Winterizing - Water System

Morning in New Mexico - it was 50F about 12 hours earlier!

Added a few photos, etc. October 2019.

Roadtrek makes a variety of models on a variety of chassis. The following is from my experience as a 210P owner. However, portions may also apply to the 190 which is also on a Chevy Chassis.

Important Disclaimer: Refer to your Roadtrek manual. This information should be considered to supplemental. In the event of technical conflicts, it is your responsibility to make a decision and properly winterize your Roadtrek.

Here's what Roadtrek's website says about the 210P, from their website on October 17, 2018:

"Is the water system designed for winter use?
In 190 and 210 models, we’ve added a second fresh water tank inside [about 10 gallon capacity]. By using RV anti-freeze in the black and grey water tanks, the water system can be used in below freezing conditions to 10° F (-10° C). In the 170, SS, and RS models, the fresh water tank and lines and water heater should not be used in below freezing temperatures. However, you can still use the sink and toilet by carrying a fresh water supply inside the vehicle and using RV anti-freeze in the black and grey waste water tanks." See this Important Note:

Important Note:

1. Per Roadtrek manual for newer Roadtreks: "The 190 and 210 Popular models have the capability to operate in mildly sub-freezing conditions, provided the water system is properly configured." To configure the plumbing valves must be in the proper position. This is described in the 2015 210P manual with diagrams. Roadtrek also states "In winter mode, the line between the two tanks is closed, and the exterior tank is drained to prevent it from freezing. The outside shower water lines are closed and drained to prevent them from freezing, and the water pump draws water from the interior tank, which is protected from freezing by cabin heat. The hot water heater will also not freeze if left running. In this way, hot and cold running water continues to be supplied to the galley sink, toilet, and shower.
2. I have read in Roadtrek manuals that it is recommended that if you do decide to keep water in the interior tank of your Roadtrek and the outside temperature decreases below freezing, Roadtrek stipulated that you keep the interior temperature above 65F.

However, there is a difference between "Winterizing" and "Long Term Winter Storage". This post looks only into the aspects of winterizing the water components of a Chevy based Roadtrek.

What is "Winterizing"?
Because my Roadtrek has water systems that can freeze, certain steps MUST be taken to assure that when it is subjected to below freezing temperatures that pipes, the water heater, tanks and so on will not freeze and be damaged.

Why is this possible? When water freezes, it goes from a liquid to a solid. When water freezes, the water molecules freeze in a hexagonal pattern and the molecules are further apart than they were in liquid water. That re-arrangement causes the volume to increase about 9%.

It is this realignment and expansion that is the problem. It can burst pipes, damage components, valves and so on.

Winterizing addresses this problem by taking steps to avoid damage to the water filled components of your Roadtrek, including the fresh water system, hot water heater, and drain systems including the pipes, valves, water pump, toilet, p-traps, gray tank, black tank and macerator.

Other Resources
If you are a member of the FMCA Roadtrek International Chapter, you can also go to the excellent article by C. A. Campbell which is on their website, and which goes into all of the aspects of winterizing. The title of that article is: 

WINTERIZING YOUR ROADTREK MOTORHOME

You can also get additional information about this by reading the most current Roadtrek manuals. For example, I was able to download a 2016 Roadtrek 210 "How To" manual which has a section on "Summer and Winter mode" as well as "Water System Winterizing"

https://www.roadtrek.com/support-contact/#section-manuals


Approaches to Winterizing
There are two approaches.

1. Drain all water out of the system and use a special anti-freeze to replace the water and protect your Roadtrek.
2. Use air to blow out all of the lines, etc. However, that still requires anti-freeze in the drains (p-traps), toilet and gray and black water tanks, and the macerator. 

Roadtrek does not recommend using compressed air to blow out the fresh water lines. Why? Because of the possibility of damage.

Who is to do this:
There are three choices:

1. Do it yourself.
2. Have a qualified RVing friend assist you or do it for you.
3. Let a dealer do it. 

My approach:
I do it myself, with help from G. I purchase two gallons of "pink" anti-freeze suitable for potable use (about $8-10) and I add it to the two fresh water tanks in the Roadtrek 210P. I then pump it throughout the piping system. Some is also added to the P-traps in the bath and center aisle:

My procedure:

