Capulin Volcano

The Capulin Volcano National Monument in New Mexico is on Highway 325 about 5 miles southwest of Folsom, NM. One can drive up to the rim and there are also walking trails. There is no turnaround on the road to the volcano rim, so once you begin you must go the entire distance to the top.

Capulin Volcano from Space

According to the National Park Service, the park Visitor Center is situated at 7242 feet elevation and the rim climbs to 8182 feet. While Capulin Volcano is one of the most accessible volcanoes in the United States, the crater rim has an elevation change of nearly 500 feet.

The drive to the rim is via a 2 mile road. The road is 2 lanes and paved but follows the curve of the mountain which limits the size of vehicles able to pass each other comfortably. The maximum size of a vehicle allowed on the Volcano Road is 26 feet in length and/or 8 feet in width. The park service states "In order to accommodate large vehicles (motorhomes, buses, etc.), we must stop traffic. We will try our best to accommodate visitors who have larger vehicles, but accommodation will depend upon staffing and the number of vehicles at the top of the volcano." I suggest anyone with a larger vehicle stop at the visitor center and discuss with the park ranger.

If you are towing a trailer or towed vehicles you will have to stop at the visitor center and unhitch it and leave it at the center. If you are driving an RV towing a vehicle, you will have to unhitch and drive the smaller vehicle to the rim.

We stopped at the visitor center before proceeding on the volcano road. After determining the dimensions of the road and the restrictions we proceeded in the RT and easily made the 2 mile drive to the top top and down again.

Once we reached the parking at the rim, we were able to walk the trails and view the Raton-Clayton volcanic field, and the visitor's center in the distance.

Palo Duro Canyon

The second largest canyon in the country lies in the heart of the Texas Panhandle. Palo Duro Canyon State Park is about 29 driving miles south/south-east of Amarillo, TX.

Here's a short video and this gentleman says it very well. BUT. don't be deterred by the teaser model in the bikini:

Oops, email is now working again.

Oops, turned out my ISP had put one of my email accounts to sleep, but didn't inform me of this.

Sorry to those who attempted to reach me via the email link on this blog. I've fixed the problem and my email now works again.

My thanks to Karen for sending me a comment in which she pointed this out.

I guess having my email working will be a fine way to start the new year right!

Progressive Energy Management System

It's been an unusual year, and my trek plans were interrupted.  More on that on coming posts. With treks delayed I spent what available time I had planning and installing improvements. One of those was a Progressive Industries Energy Management System "EMS-HW30C." This post includes a video of the unit which I installed.

I chose this unit for these reasons, in no particular order:

1. Ability to mount "inside" and protected from the weather. 
2. Remote indicator with ON-OFF (bypass) control. This I have mounted inside the rear coach of the RT where it can be readily observed day and night. 
3. The indicator displays line voltage, current (amperes) and frequency (Hertz).
4. The indicator displays error codes, which provide indication of power conditions and also the internal condition of the EMS. 
5. Multi-mode surge protection and easy replacement of MOVs. 
6. Automatic power shutdown via contactor if AC voltage falls below 104 volts or rises above 132 volts, or if the RT is accidentally connected to 240 Volts.
7. 15 second time delay on compressor start (adjustable). This avoids false trips. 
8. Ability to bypass (disable) all energy management via a switch on the remote indicator. Surge protection via Metal Oxide Varistors (MOVs) is always enabled. 
9. Lifetime warranty.
10. Proudly manufactured in the U.S.A.

I reviewed a number of possible locations including under the RT, inside an internal compartment, inside an external compartment, etc.

I also considered wiring the EMS before the generator or after. However, I decided for simplicity to install it in the main 120V power cable.

I decided to install in an outside storage compartment. That compartment is the location of the 30 ampere power cable. I also decided to install the EMS with twist-lock 30 ampere connectors. This allows easy removal when cleaning the RV, when the RV is stored for the winter, or if service od the EMS is necessary.

Here's a photo of the power cable modified with the twist-lock connectors. This is without the EMS in the compartment:

With the EMS in the compartment. Brick was temporary to be certain it wasn't standing in water:

Display

The following video was filmed on July 1, 2014, but uploaded today:

Side Door Screen Solution

We haven't had a bug problem, probably because of the weather we have had while using the camper van. Our travel plans were stopped this year by a number of issues. We did complete two spring treks and that was it until last week when we took a short 3-day shakedown before putting the camper into storage.

