After partial removal of chalking or "oxidation" - Never do this in the sun! I'll do another buff, a wash and final wax tomorrow |
Fiberglass will get a white surface which blocks the gel coat or paint color. This happens on boats as well as RVs. RV wax residue will whiten in the sun. Each year it is a good idea to remove any old wax residue, chalking and oxidation. On fiberglass it is important to protect the gel-coat. Proper cleaning and waxing is important.
My 210P has a fiberglass coach body, and I'm please to say that it has not experienced a chalking issue.
However, others do experience this. Annual washing and waxing can reduce this problem. However, for RVs that spend a lot of time in the hot sun, chalking may occur even if the rig is cleaned and waxed annually.
I also use a variety of solar shades, I've posted three photos. These not only reduce interior temperatures, they also protect the finish. We reduce heat gain by using Reflectix in windows, too. In particular that large front windshield.
The above photo shows the rear of a large 5th wheel which is in the Arizona sun for long periods of time. The photo shows the rear after a partial buffing with several oxidation removers. I apply a Meguiar's product called "Oxidation Remover". I apply with an electric buffer or a small sponge for tight areas. I then buff. I have also used a spray on product called "EternaClean". However, I prefer the Meguiar's. Meguiar also makes "Cleaner-wax" and "Pure Wax" products which are use for final waxing. I've also used those on RVs.
A couple of products - This is not an endorsement! |
I apply the Meguiar's with an electric buffer, or sponge. I then polish by hand using a clean, soft cotton cloth. Note that one should always follow the manufacturer's instructions and test any product on a small area before proceeding. Never apply in sun!
When possible, if the surface is relatively flat, I use an electric, hand-held buffer to apply the Meguiar's, using the appropriate applicator pad. This is much faster than applying by hand. There are a range of pads to use. I use an "applicator pad" to apply. I then hand polish to knock off any excess product and get a sheen. After that I do a final polish with the electric buffer and a cotton cloth pad:
Hand held electric buffer-applicator |
Using the electric buffer to apply the "Oxidation Remover" - Always in the shade! |
After finishing the oxidation removal steps, I then use a "Cleaner Wax" to touch up and a "Pure Wax" product to give a high gloss and a protective surface. These can be applied by hand and buffed out with the electric buffer-applicator.
A wash and a wax and voila' I'm done.
Oxidation removed, washed and then waxed |
Using a Solar Sail to shield the rig, reduce interior temperature and protect the finish
The RV in the photo is under a shelter to protect it from the sun. The rear has a removeable "home-made" solar sail because the rear of the 5th wheel faces west and gets a lot of afternoon sun. This RV was purchased with no rear windows. That was deliberate.
I also use a small solar shade for the Roadtrek, etc:
Koolaroo Sun Shade - Reducing the interior temp at a very sunny site with full afternoon sun. Note the Reflectix in the windows |
Blocking the Afternoon sun in MI- I handmade and painted Koolaroo Fabric for the slide |
5th wheel sun shade- Koolaroo Fabric which I cut and painted to mimic Montana Fossils |
Original material http://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/