Rooster Cogburn Ostrich Ranch

 

Rooster Cogburn Ostrich Ranch is adjacent to Picacho Peak State Park, Arizona.  We had friends visit and because this venue had been recommended I purchased tickets online for the Monster Truck Tour, etc. It is possible to hike the Park and climb the peak via trails, as well as visit the ranch.  In Spring there may be many flowers on the peak. 

It was a lot of fun. In addition to the truck tour there is walking and hand feeding of a variety of critters, and a show consisting of a sheep dog herding a variety of ducks through a water park, etc. Here are a few photos.  Check online for tickets and hours. 

Highly recommended!

Ready to depart in the Monster Truck, with our cheerful guide and driver

Riding through the Ranch

Feeding the Ostriches

Tending to the Eggs

Herding the Ducks

Ducks on the Water Slide

Hand Feeding at the "Goat Kissing Booth"

Feeding Lorakeets

Hand Feeding Rays

(c)2026 N. Retzke

75,000 miles and 446 Blog Posts

Renting a Sprinter Van RV - October 2013

I was recently asked about this blog.  It began as a diary in 2013.

I had decided that I wanted to document our travels, the experience of owning the Roadtrek and also the modifications I made.  I added some of the research I did, too. 

The blog has served its purpose, and has garnered 286,442 views.  

I’ll continue to post from time to time.  Our next trek will only be a few hundred miles, and it may not be posted.  We’re going to visit friends a bit north in Arizona.  

(c) 2026 N. Retzke

75,000 miles with the 210P

 

First Winter Trek, 2013

[1] Updated Jan 16, 2026. 

It has been 12 years and 75,000 miles.  The Roadtrek has been wonderful.  When we purchased it, G said “This will transform our lives” and it has.

We have lived in it while travelling for up to 90 continuous days.  Our treks are usually 2,000-7,000 miles.  Annual miles are about 6,000. We use private campgrounds and always make reservations.  There are more RVs in the US than there are campgrounds to accommodate them.

The vehicle is showing some wear.  I added seat covers because the vinyl was flaking.  It is tempting to have the seats re-upholstered.  Perhaps in the fall when our 2026 explorations are over. 

So, what worked?  I’ve published 394 blog posts about our travels, modifications and repairs. The first was December 2013. There is also a You-Tube channel. 

First, everything in our 2013 model 210P is functional with the exception of the Onan generator which needs some maintenance.  In the “old days”  I’d drop it and do it myself.  That’s no longer an option.  Decisions, decisions!

My most recent modification/improvement was a 200W solar panel.  I used a low-profile method to mount using adhesives. It is easily removeable.  There is no noticeable road/wind noise generated by the panel. The bonds seem good, and I’ve been at speeds up to 75 MPH.

Here are a few maintenance highlights.

Looking at our experience with the Chevrolet Express 3500 chassis with 6.8 L engine, it has been a dream.  The chassis is a 2012.  I’ve used Chevy dealers and independent mechanics for maintenance.  I currently use an independent with quite a lot of experience with this engine and transmission.   Mileage on the highway is generally 15-16 MPG at up to 70 MPH.  That was what I expected and I’m fine with it.  Power is more than adequate and I have towed a trailer for 2,000 miles.   Repairs have not been excessive, IMHO.  Normal wear and tear (oil changes, starting battery, etc. I do replace the engine oil at 5,000 miles or less and I always used full synthetic.).  Most costly repair was the front wheel bearing on the passenger side, which began having issues. We were on a trek, but an independent mechanic in Michigan was able to do a replacement at a fair price.  It did not delay our travel.

The hood latch spring broke. Road salt is an issue.  I purchased and installed a new latch.

While stored in Michigan, thieves broke in and vandalized multiple RVs.  Our catalytic converters were stolen and the O2 sensors damaged.  Insurance replaced these.

I purchased a 2012 Chevrolet 3500 Express Maintenance manual.  This details how to remove the grill, door panels and so on, as well as running gear. 

