Care of the Fiberglass on our Heartland Caliber

 

Fiberglass Cap -  dull and needing a good waxing  in the Spring
Even after several years of cleaning and polishing

Restoring the Fiberglass on our Heartland Caliber

Our "summer" lily pad is a Heartland Caliber travel trailer.  We purchased it used, and apparently the previous owner didn't keep up with the weathering of the fiberglass nose, or "cap".  As a consequence the gel coat had degraded.  This is not uncommon.

I've spent several years removing oxidation, polishing and waxing using Meguiar products.  Each year the fiberglass becomes more even in color with less streaking.  I compare the most recent "after" to the photos the year we purchased and I think the cap is now in better condition than when purchased. This post is about the specific steps I took this year after a couple of years of using "Oxidation Remover", polish and wax. Yes, these are different products, each has a purpose and I've used four different products in succession each year for several years. 

Close-up of Area before using Oxidation Remover
Old wax and some oxidation

Mottled Surface 2 years later - It had been cleaned and waxed, but the 
area the "For Sale" sign was taped is still apparent.
Photo in bright afternoon sun

Same Area -  After use of oxidation remover, but before any polish or wax
This is after several years of such cleaning
Color is "dull" in part because of solid overcast and the absence 
of any polish or wax. 

Each spring I clean and wax the entire area of the fiberglass nose cap.  I do this before it becomes too hot so I have better control over the evaporation and drying of the products.  These cannot be applied in full sun on hot surfaces. Of course, I'm more comfortable in the shade, too. This is an annual chore and in my opinion it is a necessary one for a rig such as this which is exposed to the weather 12 months of the year. Winters are harsh, and the afternoon sun is relentless because the Caliber is facing southwest.

I'm including a short video about the cleaning and polishing this year. There is an earlier post about the care of the Redwood Cypress.

Products Used and "Why?":

I began using Meguiar's products some years ago for the care of several fiberglass boats.  I've continued to use it, and today I use it on a Redwood Cypress and the Heartland Caliber.  These products can be purchased individually or in a kit.  I have used oxidation remover on the gel coat of fiberglass, including the Caliber. The "gel coat" is a translucent or colored gel fiberglass resin that is applied to the surface of fiberglass, such as the nose cap of the Caliber. That gray coloration of my Caliber is the gel coat, which is thin. When new it has a very high gloss surface, but that surface must be protected. If it isn't it will become dull, porous and pitted.

When a fiberglass gel coat becomes damaged it may require multiple applications of oxidation remover to restore it. In extreme cases wet sanding may be necessary, but I leave that to professionals. The gel coat is thin and is measured in mils. One mil is 1/1000 of an inch in thickness. That gel coat is usually between 15-20 mils thick (0.015-0.020”), or about 1/64 of an inch in thickness.  In no time at all an electric sander can easily remove the gel coat!

Take off too much gel coat or sand through the gel coat will expose the under surface of the fiberglass.  That under surface will be a pale yellow or some other unattractive color. 

I have never used oxidation remover on painted surfaces, and I won't do that.  It is abrasive. However, I have used it on the flat rear surface of the Redwood, which is an unusual product and is not the typical high polish fiberglass. On the Redwood the oxidation remover successfully stripped old wax and oxidation in a single pass, in preparation for polish and wax. Generally, polishes are less protective than waxes, which is why I apply a wax. A polish may provide a short-term gloss, but not much else. 

On the Caliber it seemed wax had been applied over the oxidation and over older wax. This contributed to the "shades of gray", mottled appearance and streaking.  Stripping and cleaning down to the fiberglass was an essential step. After that it was imperative to apply wax protection.  It took several years to get the appearance to where I was satisfied.  

In previous years for the fiberglass nose of the Caliber I have applied Meguiar's "Oxidation Remover (#49)" as a first step. The nose was very dull, was oxidized and actually several shades of gray. Oxidation Remover is a heavy duty cleaner. Always read and follow the manufacturer's directions for this and any abrasive product. 

This year, because of the improved condition achieved by several years of annual cleaning and waxing it was not necessary to use the Oxidation Remover - success!  I  first washed thoroughly and then I used the following products in succession over several consecutive mornings. The first two are essential. I was aware that weather might not cooperate for several consecutive days. As a consequence, "High Gloss Polish" is a necessity to protect the surface after using "Cleaner Wax". I consider "Pure Wax" to be something that could be applied later. However, I was able to clean and apply the following products in quick succession this year:

• Meguiar's Cleaner Wax (#50) 
• Meguiar's High Gloss Polish (#45) 
• Meguiar's Pure Wax (#56) 

Each of the products has a specific purpose:

• Oxidation Remover: Restores the original color of older fiberglass gel coat surfaces by effectively removing surface degradation.
• Cleaner Wax: non-abrasive, removes light oxidation and provides UV protection.
• High Gloss Polish: restore optimal gloss on gel coat and fiberglass surfaces.
• Pure Wax: enhanced gloss and durable protection.

Application Method:

This work is to be done in the shade. However, my rigs are outdoors. I usually pick a partly cloudy day. The sun rises from the rear of the Caliber and moves overhead to the front, which is pointed southwest.  There are several large trees to the east, so I get partial shade early until about 11:00am.  As a consequence I have limited time to work on the fiberglass. Furthermore, the dew point is about 65F and with cool nighttime temperatures, the fiberglass is at the dewpoint in the morning.  That delays drying and the product should be applied to a clean and dry surface.

