Roadtrek Wheel Bearing Issue

 

210P on the Lift

We're on a 6,000 mile trek in the U.S. and had just returned from a 1,000 mile leg to Michigan's UP when I noticed a rumble in the front end of the vehicle. After driving for a couple of short distance errands I concluded it might be a front wheel bearing issue.  I posted about this on September 1, 2025.

Now, I've used Chevy dealers for most of my chassis repairs but I've had two tell me they couldn't easily accommodate this vehicle.  I switched to GMC and independent garages.  I was fortunate that there was an independent who could accommodate me.  As a backup there was a GMC dealer who could do the work, about 18 miles away.  In 2013 when we were looking for a Class B RV the Chevy chassis was attractive; there are literally thousands of service shops in North America.  At the time there were about 200 certified Mercedes shops for the "Blutec" engine. That was a factor in the selection.

The problem occurred over the Labor Day Holiday weekend and that made it necessary to make an appointment with the shop on Tuesday.  They fit me in on Thursday and after a test drive it was decided it was most likely the front wheel bearing on the passenger side. On the lift they determined there was excess play, although the steering components etc. were OK.  They located a bearing at a distributor and said they would work on it as soon as the part arrived.  I took the opportunity to have the tires rotated. Three hours later I received a text message stating it was complete.

We've been doing some local driving to verify that everything is okay.  Currently packing and preparing to shut down the Caliber for the winter. We'll be headed west tomorrow morning. 

Old Wheel Bearing

Another view - notice anything missing?

Old Bearing side view

Wheel with old Bearing

With New Bearing (cover removed)

Note: No AI tools were used to produce this blog. Most photos are unretouched.

(c) 2025 N. Retzke

Oops, Travel Delayed by Mechanical RV Issue

Enjoying the refurbished deck

We've had a wonderful trek and I have at least two more blogs about that.  However, our return to Arizona has been delayed by an issue with the Roadtrek chassis.  I think it may be a front wheel bearing.  Another possibility would be a dragging brake pad.  It's on a Chevrolet 3500 chassis (2012) so we have a GMC truck repair nearby as well as a recommended independent mechanic.

We became aware of the issue over the Labor Day holiday weekend.  I've got an appointment for the 9th and I'll speak to the independent mechanic on Tuesday.  

I'm not an automobile mechanic and when young I missed that great American adventure of buying and tuning or "hot rodding" a car. I simply didn't have the free change to do that. As a consequence, I have limited "hands on" repair experience.

However, mechanical ability, other repair skills and critical thinking can make up for this.  There are audible warnings and slight vibration present.  

We did have a busy holiday weekend with visitors and some celebrating.  We had planned on packing on Tuesday but that is not to be.  G is a bit frustrated; she was mentally prepared for the return.  

We luckily have access to a loaner auto.  So, there is minor inconvenience and delay, but nothing really serious to contend with.  I was fortunate.  1) Only a couple of weeks ago we were in the UP of Michigan.  It could have occurred then. 2) I had come up with a route and we had agreed on itinerary but I became aware of this problem one day before I made campground reservations. 3) It could have occurred while we were actually travelling on our 2,000 return route. 

So, while we spend our final days here, we watch the butterflies, nuthatches, woodpeckers and other birds.  The Piney Squirrels and Chipmunks are busy collecting for the winter and the squirrels in particular sit in the trees above, scolding us!

Life at Weko Beach

Note: No AI tools were used to produce this blog. Most photos are unretouched.

(c) 2025 N. Retzke

Third Seat Repair in the Roadtrek 210P

Third Seat after Repair

I discovered a problem with the third seat of our 2013 210P.  It wasn't obvious  and came to my attention when it began to shift the side fabric material of the coach.  The seat is a complicated wooden structure which houses the Suburban Propane Furnace.

I removed the rear cushion and lifted the bottom cushion out of the way. This was an easy task; the bottom cushion in my Roadtrek is on a special hinge and the rear lifts out of position. After doing this I discovered that two screws in the wooden support structure had given way, and a thin side member had split at a joint.  That allowed the entire seat base to tip forward. This problem occurred because the seat is on a cantilevered base. That overhang puts a lot of stress on some of the wooden base components.

This structure is also compromised because the Suburban furnace goes through the base from left side to right side.  You can see the furnace in the photos.  All of the weight of a passenger is on the cantilever front which is only partly supported on the front, and the rear with two screws.

Swinging the base cushion forward (it is on a special hinge) exposed the top of the seat base. I then removed the screws holding the top surface of the wooden seat base. That revealed the entire problem.

The wooden support had pulled free of the two screws that attach it to the rear. That allowed the entire seat to slip forward about 5/8 inch.

Rear wooden attachment support pulled free.

This is how far the seat slid forward.  The failure of the rear attachment put additional stress
on the side bracket, and those screws had shifted, too.

I decided to screw and glue the wooden supports back in place. I could not access the heads of the  two rear screws unless I completely removed the seat base. I decided not to do that.



Instead I added two aluminum "L" brackets from rear to front. This would provide additional support. I had the light weight aluminum angle, screws and "gorilla glue" in my spare parts, so this repair cost nothing additional out of pocket.  

I did it in six steps:

1. Glue rear support and clamp with vice-grips overnight.
2. Glue left rear support and clamp with vice grips.
3. Cut two pieces of light weight aluminum angle using a small hack saw.
4. Raise the seat base by wedging a wonder-bar on a piece of carpet.
5. Trim the left angle so it could be mounted from above. 
6. Re-assemble the seat stop and put the cushions back in place.

Fabricated aluminum bracket prior to installation.

Rear support screwed and glued after removing clamp

Left support panel glued and clamped with vice-grip to dry

I drilled and installed the aluminum angles, one on the left and one on the right.I decided that cutting an indentation for the left would not be necessary.  

 

Two aluminum angles installed from rear to front
The left was screwed from the top

The right screwed from the side

Seat fully reassembled

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Oops, Had an exterior hinge latch failure and repair.

Discounting the shakedown issues, after 19,000+ miles we experienced a Roadtrek failure.

One of the door catches which holds a rear compartment door in the open position wouldn't spring shut. The catch is apparently SS, but this spring was a lower grade of steel. Interesting, because the failure only occurred on one of two hinges. This highlights the problems all companies face with suppliers. On the failed catch the spring rusted through.

I was able to do some research on the internet and found what appeared to be the identical hinge. I purchased two for $7.49 plus shipping and tax. [Current price is $7.69 per pair]. On receipt the new hinge looked to be a perfect fit, with identical dimensions. I drilled out the pop rivets that held it in place. I was pleased to see that RT had installed a thin layer of silicone seal behind the hinge. Great detail, guys! I applied a thin layer of 30 year silicone and attached the new hinge with 3/16 inch dia. aluminum pop-rivets, which matched the old. Voila' all good! And, I've got a spare hinge for the other side of my 210P.

New Latch, Closed

New Latch, Open

Old Latch after removal, showing rusted spring