Roadtrek Wheel Bearing Issue

 

210P on the Lift

We're on a 6,000 mile trek in the U.S. and had just returned from a 1,000 mile leg to Michigan's UP when I noticed a rumble in the front end of the vehicle. After driving for a couple of short distance errands I concluded it might be a front wheel bearing issue.  I posted about this on September 1, 2025.

Now, I've used Chevy dealers for most of my chassis repairs but I've had two tell me they couldn't easily accommodate this vehicle.  I switched to GMC and independent garages.  I was fortunate that there was an independent who could accommodate me.  As a backup there was a GMC dealer who could do the work, about 18 miles away.  In 2013 when we were looking for a Class B RV the Chevy chassis was attractive; there are literally thousands of service shops in North America.  At the time there were about 200 certified Mercedes shops for the "Blutec" engine. That was a factor in the selection.

The problem occurred over the Labor Day Holiday weekend and that made it necessary to make an appointment with the shop on Tuesday.  They fit me in on Thursday and after a test drive it was decided it was most likely the front wheel bearing on the passenger side. On the lift they determined there was excess play, although the steering components etc. were OK.  They located a bearing at a distributor and said they would work on it as soon as the part arrived.  I took the opportunity to have the tires rotated. Three hours later I received a text message stating it was complete.

We've been doing some local driving to verify that everything is okay.  Currently packing and preparing to shut down the Caliber for the winter. We'll be headed west tomorrow morning. 

Old Wheel Bearing

Another view - notice anything missing?

Old Bearing side view

Wheel with old Bearing

With New Bearing (cover removed)

Note: No AI tools were used to produce this blog. Most photos are unretouched.

(c) 2025 N. Retzke

Plumbing Vent Caps - Travel Trailer

 

Summer Campsite

Plumbing Vent Cap Replacements 

We returned to our summer campsite which includes our "cabin", a travel trailer at a campground in MI.  On inspection I decided I'll be doing some repairs and preventative maintenance. Of particular interest is the roof, which needs a good cleaning and to which I may apply a roof sealant this year.

But first, a few other minor repairs. This post is about the plumbing vent caps.

After unloading we walked to the shoreline and enjoyed a sunset. I'll do the roof work on a cloudy day.

Sunset on Lake Michigan

We get partial shade because we are under a tree.  However, that does mess up the roof a bit, and the two plumbing vent caps showed signs of failure.  LOL.

Old Plumbing Vent Cap

I replaced both vent caps.  I used two types. I'm not recommending or promoting either cap.  I suggest one do additional research. I've included a link to one of the manufacturer's videos in the post. 

One cap is an inexpensive Camco universal replacement.  I removed the one screw holding the old cap in place, pulled it off and cut off the stabs which joined the base to the cap.  A razor knife did it.  This was a quick and easy replacement.  I also used some Dicor non-sag lap sealant to fill a crack which was forming in the existing lap sealant.

I use a plastic putty knife to remove old lap sealant.  I am concerned about damaging the existing membrane roof by using a steel scraper.  I buy 2" wide putty knifes in a two-pack at Ace. 

Here's a photo from another of my RV roof projects, showing a putty knife in action:

Using a 2 inch plastic putty knife to remove lap sealant

Camco Universal Vent Cap Replacement

The second cap was replaced with a Lippert Components 389381 360 Siphon Roof Vent Cap - White (Gen 2).   This is significantly more costly than the Camco universal replacement.

The Lippert has several different installation methods.  One method allows the reuse of the existing base. Another method replaces the entire vent cap.

After removing the second, existing vent cap I decided to retain the base.  In other words, I didn't have to scrape all of that old lap sealant off and remove the base.  I chose to retain the old based because the roof flange was of a larger diameter than the new base.  I also did a test fit of the entire cap and decided I didn't want to hacksaw the 2-3/8 diameter vent pipe, which projected too far above the roof for the Lippert.  To do the partial replacement required some glue.  I used Goop and with a rock on the cap, I let it set overnight under pressure.  The instructions for this approach was included with the Lippert I purchased. After the glue set, I applied "Eternabond" tape over the seam, for good measure.

Lippert Vent cap replacement - using old base.

Lippert Components

The Lippert claims to have better siphoning because of its patented design.  I'm curious about this, which is why I purchased one......It may be an improvement at our winter location and I want to see how it performs.  However, the cost is a consideration.

For more on the Lippert, here is a promotional video which shows how it works:

Lippert 360 Promotional Video

Original Material: http://Roadtrek210.blogspot.com