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| Yakima Bike Carrier - No Rust after 10 years |
The photo above is not directly related to the issue with the tire carrier finish. But this is the best place to put it on the blog. I added this photo of the bike rack on the rear of the Roadtrek. It is a Yakima "KingPin 4" which can accommodate up to four bicycles. We normally travel with two.
The Yakima shows no rust, after 10 years. It has a powdered finish and Yakima obviously does a great job. No rust of any kind on this bike carrier after about 11 years!
I purchased this adapter in 2006 for our Malibu Maxx and use it on both vehicles. I added a hitch adapter to match the hitch on the 210P to the 1-1/4" hitch on the bike rack. This moved the rack out.
As shown in the photo, I can open the right rear door of the Roadtrek with the rack on the Roadtrek. Very convenient.
Comments March 1, 2017:
- A reader suggested I consider using "Corroseal" which is a rust inhibitor. Thanks for the tip, Wanda! "Corroseal® is a water based rust converter combined with a non pigmented high quality latex metal primer. The converter segments turn rust into a barrier layer of black non rusting magnetite. The metal primer acts as a bonding agent for oil-based intermediate and finish coatings of epoxy, enamel, acrylic, polyurethane and moisture-cured urethane...." http://www.corroseal.com/technical/technicaldata.aspx
- I used Rust-Oleum® Stops Rust® Rusty Metal Primer. According to the manufacturer this "stops rust and prevents corrosion. Apply to heavily rusted metal (use Rust-Oleum® Stops Rust® Clean Metal Primer on clean or lightly rusted metal). Bonds tightly to rust to form a surface top coats can adhere to."
The surface of the metal tire carrier on my 210P began to show some distress about two years after purchase. Paint flaked off to show rust underneath. This became quite extensive by the third year.
I really don't know what grade of steel, or surface finishing was used. It appears that there was no metal primer, but that is difficult to determine. Let's just say that the black paint and the primer were identical, because the paint flakes were black throughout, with rusty metal beneath.
I prepared the surface by cleaning with mineral spirits. I then used a stiff wire brush and a wire wheel to remove as much loose or flaking paint as possible, and also removed as much surface rust as I could. However, it would take a lot of grinding to get to polished metal. I also did not want to disassemble the unit.
Here's what it looked like after the first pass of cleaning. The first was by hand with a stiff wire brush, to remove as much loose paint as possible:
Here is how it looked after using the wire wheel with a 3/8 drill and before cleaning. Soon I'll be applying a primer:
After doing this I cleaned the surface again with mineral spirits, allowed to dry and then with a tack cloth. I did have to open it and flip it several times, and I used a wooden shim to keep it from closing (going to a 90 degree position).
I wanted to assure that all loose rust and paint had been removed. I decided against using a spray primer, choosing a brush-on "Rusty metal primer". I painted it partially on a table, let that dry overnight and then completed by sliding it partially into the center hitch of the Roadtrek:
I let it dry in the horizontal position, then closed it partially and that allowed me to paint other areas. I used a wooden shim to hold the hitch in position (shim removed for this photo):
I used brush-on black enamel as the final coat of paint. I used a shim to hold the rack in the partially dropped position. The arrow in the photo points to the shim, which is a piece of scrap with partially black surface:
Here's the finished tire rack. I didn't put a finish coat on the section that slides into the receiver; it will simply be scraped off when inserting it:
While I was at it, I painted the hitch parts on the Roadtrek that were showing some rust. Same procedure as the rack; clean, wire brush, prime and then finish coat.
We'll see how well this does. I hope it slows the rust down.