1. Completely drain the gray and black water tanks. 
2. Park level, or with the front of the 210P slightly down. 
3. Be certain the water pump is off. 
4. Be certain the [interior] valves to the exterior shower valves are open. (Photo 1). These are inside the water pump compartment, to the left of the refrigerator in a 210P.
5. Open the valve connecting the interior fresh water tank to the exterior one; this connects the two tanks, and allows any water in the interior tank and connecting piping to flow to the exterior tank, emptying them. (Photo 2). 
6. Open the Fresh Water System drain valve. This is adjacent to the exterior water tank. This is accessible with the drawer slide out. (Photo 3). Drain the system completely.
7. Open the valves at the exterior shower, the kitchen sink, and the bathroom sink. (I put the kitchen area sink faucet valve into the "center" position and "up" which opens both hot and cold. 
8. Remove the anode from a "cool" hot water heater. (step back, as the contents will flow out). (Photos 4, 5, 6  and 7).
9. Hold my foot on the toilet Foot Pump and allow that part of the system to drain.
10. After the entire system is drained of fresh water, close all of the valves at the various points: exterior shower, kitchen sink and bathroom sink. 
11. Change the valves for the hot water heater to "bypass" mode. (Photo 8)
12. Replace the anode in the hot water tank. 
13. Add about 1 gallon of ""Pink" antifreeze at the interior tank (#2) fill point (at the rear door). This will flow from the tank (#2), through the open valve and connecting piping to the exterior tank (tank #1). (Photo 9, 10 and 11). Replace the orange plug.
14. Add about 1 gallon of "Pink" antifreeze at the exterior tank (#1) fill point (fill point is inside the driver's door). When done replace the orange plug.
15. Save some anti-freeze for the P-traps in the floor of the bath area and the center aisle. 
16. Turn on the water pump. (Photo 12).
17. Open the cold water valve at the exterior shower until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
18. Open the hot water valve at the exterior shower until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
19. Open the cold water valve in the bath sink until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
20. Open the hot water valve in the bath sink until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
21. Open  the cold water valve in the kitchen sink until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
22. Open the hot water valve in the bath until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close. 
23. Flush the toilet until pink anti-freeze comes out. Run it a bit longer to get more into the black tank. 
24. Add anti-freeze to the P-trap drains in the bath area and in the hallway. 
25. Run the macerator and dump the black tank until anti-freeze comes out. This assures that the macerator has anti-freeze in it. Do the same for the gray water tank, to assure that the gray tank line to the macerator also has anti-freeze in it.
26. Go to the city water fill point, remove the cap, remove the screen and press on the spring-loaded check valve stem until anti-freeze comes out.  Note: this is a step most don't bother to do. However, this step assures that the exterior water fill point also has antifreeze in it. 
27. Turn off the water pump.
28. "That's all, folks".

Photo 1 - Interior valves for the outside shower
Valves to be open for winterizing, as shown
(Handle in-line with the piping is an OPEN valve)

Photo 2 - Tank connecting valve in the CLOSED position.
Rotate this valve so the handle is in-line with the piping to OPEN.
Open Position connects the inside fresh water tank to the outside.

Photo 3. Fresh water system drain valve. 
Valve is shown in the OPEN position (handle is in-line with the piping)
In a 210P, this valve is accessible with the exterior drawer in the slide-out position.

Photo 4 - Anode looks like a pipe plug and is hidden by the heater tube in this photo.
 Remove the anode to drain the hot water heater

Photo 5- Close-up of Anode
A 1-1/16 in socket is required to remove (Channel-Lock pliers may work)
Don't forget to use teflon tape when re-installing

Photo 6 - A 1-1/16  inch socket is needed to remove the anode.
Use teflon tape when re-installing to make the connection leak proof

Photo 7 - Anodes are expendable and sacrificial. Top is a depleted anode
below it is a new anode.
 I use Suburban magnesium anodes on my suburban water heater

Photo 8 - Hot water heater bypass valves in a Roadtrek 210P - in the "winter" position
Top is the center "bypass" valve which is in the open position (handle in-line with piping)
Left and right are the inlet and outlet valves to the water heater - both are closed (handles at right angle to piping)

Photo 9 - Interior Fresh Water Tank - Fill Plug inside rear door

Photo 10 - Interior Fresh Water Tank - Fill Plug Removed

Photo 11- Using a funnel to add pink antifreeze to a fresh water tank -
Photo is for the exterior tank which is filled via the driver's door entry point

Photo 12 - Water Pump switch is ON

A Case History Example

We once were driving from Illinois to Arizona and ran into a really nasty winter storm in New Mexico. Temperatures were about 50F with rain, but were predicted to fall below 15F for several days. So we dumped the tanks while trekking, and I performed the above procedure while in a gas station. I always carry two gallons of anti-freeze in the rear-under storage compartment.  That night, the temperatures dropped to about 5F. The next morning we awoke to a winter wonderland.

I've found that doing this procedure takes about 30 minutes. I have a funnel stored in that rear compartment too!

Our First winter trek, December 2013

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Trekking in the Fall with Winter coming

Update October 21, 2017:
Over at FB I commented "My 2013 210P has two fresh water tanks and 2 gallons of RV antifreeze is enough. I rinse and drain the gray and black tanks multiple times, until clear. Then I drain the fresh water system as well as I can. I completely drain and rinse the hot water heater, then reinstall the anode. I then bypass the water heater. Then I add antifreeze to both fresh water tanks as recommended by Roadtrek in their 2015 210P "How To" manual section. I then follow the recommendations per the manual to pump the antifreeze throughout the fresh water system. However, once water no longer exits the spigots I catch the antifreeze in a bucket. That I save to add to the P-traps including the gray tank and also to the toilet. Works well for me."  One thing I do sometimes forget to do is to run the macerator after I've put antifreeze in the gray tank. That pushes the water out of the macerator and hose. However, I've never had a problem with the macerator. That may be because I carry a spare with me.

