Adding a Vent Fan to the Travel Trailer

Our travel trailer, which is one of our lily pads, has a vent in the bedroom, but no fan. We get afternoon sun and decided we'd like a roof fan in that room. The vent lid was showing some fatigue and so I decided to:

1. Replace the vent lid.
2. Add a vent cover so we can leave the vent lid open when the TT is unattended. This also affords additional protection to the lid, keeps birds from moving in, etc.
3. Add a fan inside the existing vent. I chose a fan which is rated 188CFM and  designed to retrofit within an existing 14 x 14 housing. 

I have three vents, so I needed three vent lids and three covers to replace all.

I found replacement vent lids for about $19 each delivered so I purchased enough to do all three vent lids. (I purchased two sets of two because the price was better than buying three singles. So I now have a spare which I can give to a neighbor).

I also purchased three vent covers; two white and one smoke tint for about $28 each. I purchased one fan kit for the existing vent. The fan was about $59.

Total price each set of vent lid and vent cover = $47 each set.
Vent fan = $58.50
Labor: $0 (I'm free)
Wire, etc $0, from my hardware box.

The vent lid replacement was very easy. I did need G inside to open and close it on request for testing of the new one. Tools were a phillips screwdriver and a needle nose pliers. To remove the lid I removed the crank handle, the inside screen and the two screws holding the mechanism in place. That allowed me to open it fully from the roof and slide the mechanism off of the old lid. I put the mechanism aside, bent the tabs which held the vent lid in place and slid the old lid off of the full width hinge.  I took the opportunity to clean the existing gasket and the screen.

The new lid went on in the reverse fashion. I slid it on and bent the tabs to keep it in place on the hinge. I then went inside the trailer and inserted the mechanism into the mating connector and screwed it in place. Then the screen went back and is held in place with two screws. Finally the crank handle was re-attached.   Time to do this per vent lid was less than 30 minutes.

Each vent cover went on in about 20-30 minutes.

Clean up about 30 minutes.

The  fan took a while because I had to drill an opening for two wires (I provided two #18 AWG per the fan instructions). I pulled the wires from an existing fixture to the fan location. I attached to the power of an existing light fixture for source of 12VDC. The fixture has two 1141 incandescent bulbs which draw a total of 3.06A. The fan draws 2.2A, I understand. With the dual fixture off, this circuit will draw less than the current draw of the bulbs. I may change this lighting fixture to LED bulbs to keep the current near the original 3A. The bedroom has three fixtures total with (4) 1141 12V bulbs, which is a total lighting load of 6.12A.

The fan is a 5 speed 3-forward and 2-reverse and is very quiet at the low and medium settings. We're quite pleased with it. 

Fan in box

Out of the box - CAUTION don't hang the fan from the wires during installation. According to the manufacturer doing so will damage the fan. 

Typical roof vent with the old vent lid removed. Note the mechanism hanging so  could remove the lid. I've cleaned the lid gasket. 

New vent lid installed

Wiring of existing lighting fixture -this will also supply the fan. CAUTION - make certain DC power is off before working on wiring. Note the interior of the vent lid is completely removed, so I could drill a hole and pull the new wires in the ceiling to the fan location. 

After drilling a hole I fished the new wiring through, attached it to the existing lighting. The meter is to verify polarity before wiring the fan. I did install a split grommet to protect the wiring where it goes through the thin aluminum sidewall of the opening. 

New fan completely installed. It went in place of the existing crank arm and the old screen. Most difficult part was aligning the new crank handle system to the existing lid mechanism while holding it up. G helped. The frame is the existing frame. CAUTION - Don't hang the fan from the wiring during installation. The manufacturer says that will damage the fan. 

Aligning the vent cover with the vent. Then after placing the cover in place I  marked the location of the brackets on the roof. No holes are required in the roof. The markings are to indicate where along the vent perimeter to place the brackets. 

Four brackets installed and ready to place the vent cover in position. This is before cleaning the old gasket.

Close up of cover bracket. It is held in place with a 3/16 screw with washer, lockwasher and nut. The arrow points to the alignment mark I made when I positioned the cover over the closed vent. The mark indicates where to place the bracket before drilling the hole in the side of the vent frame. 

Smoke vent cover over the new vent lid and fan

White vent cover over a new vent lid. I installed a total of three replacement vent lids and two vent covers.

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Keeping cool in summer heat

Well, it is that time of year again, and the sun is beating down on some of us. One challenge is to keep cool, and keep that refrigerator running. A couple of years ago we were trekking in TX and hit 103F heat. We really weren't prepared.

We've done a few things to help us. Some are the same things others have done and based on my observation, some are not.  Of course, one thing is to park in the shade if possible. However that may be easier said than done. So if we have to park in full sun, then what? How to keep our Roadtrek from becoming a sauna?  The Duo-Therm Cool Cat heat pump works really well, but it does need some help when the sun is bearing down upon the front of the RT.