However, insects can be a nuisance. We do have an optional screen kit for the doors, and there is also a permanently installed screen on the window of the side entry door. Because of the cool weather early this year, insects weren't a problem.

However, it wasn't long and we pushed the side window screen out of the groove. This is a relatively easy thing to fix. Eight screws and the screen can be removed from the side door window, stretched and put back together.

Of course, it would only be a matter of time before there were more serious damage. I decided to make a permanent modification.

Solution
The problem was caused by putting one's hand on the edge below the window when exiting the vehicle. That might be to open the door fully or simply to steady oneself. Here is the solution:

Material: 1/2 x 1/2 inch aluminum angle, cut to length, file rough edges smooth and round.

We've debated the color, but for now the aluminum color is helpful and catches the eye when egressing the vehicle. I drilled two holes in the angle to match the existing mounting screws. This was a simple job.

Second Problem - Small Gap Around Screen
While I was at it, I sealed a small gap in the corner of the screen. This was easy with DAP "Quick Seal" which is paintable. I chose an almond color which I can also use around the home. I'll paint it black to match the trim of the screen window.

10,000 miles in 9 months - Our "Tiny Home"

Well, in the last 9 months we've exceeded 10,000 miles in our camper vans. Some of this was in a rental and most was in a Roadtrek 210P. Let me say, we've thoroughly enjoyed this and one of my sons wants to go on a north woods fishing trip in July, which I am currently researching.

Our 9 months have provided some insights.

1. Our observations are based on periods which span two weeks of living continuously in a camper van. Between treks we return to home base. 
2. We really liked the rental  Sprinter. I recommend this option to anyone who wants a really fun, upgraded travel experience at a modest cost. 
3. We didn't like like the large sliding door and the limited interior width of the Sprinter. However, Roadtrek's Sprinter implementation via the CS-Adventurous appears to be quite nice.
4. We opted for a new, fully equipped 210P for about 40% less than the Sprinter. (Includes generator, electric king size bed, AGM batteries with inverter, rear mount spare and a solar system I installed). The Chevy based 210P offers a wider aisle, exterior spare at waist level and a 5 cu. ft. refrigerator with convection oven/microwave, heat pump, air conditioner, propane furnace and two fresh water tanks. Really nice for anyone who wants to spend weeks in national parks and on the road, and wants to do so with daylight temperatures from 20F to 110F. 
5. I am a former backpacker and "ground camper" who has camped in winter (-25F) and summer. For example,  I once canoed 90 miles in Quetico with boys of modest skills. I was sufficiently proficient that as a Scoutmaster I was awarded the BSA "District Award of Merit" for my numerous endeavors. My point in stating this is to emphasize that using a sophisticated camper van based on a Sprinter chassis or more recently the Roadtrek 210P is really travelling and camping in the "lap of luxury." 
6. I did some research into maintenance of the bluetec engine (which is a marvel). However, in the end is it about maintainability and cost per mile. In a Class B motorhome it is also about interior dimensions. Nor do I have any need for the "cache" of a Mercedes badge on the front of the vehicle. So the Chevy based 210P won. Not necessarily better. It's all about allocation of personal resources and amenities of the selected camper van. 
7. We've taken four treks ranging from about 1500 miles to 3500 miles each. 
8. Most of the 10,000 miles was in a Roadtrek 210P.
9. I've added a solar panel charger and solar panels to the RT, a Progressive Industries EMS  and an improved rear view camera system. Total cost less than $500. 
10. Future posts will also include some Quadcopter video. 
11. I am not retired. So doing all of this is a matter of balance. 

The next few posts will include our experiences on recent treks, a brief review of outdoor cooking options and the installation of the Progressive Industries "Energy management system."

AGM Batteries Sulfation, RV AGM Battery Care and Charging - Part 2

This is part 2 about care of AGM batteries in a "motor home." The previous post is part 1.

After a significant amount of research into the chemistry,  technology and charging of AGM batteries I became concerned about battery damage including sulfation and freezing the battery electrolyte. I want to achieve longer battery life and have 100% rated battery power available when I am off the grid and am not running the generator. I decided I needed to make an improvement and installed a solar panel and solar controller-battery charger for my coach batteries. This post looks more closely at the research that led to my decision. I'll provide in brief the why's, as well as some of the "do's and don'ts." I am not promoting any product here. This describes the issues and the solution I chose, and provides background information about that decision. This may be helpful to others.