The Roadtrek coach has been good.  As I stated, everything works.  Most items in the Roadtrek are readily available and so any repairs were done at a minimum cost. I have done a few repairs and upgrades:

1.  Initially I added a small solar panel and converter to charge the coach battery. AC was not available where stored.
2. I replaced the AGM batteries with LiFPO4.
3. I updated the charging system to accommodate the lithium battery.
4.  I replaced the solar with a 200W panel and a much better solar converter.
5.   I added 12VDC and 120VAC heaters for the LiFePO4 battery.  The vehicle has always been stored outside, and we’ve camped as low at -5F. The batteries cannot be charged at temperatures blow 32F.  I included temperature controllers for the heaters.
6. The propane regulator for the outside grill failed twice.  This required closing the main propane valve and prevented propane use while travelling.  I had this regulator removed. Problem permanently solved.
7.  A small relay in the Dometic 3-way refrigerator failed.  This is a readily available automotive relay.  I replaced.
8.  I added a secondary backup camera.
9.  I modified the factory backup camera so I can use it while in drive.  This allows me to monitor the area directly behind the Roadtrek.
10.  I added a 120VAC heated runner and carpet to the coach area.  This heats the floor and is wonderful in cold weather.
11. I've added 120VAC supplemental heat. This conserves propane.  The heat pump works to 32F and it is appreciated in cooler weather.
12. I've added Reflectix to windows.  Glass is not an insulator and because we camp from -5F to 105F interior temperature control is a necessity.  I also have several 12VDC fans to circulate air.  The Air Conditioning cannot keep up if parked in the sun with temperatures of 90F or more.  Summer shade is our friend!
13. I added circulating fans for the Dometic refrigerator. These are installed in the compartment behind the refrigerator.  The Dometic has issues when ambient exceeds 90F or the vehicle is parked in full summer sun.   I have considered a future 12VDC replacement. 
14. All tank indicators work, including the black and the gray.  I’ve posted how I did this.
15.  I replaced Roadtrek’s stiff, green macerator hose with a Thetford slinky.  Really improved tank dumping.
16. I disabled the Isolator, that connects the chassis 12V system to the Coach 12V system.  This became unnecessary when solar was added and could be a draw on the battery. I use a trickle charger to maintain the chassis. battery.  I added a manual switch to connect the chassis and coach 12V DC systems should that ever be necessary. [1] Added this item January 16. 

We have travelled for longer periods, in differing weather so I carry RV anti-freeze, tools and certain spare parts.  These range from fuses and include a spare Thetford slinky and a macerator.  I’d read of macerator failures and these might not be in stock.  So I carry one.  We have never had an issue, but nothing goes into the tanks except water, Dawn for dishes, and human waste.  Vacuum the floors and keep the floor drains closed and covered. I flush the various P-traps and drains frequently.   The slinky is insurance.  A hole in the macerator hose would be a real issue. 

We really like the storage.  The outside tray has been most helpful.  In a class “B” space is always at a premium.  We knew that when we purchased and decided the ability to drive and park nearly everywhere was a reasonable trade-off.  A trip to Santa Fe, NM was a recent example.  We drove downtown and parked in a metered space on the street.

Any additional modifications will take a holistic approach.  For example to replace the Dometic with a 12V refrigerator I'd consider also replacing the Onan generator with Lithium batteries.  Not to run the HVAC and convection oven, but to run the other coach amenities.  I'd need 12 hours of DC power.  Alternately, I could simply replace the generator. I'm skeptical of investing in the existing generator. 

We are currently planning several treks for 2026.

(c) 2026 N. Retzke

Low Profile Solar Installation

 

Profile of Roof Top Solar Panel

Here's a few details about the installation of a 200W semi-rigid solar panel.  This is mounted on T-Track and polycarbonate.  Using aluminum T-Track allows the sliding of bolts onto the track.  These are in-turn used to fasten the panel.

End view of T-Track

I cut the T-Track to the length of the panel and fastened with bolts.  VHB tape was then applied to the track. 