I have found the "How To" section in the 2015 210P manual to be very helpful. This is an updated manual which is available at the Roadtrek website. It can be found in the "Support" section.

For that reason, I suggest going to the Roadtrek source for information.


Original Posted September 23, 2017:
Over at Facebook some of the groups are now going back and forth about the necessity or not of winterizing a Class B, etc. in anticipation of below freezing travel.  Some seem to think that they can trek and beat the weather if it turns. Is winterizing necessary? I've included some additional info from the Roadtrek manual for a 210P at the end of this post. However, Roadtrek's online 210P 2016 manual states:

"Do you really need to winterize? If your Roadtrek is going to remain heated to comfortable temperatures, and the temperatures during the day are well above freezing (above 40 deg. F or above 4 deg. C) and the forecast is for temperatures just below freezing for a few hours at night with calm winds, then you don`t need to winterize. The heat in your Roadtrek is enough to keep the lines from freezing.

If the forecast is for extended cold periods, with daytime temperatures at or below freezing, if you`re not heating your Roadtrek, or if you expect sustained winds and the roads and ground is already frozen, you need to winterize.

As always, you are final judge and you need to do what is comfortable and makes you feel good. If you are not comfortable with leaving water in your lines when it gets cold, and you will sleep better, go ahead and winterize."

Here's a couple of our experiences.

The current chatter at FB could have been triggered by the reality of snow in Montana last week. Or perhaps just cooler weather in places like Bryce Canyon National Park, where the weather tonight will dip to 22F.

I chuckle when some say "I'll be travelling on I-10 and no one that far south needs to be concerned about freezing weather". Here's a photo taken by a work associate in New Orleans a few years ago, on December 10. Yes, that's a small snowman photographed in a mini-blizzard:

Making a snowman in New Orleans

Back in Northern IL it hit 98F at home today, where the heat index was 101F. In Tucson, AZ it is 84F! Where we are today it is currently 85F, with a breeze coming in from the lake. There is a big bike race tomorrow.

At the beach 11:00am

The weather will soon change. When it does there will a lot of discussion about "winterizing."

This is the time to figure it out. When the temperature drops below 25F it will be too late. You don't want to be in that predicament, do you?

Trekking through southern Indiana a few years ago on December 7 we encountered bad weather, as shown in the next photo. Yes, that is snow and ice. We did camp overnight, but with winterized tanks. We ran the propane furnace then switched to electric ceramic heater and the generator. We carry several jugs of water, 1.5 gallons or 2 gallons each. We also carry three gallons of pink RV antifreeze, even if we are already winterized. Here was the situation in Indiana on the morning of  December 8:

The following year we left Illinois in January during a warm trend. In Missouri it was about 50F and we spent the night in a RV park in Tulsa, OK. It was mild and we had water in the fresh water tanks. But there was a fast moving storm coming out of the west. We left early in the morning with temperature expected to reach 55F but by the time we got to Texas the temperature had dropped to a high for the day of 44F. As the winter storm approached the temperature continued to fall. We were headed toward Roswell NM and the weather updates changed the low to a much lower nighttime temperature. How low? The temperatures were predicted to go below 20F that night. On that trek, because it had been predicted that temperatures would be well above freezing during the day, but not below about 30F at night, we decided we didn't need to winterize. The weather did not cooperate. Now we were faced with a dilemma.

Well, en route and in the middle of the day we stopped to dump both fresh water tanks which were about 1/3 full. I left the outside tank drain valve open and allowed any water in the lines to trickle from the inside tank to the outside one and then onto the road. We stopped at a gas station as dusk approached. At that station we winterized right then and there, using the pink RV antifreeze I brought with me, and the funnel. There was blowing snow as we continued our journey.

By the time we got to Roswell it was dark and snowing with a lot of standing water in the town, from a downpour earlier in the day, when it was 50F. I drove into the RV park where we had a reservation (don't travel without it!); there were no sites available. Our reservation was the only thing that got us in, as RVers scrambled to find places with electric hook-ups to ride out the storm. I parked and hooked up the electrical. I didn't bother to hook up fresh water or the macerator hose. We powered everything up and had a good dinner. Afterwards we settled down for the night, using the electric ceramic heater we bring with us (750/1500 watt) and if necessary we run the propane furnace. Yes, I do fill the propane tank before any of these treks. Because of our winter seasonal experiences we have since added a dual control electric blanket. Now that's toasty warm!

We got up before dawn so we could have a nice breakfast before continuing on our journey.  The storm had blown out and the really cold front had blown in. Sunrise was at 6:59am.

Dawn at 9F

While cooking breakfast I checked the weather and our inside/outside temperature display.  The temperature inside an outside storage compartment was about 6F warmer than outside ambient.