I chose a 50 watt solar panel and a "Solar Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator" rated for use with solar systems up to 180 Watts. The solar panel is not used when the vehicle is in motion. I decided on this approach because:

1. The replacement price of the coach batteries would be about $250.00-$400.00
2. The Camper Van may be stored for weeks and sometimes for months
3. It's desired to achieve the maximum life from the coach batteries
4. It's desired to have the batteries provide the maximum rated power throughout their life
5. When stored,  120V shore power is not available. Solar power is the only available power option unless the generator or vehicle motor is running.

The following post provides, in brief, what I have learned on this subject and how what I learned has influenced my decision  Why would I want to do this? I'd like to spare the reader the time to replicate what I have researched.

How to Achieve Full Life and Power from AGM Batteries
That is the goal. Get maximum power and longest life from the AGM coach batteries. Doing so should provide a more pleasurable trekking experience and reduce the annual cost of operating the camper van.

Deep Cycle AGM Batteries require complete charging, but not overcharging to achieve full lifespan, avoid freezing damage and provide the amount of power expected from them.

Roadtrek states in their 2014 210P manual "AGM Battery Warranty....... is voided if AGM batteries are tampered with, topped off with distilled water or allowed to sulfate or freeze due to lack of charge."

Here are the most important things that dictate battery life:

• Preventive maintenance
• Depth-of-Discharge (avoid discharge below 75% charged)
• Charging to a full charge
• Temperature conditions of the batteries (cooler is better). Batteries are designed for an average annual temperature of 77F (25C). If the average annual temperature is 95F (35C) then the battery life will be reduced by about 50 percent. 

What is full life? It varies. 3-5 years is fairly typical according to published information. However, AGM batteries are reputed to achieve up to 10 years if properly maintained, kept cool and if used in such a manner to maximize battery life. I decided I would prefer to replace these batteries every 6-8 years instead of every three years. I also decided I do want the maximum battery power to be available when needed.

Avoiding Sulfation and Extending Battery Life
Sulfation if left unchecked will kill the coach batteries. Sulfation begins when the batteries are not fully charged, and storing them unless "float charged" continues the sulfation process. The RT and most RVs include charging systems for the coach batteries. However, there are periods in which these 120V or engine and generator powered charging systems are not available. That is a problem. So how can I achieve my stated goal of long life at maximum power from these batteries under my actual storage and charging conditions?

Frequent charging while avoiding overcharging of AGM batteries will reduce, but not eliminate sulfation. Sulfation occurs each time a battery is discharged. Storing a battery is reputed to cause self-discharge and sulfation, and this is more serious at higher temperatures, above 75F.  Batteries which are not used weekly may experience sulfation.

Sulfation is the gradual coating of the positive lead plate of the battery with lead sulfate (PbSO4). Simultaneously the battery electrolyte, which is sulfuric acid (H2SO4) on losing SO4 molecules becomes diluted by water. This occurs during battery discharge. The chemistry is oxygen molecules (O2) from the positive lead plate combine with hydrogen molecules (H2) from the battery acid and the result is water (H2O).

Because AGM batteries are chemical devices, cold weather will slow the sulfation process while hot weather speeds it up. In other words, full charging may be more important at higher temperatures. On the other hand, as sulfation occurs battery electrolyte (acid) is diluted by water molecules and will freeze at lower temperatures than the normal electrolyte of a fully charged battery. Such freezing can damage the battery.

Normal charging does not remove all sulfate molecules from the plates. Over time they build up on the plate and ultimately contribute to the demise of the battery. Sulfation, or the formation of lead sulfate can permanently reduce battery capacity. If unchecked it can kill the battery.

Keeping batteries fully charged and reducing sulfation will extend the life of the batteries and provide optimum capacity. Battery life expectancy is directly the result of how well these batteries are maintained and how they are used (or abused). Key points are:

• Don't overcharge.
• Don't undercharge
• Keep fully charged and don't store undercharged.
• Use and keep the batteries at their average design temperature.  
• Apply a periodic full-saturation charge to de-sulfate the batteries.
• Don't over-deplete; reduce the average "depth of discharge." and avoid "deep discharge".
• Reduce the number of "discharge-charge" cycles. 
• Don't charge if over 120F and don't charge if the battery is frozen. 