VHB applied to the right track, which is bolted to the solar panel

 After cleaning the fiberglass roof of the Roadtrek with soapy water and alcohol I lifted the assembly to the roof.  The panel was positioned, then the film removed from the VHB tape.  I applied pressure to get a good seal.  I then unbolted the solar panel, and using a rubber mallet I lightly hammered the entire length of the T-Tracks.

I also installed pieces of Eterna-bond tape, overlapping the T-Track.  This is a backup for the VHB tape.

I installed a 24 inch x 48 inch polycarbonate ventilated sheet between the T-Tracks.  This provides a center support for the solar panel.  It is about 1/4 inch thick. 

I then applied sections of polycarbonate panel atop the T-Tracks.  This will further suspend the solar panel above the roof and provide for some ventilation.  Slots were cut in the sheets at the location of the bolts.  Eight sets of bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts fasten the solar panel to the T-Track. I may eliminate the "crush" at the bolts by installing shims.

Side view of solar panel mounting

Here's a view of the Eternabond mounting approach. This was taken prior to dropping the panel onto the T-Track and aligning the bolts. I used Eternabond white, 2 inch.  This is UV resistant:

As can be seen in the photo at the beginning of this post, the panel and mounting is barely visible.  I'm going to give it a few months to "age" in the sun and see how the mounting does, before taking a long trek.

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Note: No AI tools were used to produce this blog. Most photos are unretouched.

(c) 2025 N. Retzke 

 

Solar System Upgrade - Update

My solar system for the Roadtrek has changed. I first installed a solar charger and portable panel in 2014. This was for the AGM lead acid batteries. 

200W Panel on Roof
Wiring incomplete

Then a second panel was added so I could charge both the coach and chassis batteries.  I later replaced the AGM batteries with LiFePO4.  The chronology is included in this post.

Why Solar and LiFePO4 battery combination?

I think this is the ideal approach to keeping the coach battery charged and in best condition.  Lithium batteries include a Battery Management System (BMS) which is electronics that monitors and controls the charging and the balancing of the cells.   The BMS protects from overcharging the batteries and prevents charging in temperatures below 32F.  

A battery has several cells, each of which when fully charged provide 3.65V of output.  Four cells combined in the battery provide 14.6V at full charge, or a nominal 12.8 VDC. Each of these cells will charge at slightly different rates, and one of the duties of the BMS is to control this so that eventually all of the cells will be fully and equally charged, or "balanced".  

Solar provides the energy to accomplish this, unattended.  An alternate approach is to use a 120VAC charger, but that requires a power cord and access to a power outlet.  My system does accommodate AC charging or charging via the alternator.

My Circumstances

My goals have changed since 2014. I have a 3-way refrigerator which can use propane but the controls are 12VDC. Some battery power is necessary for it, as well as lighting, etc. 

Running the refrigerator on 12VDC and conserving propane is a primary goal.  A secondary objective is running battery heaters on 12VDC when the vehicle is disconnected from shore power and in cold weather.

If 12VDC is selected for the refrigerator, the specifications indicate that 175watts or more are required, intermittently.  That's 13.7A at 12.8VDC.  I prefer to use 12VDC while in motion so that I can conserve propane.  Of course I could connect the alternator to the coach, but the solar panel provides DC during stationary periods. 

Before heading out on a trek we turn on the refrigerator and pre-chill it.  I can use 120VAC, but 12VDC is easier.  The solar supports this.

I have no intention of living off the grid, but I might be off of it for a day or two.  I had done some research and it requires about 300W to keep the Roadtrek battery charged when plugged into AC.  Part of this is losses in the Tripplite charger. However, I did add a NOCO 10A charger with LiFePO4 mode.  This more closely matched the battery manufacturer charge specifications.  I can use either the NOCO or the Tripplite.

The battery manufacturer recommends charging at up to 20A. I'd prefer to charge entirely off of solar power at any time the Roadtrek is stationary and unused.

Procedure

This is an entirely "home built" and designed system. I've been using a 100Ah battery, but using newer, smaller LiFePO4 batteries I could install two 100Ah  batteries in the original space.   Real estate in a Class B is precious and I prefer not to use it for batteries. 