Here's a few things we have done to aid us in keeping cool in our RVs.

Reflectix
A bubble wrap reflective foil in windows has been a big aid, particularly in the Roadtrek, our class B. That has a large front window which simply seems to pull the heat into the vehicle. Reflectix has been very helpful. We use it in all windows except the side entry in summer and fall/winter trekking. Glass has a R-value of about 0.1 which means almost no insulating value. I understand that Reflectix has an R-value of 1.0. I understand the Roadtrek has an R-value in the walls of about 4.5. Anything we can to to improve the insulation is a good thing.

Screens
The Roadtrek came with side entry and rear entry screens. When the outside temperature is acceptable, if we can get better airflow that is an aid. However, we prefer to close the side door. I fabricated a magnetic held screen for the front side window. These can be purchased, if one prefers. The goal is to get the interior temperature down to the exterior without the use of air conditioning. We open the side window a couple of inches and use the Fantastic Fan, or open the rear door which has a full interior screen.

Fans
Our RVs have roof fans. These include Fantastic Fans. That's helpful for pulling warmer interior air out, and drawing in cooler outside air, when it is available. Or, after a shower, these fans can move moisture laden air to the outside, reducing interior humidity.

However, we also use a 12V DC fan in the Roadtrek, We found one that sits on the shelf above the side door. It has side air inlets and variable speed. Very helpful to move air around in the front of the RV, particularly if the vehicle is facing the sun.

A small 120VAC fan is also useful. This we use in the travel trailer to move the air around. Got a small 8 inch diameter Vornado which is also variable speed.

Create Shade
If one can't park in the shade, the next best thing is to create it. Many rigs have an awning, and if possible one might be able to orient the position of their RV so they get some benefit. Creating partial shade is easier than it may seem. We use several sun screens to aid us. One we fabricated from a roll of Coolaroo material. We hung that one the side of the TT which gets a lot of afternoon sun. It made quite a difference. We purchased a triangular piece and we position it as necessary with the Roadtrek. Usually to the front. I use a couple of expandable metal tent poles and 1/8 inch green nylon rope with tent stakes to get it into place. A 36 inch wooden dowel holds the front up to keep it off of the vehicle. I use aluminum carabiners to attach the sail to the tops of the poles. This allows me to quickly drop the sail if the wind comes up, or when evening approaches. The lines are strung to stay in place and hold the poles up with the sail dropped.

Here's the Roadtrek with awning extended, reflectix in the front window and the coolaroo sun sail up.

When not in use the sun sail folds conveniently and with the tent poles goes easily into the side storage compartment of the Roadtrek.

The travel trailer gets a lot of side sun in the dining/living slide. We hung a piece of coolaroo fabric. I used the coolaroo lacing kit to clean up the cut fabric ends. A custom wooden clamp the full length of the top keeps it in place. I fabricated a spacer to keep the upper area of the shade off of the side of the trailer. The spacer is made from a chromed shower rod and foam pipe insulators. That space is important to keep an air gap along the entire length of the shade. 

I use a couple of clamps designed for that purpose on the bottom with a bungees at a slight tension to hold the bottom out from the RV.  I attached the bungees with 1/8 nylon cord to a couple of bricks.

Cover the Roof Vents
A Maxxair vent cover is nice. It keeps the sun from directly striking the lid of the roof vent and it keeps bugs and birds away from an open vent. We added one to the Roadtrek.

However, the previous owner of our TT didn't install these covers and it has three roof vents. While on the roof I noticed that the covers were showing some distress after being in the sun for about 6 years. We also noticed a lot of heat in those areas during hot sunny days. One can install a insulator.  Camco has one which has a bright aluminized surface, which can be pointed up. These aren't very convenient if one wants to open the vent lid frequently. However, in cool weather we use one in the bedroom to keep the heat inside and provide some insulating value.

I decided to cover the vent covers with heavy duty aluminum foil. That reflects the heat away from these covers. It really made a difference in the travel trailer. I used a tube of exterior silicone caulk and after applying a bead on the edges, sides and in a pattern along the top I simply placed the aluminum foil and smoothed it into place. I trimmed the foil and folded the edge under the vent cover lid.  The travel trailer has 10 windows and frosted glass in the doors, so we get ample light even with the vents opaqued.

Camco vent insulator, aluminum side up:

Refrigeration
Our Roadtrek has a Dometic 3-way absorption type refrigerator. When we first encountered 103F we were on a site with the refrigerator side of the RT in full sun. The refrigerator had some difficulties keeping things sufficiently cold.

We had one of those battery operated fans and it was useful. An internal thermometer mounted on the top shelf told us the real condition inside. I did some research and read the Dometic manuals about "Power Ventilator Installation" and concluded that improved ventilation would be helpful. I added two very low power 12V DC fans and a thermostat with an in-line fuse.

Refrigerator interior fan

Ventilation Fans

Refrigerator Thermometer