latch. 

To do this required removing two bolts holding the plastic grill against the frame.  I was then able to pull the grill out about an inch, sufficient to get a 3/8 socket to the three bolts holding the latch in place. With the bolts removed I was able to swing the old latch up and out of position.  I was then able to squeeze the clamp holding the release cable in position on the latch. I removed the old latch, and using the new latch I reversed the process, sliding the release cable through the opening in the new latch and pushing the clamp into the hole on the latch. I cleaned the frame and bolts with silicone spray. Then put it all together and using the pull under the dash I released the hood, then closed it and released it again, etc. This to determine it was working correctly.

Here's a few step-by-step photos. I Began by opening the hood and then did the following:

 

Using a 3/8 socket I removed the left bolt holding the plastic grill in place, 

then did the same for the bolt on the right

I pulled on the left of the plastic grill, releasing it from the frame

I did the same where the grill attaches on the right

I then pulled along the grill to release it from the frame

While pulling on the grill, I inserted a 3/8 socket and
removed the 3 bolts holding the latch in place

I then flipped the hood latch up so that the release cable could be removed

I made note of the routing of the release cable so it would be installed
 in the same manner with the new latch .
I was able to release the cable from the latch by squeezing it
with a needle nose pliers where it enters the latch, and then pulling the cable free.

This photo is after I removed the cable.
The old latch is now free and can be removed.

I then laid the new latch above the location to be installed, aligned as shown. 

I slid the release cable through the hole in the latch and into position.

I then pushed the retainer into the hole in the latch.

I was then ready to dop the latch into position, as shown.
I took care to route the release cable 
so it was behind the plastic grill.
The new latch had 3 rectangular holes.
I installed 3 bolts through the center of the holes.

Close-up of one of the hood latch bolts 

I then went to the driver's seat and pulled several times on the hood latch release lever, to ensure that the cable is free.  Then returned to the hood latch and applied silicone lube to the springs, etc.

I closed the hood, and checked to see that it caught properly, and the hood was snug to the frame.

Returning to the driver's seat I again pulled the hood release lever. I then exited the vehicle and released  the latch completely.  I then raised the hood.  It was important to be able to raise the hood.  At this point I decided that the replacement was complete.

Note: If the hood isn't snug when closed, it would have been necessary to slightly loosen the three bolts holding the latch in place and adjust the position of the latch, then I would have retightened the three bolts.  I would then have rechecked the latching mechanism by closing the hood ensuring was snug, etc.

N. Retzke accepts no liability for anyone else doing any repairs to their vehicle after reading this blog.  Do any and all repairs and modifications at your own risk!

(c) N. Retzke 2025

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