Morning Dew

I begin with a wash with warm, soapy water at about 8:00am as the temperatures rise above the dew point; this facilitates evaporation. I rinse with clean water and allow to drain for a few minutes. I then wipe the entire surface with a large micro-fiber cloth, drying the surface.  While the last of the water evaporates I set up a ladder and get the materials, set up the extension cord, put the applicator and soft polish buffer on the electric orbital buffers. I then climb on the roof and begin there, and once the area I can reach from the roof is complete I then go the the front and work my way all the way down.  I apply product to a small area, then buff, gradually covering the entire surface. Setup, the complete application of any one product, buffing and clean-up requires about 3 hours. 

I switch applicators as I move from product to product and I frequently inspect the applicators to assure that product is properly spread on the surface, and that the polishing buffer is sufficiently soft and clean.

When I first began doing this, I used one electric orbital buffer. However, because of time restraints I now use two.  It also is easier as I don't have to switch from applicator to polisher cloths.  It is imperative to complete application and polishing before the sun rises and heats the fiberglass.  I have a cheap no-name Chinese buffer and a Black & Decker. I use the cheap one as an applicator and for polishing I use the more costly B&D which has a handle and a grip.  That works better for polishing which requires more effort.

Black and Decker Random Orbital Polisher - Used for Polishing

Chinese No-Name Polisher - Used For Product Application

In addition to the two 6 inch circular electric buffer/polishers I use a soft cloth. To apply product in tight areas (such as behind the propane tanks, or along edges) I use Meguiar's sponge applicators.  These can be cleaned and re-used. 

Following manufacturer's directions I apply the product and allow to glaze if that is the recommendation.  I then buff lightly by hand with a soft cloth and polish using the second electric buffer. Using oxidation remover, cleaner wax and polishing it is important to follow manufacturer's directions and recommendations. It is important that no residue is left behind. Failure to do this can result in wax being applied over dirt or glazed wax in the future. This can contribute to streaking and uneven appearance.. 

Proper polishing is most important with the final step "Pure Wax (#56)". 

Cleaner Wax and Polish - Steps 2 & 3 of a 4-step process

Step 4 - Pure Wax - Only use on very clean surface
Otherwise, it will trap old wax, dirt and so on under the wax

When complete I look for streaking, etc. in bright sun. I check the integrity of the surface.  I spray with water and observe how the water beads and flows by gravity.  A porous or rough surface will inhibit water flow and beading.

Beading of water - After completion

Here's a short video:

Original Material: Roadtrek210.Blogspot.com (c) 2021

Dealing with Chalking-Oxidation - Protect the surfaces

 

After partial removal of chalking or "oxidation" - Never do this in the sun!
I'll do another buff, a wash and final wax tomorrow

Fiberglass will get a white surface which blocks the gel coat or paint color.  This happens on boats as well as RVs.  RV wax residue will whiten in the sun.  Each year it is a good idea to remove any old wax residue, chalking and oxidation.  On fiberglass it is important to protect the gel-coat.  Proper cleaning and waxing is important. 

My 210P has a fiberglass coach body, and I'm please to say that it has not experienced a chalking issue.

However, others do experience this.  Annual washing and waxing can reduce this problem.  However, for RVs that spend a lot of time in the hot sun, chalking may occur even if the rig is cleaned and waxed annually.

I also use a variety of solar shades, I've posted three photos.  These not only reduce interior temperatures, they also protect the finish.  We reduce heat gain by using Reflectix in windows, too.  In particular that large front windshield.

The above photo shows the rear of a large 5th wheel which is in the Arizona sun for long periods of time.  The photo shows the rear after a partial buffing with several oxidation removers.  I apply a Meguiar's product called "Oxidation Remover".  I apply with an electric buffer or a small sponge for tight areas.  I then buff.  I have also used a spray on product called "EternaClean".  However, I prefer the Meguiar's.   Meguiar also makes "Cleaner-wax" and "Pure Wax" products which are use for final waxing.  I've also used those on RVs. 

A couple of products - This is not an endorsement!

I apply the Meguiar's with an electric buffer, or sponge. I then polish by hand using a clean, soft cotton cloth. Note that one should always follow the manufacturer's instructions and test any product on a small area before proceeding. Never apply in sun!

When possible, if the surface is relatively flat, I use an electric, hand-held buffer to apply the Meguiar's, using the appropriate applicator pad.   This is much faster than applying by hand.  There are a range of pads to use. I use an "applicator pad" to apply. I then hand polish to knock off any excess product and get a sheen.  After that I do a final polish with the electric buffer and a cotton cloth pad:

Hand held electric buffer-applicator

Using the electric buffer to apply the "Oxidation Remover" - Always in the shade!

After finishing the oxidation removal steps, I then use a "Cleaner Wax" to touch up and a "Pure Wax" product to give a high gloss and a protective surface.  These can be applied by hand and buffed out with the electric buffer-applicator.

A wash and a wax and voila' I'm done.  

Oxidation removed, washed and then waxed

Using a Solar Sail to shield the rig, reduce interior temperature and protect the finish

The RV in the photo is under a shelter to protect it from the sun. The rear has a removeable "home-made" solar sail because the rear of the 5th wheel faces west and gets a lot of afternoon sun.  This RV was purchased with no rear windows.  That was deliberate. 

I also use a small solar shade for the Roadtrek, etc:

Koolaroo Sun Shade - Reducing the interior temp at a very sunny site with full afternoon sun. Note the Reflectix in the windows

Blocking the Afternoon sun in MI- I handmade and painted Koolaroo Fabric for the slide

5th wheel sun shade- Koolaroo Fabric which I cut and painted to mimic Montana Fossils

Original material http://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/