Inside temperature and in one of the rear outside compartments (clock on CST)

The 30 ampere power cord was stiff with cold, making coiling difficult. As we left the town we encountered a winter wonderland. The standing water had frozen solid with a layer of snow on top:

With the sun rising, we left Roswell, NM and headed west, southwest:

Three hours later we were still driving through a frozen countryside, en route to Las Cruces, NM:

When we approached Las Cruces, we finally reached the end of snowfall, but the temperature outside was below freezing:

Continuing on, we encountered snow on the ground at noon, and it wasn't until 2:00pm that we had finally left the snow behind us:

At 4:00PM we pulled into our destination. Temperatures were mild, in the 50s and with a low expected of 38F that night:

What does Roadtrek say about this?
I think it is important to follow the manufacturer's guidelines. If one fails to do so, then one can void warranties.

Roadtrek has manuals that are good. They even include "How To" sections.  My 210P is a bit more complex than some class Bs because it has two fresh water tanks. One is inside and the other is outside. Because of this arrangement, there are valves to select which tank is to be filled via city water and which is to be used. Roadtrek includes "summer" instructions which use the outside and inside tank, and also includes "winter" instructions in which the exterior tank is drained and isolated via valves. During "winter" operation only the interior fresh water tank is used.

Anyone can go to Roadtrek's website and download the manuals they are interested in, as well as the "How To" guides and run videos.

So what does Roadtrek say about winterizing a 210P?

The 2016 210P manual states that "In winter mode, remember that you need to keep the interior temperature at least 60 degrees F (15 C) by running the propane furnace or heat pump, and keep the water heater running. Also remember that the waste water tanks are not protected from freezing. If you use them, mix pink RV antifreeze with whatever you put down the drain 50/50. If you do not use them, drain and winterize the waste water system."

In HOWTO: Summer and Winter Mode the manual states:

"The 190 and 210 Popular models have the capability to operate in mildly sub-freezing conditions, provided the water system is properly configured. To better understand this it is best to know how the plumbing is configured. The diagrams below show how water is supplied in each mode. Solid triangles are closed valves; hollow triangles are open valves. [see diagrams in manual].

In summer mode, both fresh water tanks are in use. The interior tank is inside the vehicle and is filled via the gravity fill in the back door frame, and the exterior tank is below the vehicle, and filled via the gravity fill in the driver's door post. The water line between the two is open, so water flows from the higher interior tank to the lower exterior tank as the water pump draws water from the exterior tank. In winter mode, the line between the two tanks is closed, and the exterior tank is drained to prevent it from freezing. The outside shower water lines are closed and drained to prevent them from freezing, and the water pump draws water from the interior tank, which is protected from freezing by cabin heat. The hot water heater will also not freeze if left running. In this way, hot and cold running water continues to be supplied to the galley sink, toilet, and shower.

"Winter mode" and "winterized" are two different things. Winter mode protects the water in the system from mildly sub-freezing conditions as long as the Roadtrek is adequately heated and in use. If you plan extended stays in sub-freezing conditions or if you store your vehicle in freezing conditions, you must winterize to avoid damage to the water system. To prepare your vehicle for really cold weather, see HOW TO: Water System Winterizing • "

The 2016 210P manual includes photos, diagrams and detailed instructions. Of course, it makes sense to check the manual for your specific model and year. However, in 2014 Roadtrek made major improvements to their manuals. I have  combined the improved online manual with the one that came with my Roadtrek. That is because the manuals after 2013 provide more photos and expanded "How To" instructions. Of course, one does have to check the plumbing in their RT to determine if it matches a manual for a later model year.

The "How To" sections about the fresh plumbing include:

• Summer and Winter Mode
• Switching from Summer to Winter Mode
• Switching from Winter to Summer Mode
•  Water System Winterizing 

Winterizing a Travel Trailer

Nighttime temperatures are falling into the low 40s (7C) and so it is time for evening fires and to get ready to shut down the travel trailer. A friend recently purchased a TT and he is unfamiliar with what is required. I prepared this list, which is fairly typical:

What you need:

• 3 gallons pink (potable) anti-freeze for RVs (Note 1). 
• Disinfecting wipes
• 2 boxes baking soda
• Anti-mouse measures including dryer sheets and/or moth balls and Irish Spring soap, etc.
• 1-1/16 socket for the hot water heater anode
• Screwdrivers and #2 square bit (for many but not all trailers).
• Wrench for battery connections.
• Teflon tape for the hot water heater anode.
•  Electrical tape for the battery leads.

Notes:

1.  Many of the smaller (30 ft) or less travel trailers need only about 2 gallons of anti-freeze, so three gallons will provide some extra if required. Any leftover can be stored in the trailer for next year.
2. The purpose of using RV antifreeze is to prevent water from freezing in the pump and water lines and bursting them. The hot water heater will be drained and left empty; there are three valves for accomplishing this (see steps #12 and #13). The fresh water tank will also be drained, but in general if there is some water in the tank that should not be a problem. In fact, it may be impossible to get every drop of water out of this tank.

Purpose: To prepare the rig for storage in cold weather.

