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G has a "swell" time kayaking

G has a "swell" time kayaking
G has a "swell" time on Lake Michigan in an inflatable canoe

Dawn on the Gulf of Mexico

Dawn on the Gulf of Mexico
Dawn on the Gulf of Mexico

Warren Dunes Sunset

Warren Dunes Sunset
Warren Dunes Sunset
Showing posts with label Cast Iron Cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cast Iron Cooking. Show all posts

Saturday, October 20, 2018

Cast Iron Cooking



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We cook a lot when trekking.  For one thing, G and I do really enjoy each others cooking. For another, it can be inexpensive. We also learn from each other because we have very different cooking approaches, skills, and recipes.

My suggestion? Invite someone over for dinner and relax and share the joy.

As we approach another major trek, I thought I'd put up some of the things we do using cast iron. With the approach of cooler weather, we'll be doing less grilling.

Cast iron cooking is a great alternative to grilling, and there are some things that one simply can't do easily on a grill. Other than boiling water or cooking very acidic things, just about anything can be grilled, cooked or baked in the appropriate cast iron pan or dutch oven. However, we aren't "purists" so we do also use a convection/microwave, an oven, etc. We also love All-Clad copper core stainless steel cookware, and we have several smaller skillets. These will not work on an inductive burner.

My point is, it is really all about achieving results and for that, I choose the best tools at the lowest possible cost.

Why cook with cast iron?
Cast iron cookery, such as skillets, dutch ovens and griddles can provide an even, consistent heat.  Cast iron will work with a propane range top, but is really in its element with an induction cooktop, which we do carry in our Roadtrek.

Because we prefer to conserve propane for the hot water and furnace in the Roadtrek, we turn to electrical sources of cooking energy. In addition, burning propane releases water into the interior of the RV. That's a natural consequence of the combustion process, and such water vapor is in addition to that released by boiling water. Additional water vapor is not a good thing in cold weather where it can and will condense on cold RV surfaces such as windows.

I do like cast iron because it can provide some really superior cooking results. It is easy to use once one figures out some of the eccentricities.  For the skeptical, I want to remind that cooking on an electric cook stove versus a gas rangetop does require some adjustment.  Cast iron is no different, and can be easily learned.

Our first cast iron experience
I was a youth leader and our Boy Scout Troop cooked frequently with cast iron skillets and dutch ovens; our scouts had a well earned reputation for providing fine dining in the woods. Our repertoire ranged from pizza to roasted turkey to blueberry cobbler to homemade ice cream.  But G was unfamiliar with that approach. She and I attended a cooking marathon in Chattanooga TN back in 2004. That was G's first introduction to cast iron cooking. We purchased a 12 inch Lodge skillet at that time and we have never looked back. That was a very happy decision.

Cast Iron is different
Cast iron does need some adjusting. It does need to be "seasoned". This is because the surface of cast iron is slightly porous.  Many cast iron cooking implements such as Lodge come pre-seasoned. After use, a periodic re-seasoning may be necessary. I season ours on a range-top, but one can also season in the oven.  Doing so is not a frequent event!

I have found that cast iron works best with higher initial temperatures, reduced once cooking commences. But that's my approach and experience.

Because cast iron provides good heat transfer and is thicker on the bottom, it doesn't react as fast on electric cook tops. That sometimes gets new users into difficulty. On the other hand, cast iron is perfect on an induction cooktop, and we carry one in our Roadtrek for that purpose.

When cooking with cast iron, one uses a variety of oils. Different oils have differing smoke temperatures. Knowing those can be an aid to temperature control. However, when most ingredients reach 212F they boil and one can figure out what is occurring.

My experience is that one might keep a skillet too low or underoiled when initial cooking begins. I use a non-contact thermometer to aid me, particularly if seasoning the skillet outside the oven. However, if one knows the "smoke temperature" of various oils, then such a device isn't necessary. Nevertheless, I do use one, and it is handy for looking into other temperature excursions into our RV.