My earlier posts delve into the pros and cons of LiFePO4 batteries and compare specifications to lead-acid AGM batteries.  I won't repeat that in this post.

Solar panel output and life decrease under higher temperature conditions.  For that reason, mounting of the solar panel is important.  My 210P has a fiberglass roof and it was tempting to "glue" the panel directly to the roof, as some do.  However, that may increase the panel temperature.  It is better to mount the panel slightly above the roof, but that may increase wind resistance. 

I decided upon a semi-flexible 200W panel, which was the largest that the Roadtrek roof could accommodate. I did not want to drill holes in the fiberglass roof, and that would have necessitated adding reinforcement.  I instead mounted T-track to the roof using 3M VHB tape. The solar panel was mounted atop this.  I also installed polycarbonate plastic panels under the solar panel. This provides a "sandwich" which slightly elevates the panel above the roof, supports the panel and promotes airflow beneath the panel.  The wind resistance is slight.

I routed the solar wiring through the heat pump area, at the rear of the Roadtrek and avoided drilling holes for this in the roof. 

I want to avoid roof leaks too.  I want the operation to be as maintenance free as possible. The Roadtrek 210P has had no leaks and I want that to continue.

The system installed accommodates using the rooftop panel or a portable panel. I installed a jack for a portable panel in one of the rear exterior bays. I can use a portable panel or I can plug-in 12VDC devices and charge them or use them. 

I chose a better quality battery that does not include internal heaters.  LiFePO4 batteries cannot be charged at below 32F.  So, they must be heated in cold weather.  I decided upon using external 120VAC and 12VDC heaters, independently controlled with thermostats.  When it is cold and the coach is on AC power I use 120VAC to heat the battery.  At other times I use 12VDC. When in movement I can supplement the solar and use the alternator to heat the battery.  

The heaters were installed in 2022 and have worked well. 

The battery BMS assures that the battery does not overcharge of over discharge.  I also installed a "Battery Protection" device.  This monitors the battery voltage and automatically disconnects the battery if the voltage decreases to a preset low limit.  The purpose is to disconnect the battery while there remains some useful energy. I can remotely reconnect and provide power if necessary.  It is controlled using my Android phone. 

The solar system charge settings are matched to the battery manufacturers requirements.

The installed system can provide 20A for 5 hours when off of solar (overnight) or about 8A for 12 hours.  On solar it can provide 10 to 15A continuously without draining the battery. This is determined by the solar energy available. The battery can function down to 10.4V, which is the voltage at which the BMS will disconnect the battery. 

Why only one 100Ah battery?

The Lithium battery I installed can be discharged down to 10.4 volts.  However, it better to avoid this so discharging to 11.2 to 11.8 volts is preferred to achieve the design life of the battery.  That's in the range of 5-10% SOC or State of Charge. 

For comparison, an AGM battery shouldn't be discharged below 50% SOC to achieve rated life.

This implies that a 200Ah AGM battery can routinely provide 100Ah of capacity, but more at the sacrifice of battery life. A single 100Ah LiFePO4 battery can provide 90-95Ah with little degradation. So, a single 100Ah lithium battery can nearly replace a 200Ah AGM battery. 

What I could gain using two 100Ah of lithium is about 180-190Ah of useable capacity, which exceeds that of 200Ah AGM batteries. 

In 2022 I surmised that one would work.  I also concluded that improvements in manufacturing and battery technology would allow me to add a second battery, or replace both for less than $400 at some time in the future.  That is where we are, today.

For more on my transition to Lithium see the links to solar on the right.  Here is one such link: 

https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/2022/04/transitioning-to-lifepo-batteries.html

Chronology

2014:  That first panel was a portable 30W solar panel to keep the engine battery charged. I stored the Roadtrek outdoors and there was no AC outlet available.  Then I added a de-sulfating solar controller with portable 50W solar panel for the coach AGM batteries. My goal was simple:  keep the batteries charged when stored outdoors.