Summary: This will require retracting the awning, retracting the slide(s), removing the fresh water hose, removal of black/grey sewer hose, stowing 120V electrical cable and power protection device, disconnecting the 12VDC battery and the removal of food stuffs and anything that might freeze from the trailer, preparing the refrigerator, draining the hot water heater and putting the heater valves in “bypass” mode, the draining of all fresh water from the system and replacing it with potable (pink) RV antifreeze.  Anti-freeze will also be added to the black and grey tanks, and to all of the P-traps. Anti-mouse procedures can include Irish Spring soap, moth balls and dryer sheets.  Or your favorite technique. 

Steps:

1.  This assumes the trailer is level. This is necessary to assure that water in the hot and cold water lines will flow to the low point drains. It can take several hours to drain all of the fresh water from the trailer plumbing, so allow at least four hours to do this.  The order of some steps can be changed but sufficient time must be allowed for complete draining of fresh water from the system before adding anti-freeze.
2. Turn off the hot water heater electrical switch if dual fuel (to get to this you might have to remove the exterior cover of the heater). 
3. Turn off the hot water heater propane switch. This will usually be on a small control panel with other controls and tank level indicators. Do other things while it cools down. Or, open a hot water faucet and leave open until the running water is cool to the touch.
4. Close the propane tank valves. 
5. Empty the black tank and with the slide valve open rinse it, if it is equipped with a fresh water connection. Otherwise, put several gallons of water into the tank via the toilet and let the tank drain. Then close the dump valve.
6. Empty the gray tank and with the dump valve open run water in a sink for several minutes to allow the gray tank and hose to get a fresh water rinse. Then turn off the water and after a couple of minutes, close the slide valve.
7. Attach a non-drinking hose to the connection at the gray/black tank discharge and rinse the expandable hose for a few minutes. Then turn off the water, disconnect the fresh water hose, disconnect the expandable hose at the slide valves and drain into the dump. Then completely disconnect the hose and allow to air dry. Return after it is dry and disconnect any fittings and slide the hose into the rear bumper. Elbows can be stored in the under compartment of the rig.
8. Turn off the fresh water fill to the trailer. Disconnect this hose to assure that no water is entering the plumbing of the trailer. You can drain and stow this after opening the various drains in the next steps.
9. Turn off the water pump electrical switch, if it was “on”. 
10. Open all of the low-point drains, which can be found under the trailer. There may be several (blue pipes are for cold water and red are for hot water). 
11. Open the drain of the fresh water holding tank. Also open the outside fill connection to allow air to enter, and quicker draining. If you can’t get the drain plug or valve for the fresh water tank open, you can turn on the fresh water pump and open a faucet to drain it. 
12. Open all of the faucet valves including hot and cold in all sinks, the tub and make sure the shower spray wand valve is open. Also open the hot and cold faucet valves for any outside shower. The purpose is to allow air to enter at these points so water will drain as completely as possible from the fresh water system. 
13. Using the socket set, remove the anode from the hot water heater. CAUTION – avoid scalding water. See Steps #2 and #3. To speed up the draining, open the overpressure relief by pulling on the handle. Leave open and allow the heater several minutes to drain completely. 
14. Go inside and remove the cover(s) which provide access to the rear of the hot water heater. There are three valves which need to be changed. 1) Close the inlet valve to the hot water heater (blue pipe). 2) Close the outlet valve from the hot water heater (red pipe). 3) Open the bypass valve, which is the middle valve connecting the inlet and outlet lines to the hot water heater. This is necessary because if not done many gallons of anti-freeze will be necessary to fill the heater tank. Leave the valves in this position when stored.
15. Look near the hot water heater for the fill tube for the anti-freeze. This will be upstream of the water pump. In some rigs this is behind a removable panel beneath the refrigerator. This will be a short, flexible piece of tubing similar to the other fresh water lines, with one end open to atmosphere. It might be white in color. Pull the tube out of the cabinet. This tube will have a valve. This is the siphon tube for getting anti-freeze into the fresh water lines.
16. Open the filter ahead of the fresh water pump and clean that filter. Then put it back together.
17. The anti-freeze siphon tube is part of a “Y” which connects that tube and the fresh water line from the water tank to the water pump. One end of the siphon tube is open. That will be how we get anti-freeze into the fresh water system. The other part of the “Y” is a tube which is the fresh water line from the tank. That line will have a valve. Close the valve from the fresh water tank. 
18. On the siphon tube there is a valve. Open that valve. 
19. At this point you must wait until there is no longer any water flowing from the low point drains and the drain valve of the fresh water tank. 
20. Once there is no longer any water draining from the low point drains and the fresh water tank drain valve, close all of these valves.
21. Close all of the faucet valves both hot and cold throughout the RV. 
22. Return outside and go to the hot water heater. Close the overpressure valve, clean the anode on a rag and after applying Teflon tape to the threads reinsert the anode and tighten with the 1-1/16 socket. If the anode is nearing depletion, make a note of the model of hot water heater so a replacement can be ordered over the winter. 
23. Open a gallon of RV antifreeze. Insert the siphon tube into the container. Turn on the water pump. It will begin to run, siphoning the antifreeze. Go to the farthest point of the fresh water system. This is probably the outside shower. Open the cold water faucet. It should sputter as the pump draws antifreeze into the system. Wait for pink stuff to come out and close the cold water faucet. Open the hot water faucet. It will sputter as pink stuff is drawn into the bypass line around the heater. When pink stuff is flowing, close the faucet and return to the inside of the RV. 
24. Check the remaining pink stuff in the gallon. Go to the next, most distant faucet. Probably the bathtub. Open the cold water faucet and wait for pink stuff to flow. Close the cold and open the hot faucet. Wait for pink stuff to flow. Then open the shower valve and let pink stuff flow through the shower head. Close the hot water faucet.
25. Do the same for the bathroom sink. First the cold water and then the hot water faucets.
26. Do the same for the kitchen sink, first the cold water and then the hot water faucets.
27. Check the remaining pink stuff in the gallon. If there is enough go to the toilet. If not, open another gallon and insert the siphon tube. Then return to the toilet. Press the foot pedal and hold down until pink stuff goes into the toilet. Flush a little longer to assure that there is some pink antifreeze in the black tank. Release the foot pedal and pour a small amount into the toilet to cover the flush valve to lubricate for winter and prevent drying out of the rubber gasket. 
28. Turn off the water pump switch. Close the siphon valve and open the valve in the inlet water line. Remove the gallon of antifreeze. Close up the cabinet containing the siphon tube.
29. Take the gallon of antifreeze to the tub and pour a couple of cupfuls of antifreeze into the drain. Do the same at the bathroom sink. You want the P-trap to be filled with antifreeze. 
30. Go to the kitchen sink and pour a couple of cupfuls of antifreeze into the drain.
31. That completes the replacement of water with antifreeze in the system. 
32. Remove all food from the refrigerator and freezer. Turn it off. Prop the doors open and allow the interior to come up to room temperature. Clean the entire inside with Clorox or similar disinfecting wipes. Allow the interior to dry. Open the Arm & Hammer baking soda and put one in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. Close the doors.
33. Remove all food from the rig and all liquids. Ditto for all lotions and potions, toothpaste, etc.
34. Put anti-mouse controls in cabinets, behind chairs and sofas, etc. 
35. Close all of the roof vents.
36. Close all of the windows and lower all shades or blinds. 
37. If the TV antenna is retractable do that. If connected to cable outside, disconnect and stow the cable. 
38. Check all interior and exterior water faucets to assure that they are closed.
39. Re-arrange the furniture so the slide may be retracted. 
40. Go outside and clean the roof of the slide(s) using a broom. Wipe and clean the seals with a damp cloth. 
41. Return to the interior and retract  the slide(s). Retract the awning. Go outside to assure the slide(s) are fully closed. Check the seals to see that they are in position. In particular check the seals on the bottom exterior of the slide(s) to assure there are no openings by which critters could enter the rig.
42. Go to the exterior of the stove vent fan and make sure the clips that lock it closed are in position. 
43. Disconnect the 120VAC power to the rig. Stow the cable and power protective device. 
44. Go to the battery box and disconnect the positive lead of the battery. CAUTION – avoid shorting or grounding the cables or the battery which is DANGEROUS and can result in damage or burns and other serious injury. Tape the exposed end of the electrical cable. If desired, remove the negative cable and tape the end. For the winter, the battery may be kept in a mild temperature location at home and if desired it can be put on a charger to bring it to full charge. 
45. Tape over the outside vents of the furnace, if they aren’t screened (to keep critters out).
46. Open the outside refrigerator compartment. Clean out any cobwebs, etc. Leave several dryer sheets inside on the floor. 
47. Close and lock the doors, and retract the steps. Do a final walk around to see that there are no openings by which critters could enter the rig, all windows and vents are closed, etc. You are done.