Here's a link to various"smoke temperatures".  I generally cook with olive oil and butter. I frequently use olive oil with a little butter for flavor.

http://www.cookingforengineers.com/article/50/Smoke-Points-of-Various-Fats

How To Season Your Cast-Iron Skillet in an Oven:

  1. Scrub skillet well in hot soapy water. Dry thoroughly. 
  2. Spread a thin layer of melted shortening or vegetable oil over the skillet. 
  3. Place it upside down on a middle oven rack at 375°. (Place foil on a lower rack to catch drips.) Bake 1 hour; let cool in the oven.


Using an inductive cooktop
I have a portable Duxtop, which currently can be purchased for about $49. I use it both indoors and outdoors. Of course, being an electric appliance it would be dangerous to use it if raining, in the wet, etc. Duh!

I generally cook at "power levels" of 2 or 3. These are published as "keep warm" or "low" with corresponding 500 to 800 watts. 

We cook everything from bacon to breakfast sausage to pancakes to sloppy joes to steaks. However, being a "grill meister" I prefer to grill steaks, burgers and so on on the BBQ.

What can one cook? Here's a representative sample.






















Using simple technology
I do use a handheld non-contact thermometer to determine the temperature of the skillet. That's not a requirement for cooking. Consider it to be a consequence of my inadequacy. The thermometer in the photo cost me $25 at Harbor Freight, and I use it for other purposes.

This simple tool has made be a better cook! That, dear readers, had provided better results and a happy spouse.



Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/


Thursday, January 25, 2018

Useful RV Gadgets



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Originally posted January 25, 2018.... I'll expand the list from time to time.  This is one of three related posts.

I've found some useful gadgets and a few essential ones. I've been adding stuff since our first trek in October 2013. That was a rental Class B and very educational. When we purchased a 2013 Roadtrek 210P we began adding things or expanding our list of stuff to carry.

This post is a companion piece to the others about modifications and tools.


Energy Management (Protection):
Here's a link to a 30A Power Protection device. This protects your RV from overvoltage, undervoltage, open neutral, missing ground, energy surges, etc. It's money well spent considering the cost of repairing RVs when power surges, etc. damage equipment such as heat pumps, air conditioners, appliances, refrigerators, furnace, power inverter/charger, etc.

Click for post on Power Protection



Exterior power protection
Interior mounted power protection

Leveling
We're more comfortable when the RV is level. That 3-way refrigerator operates better when it is level and if too far out of kilter, it may not work at all according to the manufacturer.

We carry levelers which can be assembled like legos to adjust the height of the Roadtrek. We use Lynx levelers, but there are others to choose from:

Lynx Levellers


Levellers and wheel chocks stowed in the outside compartment of our 210P
First Aid
I've updated this post to include the medical kit I carry with me. We do supplement this with additional items, but having a good first aid kit is smart and is a good building block, IMHO.  I prefer a "backpackers" model because it is pretty all inclusive. I also carry a tick remover, and the photo indicates my preferred tool.  To this one can add better bandaids, etc.




Morning Coffee
I like a good cup of coffee in the morning. Space is limited, so we purchased an Aeropress.

Comfort - Heating and Cooling, etc. 
We  have Reflectix in all but the side door window. Really makes a difference on fall or winter nights. Also very useful if parked in full sun:


We added a front side screen; I made it but there are purchase options. It  is held in place with embedded magnets. The Roadtrek has rear and side door screens. The rear is handy, but we don't use side door screen. Adding the front window screen provides "cross through" ventilation:



We added a fan to move interior air, usually to cool the front of the vehicle and a 12VDC extension. The fan has side air entry and sits in the shelf immediately above the side door:

12V interior fan

I added a solar sail to provide additional shade. Very helpful in full sun with the outside temp going into the 90s or higher. Note the Reflectix in the front window:


We carry a dual control electric blanket and with a woolen blanket G prefers this to a sleeping bag.  The one we chose has illuminated controls; less fumbling in the dark and no need to turn on lights to adjust:

We carry a 750/1500 watt 120V heater. This is very small and makes a wonderful difference when temperatures are below 40F, at which point the heat pump doesn't function very well:

I added a flat panel heater, this is intended for use in the front window of the vehicle. The photo is of a larger version which we use in the TT and 5th wheel. The one for the Roadtrek is 18x23 inches and 1/2 inch thick. It is rated 250 watts. Must be kept away from flammable things. It includes an Off-On switch, but I added a digital thermostat:

After spending a lot of time in low humidity regions (14% RH or lower) we added a small humidifier/vaporizor. This is a TaoTronic which measures about 8x10x5 inches and has sufficient capacity to run all night:

Temperature Monitoring: 
We added interior/exterior thermometers. Our first was appropriated from home but I upgraded to a very small with single remote. The small one goes a year on batteries and has a much better display (higher contrast):





Refrigerator:
I added an interior thermometer and one of those battery operated fans to improve distribution. We also added single and dual refrigerator bars to help keep stuff from bouncing around. We always keep an open box of baking soda in the refrigerator to control odors:

Refrigerator thermometer
Refrigerator or cabinet spring-loaded bars to immobilize containers and jars, etc.


Cooking and BBQ:
The Roadtrek includes a convection-microwave over and a two burner propane burner. But we do a lot of cooking and so we added a few things:

I prefer a small Weber propane grill because it has a taller lid and easily accommodates baking potatoes, corn on the cob and so on. But due to space limitations we carry a Coleman. A digital thermometer is essential.



Coleman portable propane BBQ





Meat thermometer for cooking and grillling

We also carry a small induction electric cook top. This can be used indoors or outdoors (when dry) and we use it a lot. It works very well with cast iron and so we carry two sizes of cast iron skillets, a small and a 12 inch, as well as a griddle. The cast iron also works well with the propane range top:

cooking with cast iron and portable electric induction cooktop





The induction top can be used with stainless steel if a ferromagnetic plate is used, but that isn't very efficient. We prefer the cast iron but can't boil water in it, and prefer not to make acidic soups in the cast iron.


For steaming vegetables in the microwave we have a silicone vegetable heater. Works well.

steamer for vegetables - for microwave


Dealing with water:
We use a water pressure regulator and a filter at most campsite with  a splitter so I can attach a second hose. I also added an improved water inlet spigot, which screwed into the plastic fitting on the Roadtrek and makes attaching the hose easier. I carry two potable water hoses. One is a standard 25 ft. and also a 50 ft. "handi-hose" which folds flat on its own reel (does need to be carefully laid to avoid kinks, which reduce pressure). After an extended stay in an area with very hard water I purchased a small, portable water softener. It goes a couple of weeks on a box of table salt. Really made a difference as we were getting hard water deposits and that actually messed up the water inlet check valve on the rig!  We like a small Brita jug, which uses carbon filters, as well a a jug to place on the counter..


Added exterior fresh water shutoff

On-the-Go water softener


Disposable water filter

one version of a water pressure regulator

90 degree hose connection - I don't need this on my Roadtrek, but this can reduce the strain of the hose and water filter on the potable connector of the RV


potable water "Y" hose connection - it is smart to put a cap on any open connector. Mud daubers may move in!

rollable hose



pitcher with carbon water filter to improve taste of drinking water

portable container for drinking water

Supplemental Lighting:
I purchased a 5-pack of these hockey puck style AA powered lights. We put them in some of the overhead bins to help in dim lighting conditions. We also carry two AA powered Maglite flashlights and some campgrounds recommend portable lights so when walking at night vehicles are made of the presence of pedestrians.  We picked up two flashing/steady red with a clip which can be put on one's belt, purse strap, etc.

battery operated LED light for cabinets


maglight flashlight

clip on flashing safety light - use when walking on roads in campgounds

Space Utilization
That can be a challenge. There are all manner of bins to keep canned goods in place, etc. We also have several varieties of "washline" with clips, which we use for hanging our hats, etc. 


Electrical
If you don't have a digital voltmeter for monitoring the 12V coach battery then find a socket in the coach and a  plug-in digital meter. Here's a couple of photos:

Plug-in 12V DC Meter
Location of 12V socket in a 210P


Miscellaneous
I lock the tire carrier in position and I have a small diameter steel cable which also locks the tire to the carrier. I also use a small water meter (turbine style), useful when filling fresh water tanks. It includes a removable valve, and I use it with all of the rigs.  I also have a toilet tank wand, which is helpful for knocking crud off the sides of the tank. 

Lock on tire carrier


water flowmeter. Helpful when filling tanks



Last, but not least is a wand to rinse out the hot water tank. Really amazing how much crud accumulates in a hard water environment:





Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/