2022:  I made a major change in April & May 2022.  I installed a better solar charging system for a larger 200W solar panel, replaced the AGM batteries with LiFePO4, and added both 120VAC and 12VDC heaters for the battery.  Lithium batteries can't be charged at below 32F, so some type of heat is necessary for winter use; my coach battery is located outside the coach interior and is exposed to freezing weather.  I continued to use portable solar panels. 

I also installed a device to protect the battery from low voltage discharge.   I used a setting of 11.80V as an automated cutoff.  This is adjustable and lithium can tolerate deep discharges better than AGM batteries. 

2025: I installed a 200W solar panel on the roof.  Circumstances delayed this, and I decided to delay further until we completed our 2025 mult-month, 7,200 mile trek. 

I created several blog posts about this. 

My goals have changed. I have a 3-way refrigerator which can use propane but the controls are 12VDC. Some battery power is necessary for it, as well as lighting, etc. If 12VDC is selected for the refrigerator, the specifications indicate that 175watts or more are required.  That's  13.5A at 13VDC.  If I use 12VDC while travelling I can conserve propane.  Of course I could connect the alternator to the coach, but the solar panel provides DC during stationary periods. 

Before heading out on a trek we turn on the refrigerator.  I can use 120VAC, but 12VDC is easier.  The solar supports this.

I have no intention of living off the grid, but I might be off of it for a day or two.  I had done some research and it requires about 300W to keep the Roadtrek battery charged when plugged into AC.  Part of this is losses in the Tripplite charger. However, I did switch to a NOCO 10A charger with LiFePO4 mode.  I'd prefer to charge entirely off of solar power at any time the Roadtrek is stationary and unused.

In 2022 I added a Renogy solar charge controller. At the time I was using it with a portable solar panel.  This was an entirely "home built" system of my design.  

When I installed, I intended to put a solar panel on the roof in the future.  It took a while to find the appropriate panel.  Dimensions were the problem. I found a suitable 200W semi-rigid panel.  I also purchased materials to fasten it to the roof, but I wanted it to "stand off".  One issue with solar panels is heat.  This can reduce power output and the life of the panel. On the other hand, I also want to minimize wind resistance.  

I chose metal T-track to fasten to the Roadtrek roof.  The roof of the 210P is fiberglass, and I didn't want to puncture it, or glue the panel directly to it.  Instead, I purchased polycarbonate greenhouse panels, aluminum T-Track, 3M VHB tape and bolts.

The track is attached to the roof using the VHB tape. A polycarbonate panel can be set between the tracks to provide airflow and support the panel if one should lean on it.  The panel is attached at eight points to the track using bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers.

Alternately, the polycarbonate can be installed above the T-Track. This raises the panel about 1/4 inch and aids airflow. 

Circumstances delayed the project.  The earliest I could have done this in Spring 2025, but decided to do it in the fall.  So, here we are!

Solar Panel wiring will be routed through the air conditioner enclosure into the interior of the Roadtrek. I'll add a slot to the cover of the AC, but there will be no penetrations of the roof.   

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Note: No AI tools were used to produce this blog. Most photos are unretouched.

(c) 2025 N. Retzke 

Three Years Later - Medical Update

My posts have become intermittent. 

This is an update and provides an explanation for my intermittent posts, and gaps. In 2022 I became gravely ill.  After diagnosis the doctors said that my illness was inoperable, and that I had at best a 15% chance of survival.  In Spring 2023 it was suggested that I go into hospice, but I declined.

What followed was several years of radiation therapy, chemotherapy and immunotherapy.  It was a very difficult two years.  My life had been upended, and casual travel was completely suspended, with none in 2023.  My 'medical leash' was very, very short.  In that year the 4,000 miles of travel via automobile was for medical purposes.  There were radiation treatments 5 days a week, frequent chemotherapy, then immunotherapy and many hospital stays and several trips to the emergency room. 