RV Trekking when the temperatures drop

Updated after some reflection. See the comment at the end of this post. This post isn't about summer in Yosemite. This dragonfly is on the masthead accompanying this post. However, this particular post is about winter.

I think we've enjoyed our winter treks, during which temperature ranges we experienced while living in our camper van were from 2F to 79F. That's quite a difference and being prepared for this is essential. On our first experience in a RV we encountered fall nighttime temperatures of 20F. That experience gave us some first hand knowledge about cold weather comfort in an all-electric RV (solar/batteries/shore power). Our first winter trek was in early December, 2013 and we left for warmer climes in a stock RT with blankets, a 1500 watt supplemental electric heater and a roll of Reflectix. We learned a lot on that trek and we've applied what we have learned. This January we were much more comfortable during our second winter trek.

December 2013 - First Winter Trek

This isn't one of those posts about the joys of living in my RV and off the grid when the outside temperature outside is 20F or lower. Nor am I going to post about how we should get arctic gear and a balaclava to help us get through our winter RVing experience. If you are doing that, then I am sure you are practicing all the tips in this blog and more.

Yes, it is possible to RV in really nasty winter conditions. I've also ground camped at temperatures down to -25F and experienced and worked in temperatures to -65F wind chills. This blog is not about winter survival RVing. I do want to travel in comfort and I do want to be prepared for problems and issues. My spouse is most appreciative.

Almost Ready to Roll, 9 F at 7:30am

Let's be real, shall we. Many RVers use their home on wheels during the winter months for the purpose of escaping the ravages of winter. That is, after all, one of the reasons to have a home on wheels; we can get away! Others use them only in the fall, summer and in spring. When the climate gets ugly, we simply retreat to our wooden homes, or if in the RV, we move a few hundred miles and choose a better (warmer) location. There are numerous personal RV websites out there and you may notice some authors spend a lot of time during the winter travelling west to east, from San Diego, California to Florida and back. That's with good reason. It's to keep above 45F. However, if we travel anytime other than summer or more extensively northward we will each eventually encounter cold weather and we'll have to deal with below freezing temperatures. That is what this particular post is about. There are things we can do to be prepared and to make winter cold weather RVing more enjoyable.

These are my experiences as a RV newbie and some tips. I call them "rules" but you might prefer "aids" or "tips."

Now, if you are reading this from an all solar RV in southern Arizona, then this blog isn't for you. This post is provided to share my experiences in a small RV which has propane and gasoline generator when disconnected from "shore power" and two 6V AGM batteries. During the winter months if we are in our RV,  we spend most of our time connected to shore power, unless we are in movement, and we move frequently. We have not yet stayed in one location more than 10 days. We chose this particular RV because we wanted the ability to experience true 3.5 season RVing from Michigan to Arizona and with few restrictions. If you are of similar interest, then this post is for you.

We prefer to travel when the temperatures are above freezing during the daylight hours. However, nature doesn't always agree with our desires and nor does our schedule. In January we took a trek and escaped most of the cold weather here in the Northland. But darn, a more southerly storm from the west coast brought snow and cold. The nighttime temperature in Roswell, NM fell to 5F. That was an inconvenience as I had to re-winterize the RT before the temperatures dropped. (I recorded a low of 2F that night and early morning).

There are a lot of things to be said about this, but the primary issues are to have adequate fuel, be prepared and have what it takes for comfort. Our personalized and improved Roadtrek 210P has what it takes.

Rule #1:  Be very familiar with your RV's winterization requirement and winter limitations. I can't stress this enough. Be prepared to dump tanks, add anti-freeze and so on if you are trekking anywhere that below freezing weather is even a remote possibility, Yes, one or more of your fresh water tanks may be in a heated area. But what do you do if the heat fails? I recommend we be prepared. We've had a propane regulator failure, twitchy AGM batteries and a generator that didn't want to start (after some coaxing and patience it did start).

Rule #2. If travelling in the winter, spring or fall, be prepared for freezing weather.

During our January trek, we began at 30F and became complacent when daytime temperatures reached 50F. However, a winter storm dropped temperatures in the Roswell, NM area to 2F.  We had blankets for sleeping and a supplemental electric heater and full propane for the furnace, so we were adequately warm at night. We also had winter clothing and an adequate supply of "pink" antifreeze. So, the weather was merely an inconvenience and not a problem. After all, most of us trekkers have to deal with such low temperatures only for a day or two. In Roswell, the temperature soon peaked at 61F!

Rule #3: When travelling in the winter, spring or fall, take along a couple of gallon jugs of drinking water and keep this inside and warm. We use this when we travel with winterized tanks. In other words, this might be the only drinking water available. Of course, you can use the toilet if you flush with pink anti-freeze, and we do that rather than getting out of the RV in the night to use the nearby toilet facilities, if there are any.

Rule #4: Take a supply of potable water system antifreeze and be aware of how to winterize your RV. We had done the above and so the re-application of anti freeze on a recent trek was simply an inconvenience.  As the temperature plummeted we dumped the gray and black water tanks, emptied the outside fresh water tank and simply added about a gallon of "pink" antifreeze to the outside fresh water tank. We then pumped it through the system and added some to the P-traps and toilet. It took about 30 minutes. This would have been a major problem had we not packed two gallons of anti-freeze. That is one of the reasons I consider our 210P to be the personal minimum space for two. We had the room for that anti-freeze, and all of our other gear and firewood and BBQ, too!

Rule #5: Know your RV. We travel with a copy of all of the manuals for our RV, and that includes the furnace, macerator and convection oven. I made it a point to check the model numbers of everything by looking at the plates on the equipment. Do you know which specific model battery separator your RV has? Or toilet? Or inverter? When things go wrong, that information is invaluable when you call on your cellphone for help.

Rule #6: Make certain your propane tanks are full before any trek.  We had done that. So when the outside temperatures dropped, we used the portable electric heater but also set the propane furnace at 65F, in the event interior temperatures fell or the electric heater could not keep up.  We were toasty throughout the night. Why have a home and live as if it is a cave?

Rule #7: RVs are metal cans and are not sealed to be airtight. (Mine is fiberglass shell and steel body). Most have single pane windows. In other words, if the insulation is R4.5 you are doing well; but those windows have an R value of about 0.91 (useless insulating value). In layman's terms, you will probably experience drafts and cold zones at night.

To be comfortable at lower temperatures we decided we needed to do a few things to improve the vehicle comfort.  Some of these are useful in higher temperatures, too.