More recently I was diagnosed as "stable" and I continue to challenge my condition and attempt to live as normal a life as possible.  So, in 2024 we resumed some short-duration RV travel.  In 2025 we took a much longer trek, both in time and duration.  These trips were accomplished by scheduling certain medical procedures to provide windows of opportunity.  My spouse now does about 20% of the driving, sometimes less.  

The nephrostomy tubes are my primary physical limitation, although my stamina and strength also took a hit.  At one point my body weight was 20% below my "thin" weight.  Tube flush occur daily, and wound care is a regular routine, usually every other week.  These can performed at home or on the road, unless there are issues such as infection.  I carry a large plastic bin with the necessary medical supplies, some of which are not readily available at the pharmacy. Because of this, and to accommodate other procedures I do have a medical leash, and there is always the possibility of unforeseen problems including tube failure, kidney failure, infection etc. Discomfiture is a constant companion but is the least of my concerns.  Plans for travel include an abort if there are medical issues.  While air travel is a possibility, I have a compromised immune system and airplanes are a petri dish I prefer to avoid.   That does restrict travel opportunities.  I have a procedure coming up in a few weeks; this is a regular nephrostomy replacement, which occurs every few months.  Then CT and MRI scans, blood work, etc.  Medications can be filled while on the road, so that has never been an impediment.  I am on minimal medications.  An iron supplement, blood pressure medication to protect the kidneys and vitamins.  That's it.  I avoid paid meds.  I prefer the awareness of what's going on with my body.

Typical Nephrostomy Wound Care Bandage

However, while I've had a miraculous recovery, I am not healed.  I am in continuous decline.   "Stable" does not mean level. Tests in October may determine how serious that decline is. There was an expression "One foot in the grave" and I now more completely understand the meaning. 

Nevertheless, we continue to plan for a future, although it is indeterminate.   In fact, I'm quite fortunate.  According to family history, I've lived longer than might be expected.  Keeping all of this in mind we are beginning a patio project, which will take place in October, and we are in the midst of some drainage improvements on the property.  We do have some travel ideas for 2026, but nothing concrete.  That's the way it has been since 2022.  We discuss ideas, but plans are tenuous.   I do have a 200W solar panel to install on the Roadtrek. This will occur when the monsoon season ends. I don't think farther into the future than 6 months. 

I've made other changes, too.  My formal writing gig has ended.  That's another subject altogether and the reasons were not only medical.  Let me simply state that recent events, both political and otherwise have made it impossible for me to remain silent and "non-political".

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Note: No AI tools were used to produce this blog. Most photos are unretouched.

(c) 2025 N. Retzke 

2025 Route Total 7,279 Miles

This year we did a much longer trek, which made up for 2023 which was a year in which we did no trekking.  This year we travelled from Arizona east, then headed northwest to the eastern shore of Lake Michigan.  After a longer stop in that area we continued to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, returned to the eastern shore.  We eventually returned to our starting point via a more direct route.   The total distance was 7,279 miles and the duration was 81 days.

Several factors determine our choice of routes.  Weather is one. RV campgrounds and resorts is another.  Interesting things to do and see is a factor.  We tend to avoid certain cities because of traffic or construction.  We also avoid areas where crime can be an issue, but many campgrounds are gated and with someone on site 24/7. 

We do prefer interstate highways, but we've travelled portions of old US Route 66, and some of the historic trails in Colorado.   Be aware, some of these are narrow highways with no median and no shoulder. 

Route for 7,279 miles trek

The trip included stays at 19 different locations.  This is the longest annual trek we've ever done.  Our first was in 2013.  Typical treks are about 2,500 to 4,000 miles.

Earlier posts provide some of the details for this trek.  A segment of 1,956 miles was planned using an AI tool and insights gained are in an earlier post.  

We have been back for 14 days and I'm doing some work on the Roadtrek,  A larger solar panel is ready for installation, as soon as the Monsoon season ends. Ever the optimists, we have begun to discuss next year!

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Note: No AI tools were used to produce this blog, although one was used for a segment of the route depicted. Most photos are unretouched.

(c) 2025 N. Retzke