Rule #8: Insulate your windows. We use aluminized bubble wrap insulation on our windows (Reflectix) and that makes quite a difference in both low and high temperature extremes. I cut the pieces to fit and roll them up and store them under the electric sofa bed when not in use.  I always put the window insulation in place in the coach area at night if the outside temperature is to stray very far from a mild 70F.  If it is mild, I may skip the front (driving) area. Single pane windows, with Reflextix have an R-value of about 2.0, which is about double the insulating properties of glass.

Tip: for extra comfort in the sleeping area use two layers of insulation on the rear windows.

Rule #9: Sleep warm and comfortable. If you have a good, restful sleep you will have a better day. We've used a variety of sleep aids including polartec fleece blankets and wool, but an electric blanket is probably the best when temperatures fall.  When I sleep at home I sleep in a bed with blankets. I don't sleep in a sleeping bag. That's what I expect when I sleep in my RV; a bed with blankets and that's what we do. We have a king sized bed in our 210P and we enjoy it. The sleeping bag I store with my tent.

We experimented with a small heating pad and liked it. So we now have a queen sized electric blanket. We set it at the lowest setting. With good blankets that is sufficient. The electric blanket is really helpful for anyone with arthritis.

Our electric blanket has independent dual controls with 10 heat settings each. It's a queen size and at the lowest setting uses 110watts per side. That's per my Kill-a-Watt P3.

We've found the lowest setting on the blanket "L" to be more than sufficient. If you want a boost, select the "preheat" feature to get your nest nice and toasty before entering for the sleep.

With an electric blanket I suspect we'll probably use less electrical power. I am also experimenting with a 12V fan to get better airflow in the sleeping area.

Rule #10: If you want that gasoline generator to start, keep it maintained and use a gasoline additive. I do run ours monthly and I add SeaFoam motor treatment additive regularly so as to be assured that the carburetor of the generator has additive in it. When we are travelling from point A to point B I see no reason to add an additive with each tank of gas. So I carry a 1 liter bottle in an outside compartment and add it to the last tank of gas for our trek. We begin the trek with additive in the tank and we end it with additive in the tank. I run the generator at the end of the trek to assure that there is additive in the carburetor. To save money, I purchase the additive in a gallon container at an auto parts store and transfer it to the smaller 1 liter container. I have used less than a gallon in 12 months.

This tip could also be entitled "Keep your RV maintained." If I want the generator and other systems to perform on demand that is a must. This is also why I am committed to replacing the AGM batteries.

Rule #11: Smaller is better, in my opinion. Many won't drive a larger RV through winter storms; I've never done that, but I have driven this RT in snow and ice. I've also driven a truck in bad weather and so I have an appreciation of the concerns of the Class A driver. It wasn't fun  but there was a deadline and I did need to be at the destination on time. For RV trekkers, that is not a paramount consideration and one can park the RV and ride out the winter storm. We did that for part of our first winter trek. We drove as long as possible to get beyond most of the storm, found a nice overnight spot and fired up the generator and propane heater. We were able to continue on our way the next morning and I have found that a rear drive "van" is reasonable and comfortable in many weather conditions. I also prefer the small, side entry door for entering the living space. Really wonderful for quick entry or exit in winter. We did rent a Sprinter and that large sliding door is enjoyable for admitting the outdoors when the sun is shining and it is mild. It sucks in rain, sleet, snow and when it is really, really cold outdoors.

It's useful to keep in mind that each time one opens that living space door, one lets all the heat out and in comes the cold, rain and snow.  The front passenger seat has been rotated when we are stationary and climbing over front seats with boots, etc. is simply not a good idea. That's my experience. It hit home when we rented a Sprinter. Yes, during those wonderful, mild and bug-free days we enjoyed that sliding door. But overall, we really prefer the smaller, easy open side entry door of the Chevy van.

Sprinter and the Outdoors

RT210P - Smaller side entry

There are other things one can do, and I could make an endless list. However, there are things we do that really make a difference and the above I consider most important. 

Comment: Our first winter trek was a spur of the moment decision. We quickly packed clothes, canned goods, boots, cold weather gear, kitchen stuff, tools, antifreeze, water, a VOM and duct tape, Goop, scotch tape, a white and black paint marker, 12V battery charger and so on. We really had enough stuff and the only thing we needed to purchase besides gasoline was a roll of teflon tape for the hot water heater anode. But, we have learned more about comfort and what it takes to be both confident and comfortable on our treks. Perhaps I'm a Murphy's Law buff. But in my business that is what it takes. I prefer to have more data on how the camper van systems are doing, and I also like to pack for breakdowns. So I've begun to improve the instrumentation on the internal systems of the camper van. The RT 210P is pretty good, but for example, adding internal, external and refrigerator temperature sensors is an aid. Ditto for better power monitoring (AC volts, current draw, frequency) and that includes a desire for better condition monitoring of the coach batteries. I haven't really spent much money doing this (less than 1% additional as compared to the original purchase price), but it really builds one's confidence when camping in very cold weather. My spouse who is somewhat skeptical now enjoys our treks with significantly less trepidation than she did that first one. Alaska, here we come!