Some of the above might not be possible. That is why many batteries don't survive for more than 3 years according to some published sources. However, I'm convinced that good care and attention to these details will extend battery life for most users. One manufacturer of battery chargers/maintainers/desulphators claims that certain models of their product "can more than double the useful life of new batteries." I can't verify that. However, it's prudent to ask why some batteries fail within 3 years while others go on for 6 or more years.

It is my understanding there are two types of sulfation: 1) reversible (soft sulfation), and 2) permanent (hard sulfation). Reversible sulfation is normal and can be corrected by a specific charging regimen. When charging, the PbSO4 is converted to lead and the SO4 combines with hydrogen to form electrolyte. Non-reversible sulfation occurs when a battery has been in a discharged condition, or "low state-of-charge" for a longer period, be it weeks or months. In such a state the sulfate crystals become permanent, cannot be reversed by charging methods and the capacity of the battery is permanently reduced and impaired.

Charging and Reducing or Reversing Sulfation
Special charging techniques are reputed to reverse sulfation.  Battery charging states include:

• Bulk (high, constant current)
• Absorption (constant voltage)
• Float (hold at 100% charge)
• Equalization.(controlled absorption overcharge)
• De-sulfation

A microprocessor "smart" charger will include three or four of these states. Special chargers provide a fifth state called "de-sulfation." One charger manufacturer declares "Patented high-frequency pulse desulfation is designed to reverse and eliminate battery sulfation."

There is some controversy about the claims of "reversing sulfation." One critic states "simple, electronic de-sulfation is a one size fits all approach." On the other hand, I've seen no comments or evidence that such pulse desulfation techniques can harm the batteries.

How to Apply a "Full Saturation" Charge
Such a charge is a general recommendation for lead acid batteries. However, some AGM battery manufacturers have specific requirements of this type of charge and if not followed it is possible to damage the batteries. This type of charge is also called an "Equalizing" charge. This is done by a deliberate overcharge of the batteries. The problem with sealed AGM batteries is there is no way to measure the electrolyte condition and so the equalizing charge is guesswork and may be based on terminal voltage. My guess is it's better to use a good 4-stage charger and avoid deep discharges.

Choosing a Battery Charger
The charger included in your RV or camper van is probably a three-stage "smart" charger which includes bulk, absorption and float stages.  "Float" charging is not "trickle" charging; a trickle charger can overcharge batteries!

I decided to add a "Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator" which was designed for use with solar panels. I also selected a solar panel which is overcapacity. This approach compensates for the lowered solar power that is available when daylight is minimized, such as during winter hours or when overcast. It also provides for a higher charging rate when there is optimal sunlight available.

Using a 50 watt solar panel provides a maximum 4.17 amperes of charging current at 12V during peak sunlight conditions. That's more than sufficient for maintaining or topping off the batteries.

Overcharging is to be avoided. I decided to use a solar charger that includes temperature compensation with float charging. The temperature sensor is attached to one of the battery terminals. This permits charging in cold and hot weather. The manufacturer states compensation works over the range 0F to 130F.

The solar charging system is only used when the batteries are not being charged via 120V shore power, generator power or via a running vehicle engine. It is intended to be used at any time the vehicle is stationary. The solar charger is connected directly to the batteries and operates independent of the position of the battery disconnect switch.

How Long Does it Take to Charge the Batteries?
The answer to that question is determined by the amount of sunlight available and the condition of the batteries. The purpose of the solar charger is to take the batteries from a condition of 85% to 90% charged to full charge, or apply a "topping" charge. Once at full charge, the goal is to "float" and desulfate the batteries while avoiding overcharge. Temperature compensation reduces the float charge as the battery temperature increases.

To bring a discharged battery to full charge can take 7 to 10 hours or longer. That is not the purpose of the solar system, but if there is sufficient daylight hours such charging is a possibility.

How Does "Depth of Discharge" Influence Battery Life?
Any AGM battery has a service life which is measured in number of discharges and the "depth of discharge." As a rule of thumb, the less the "depth of discharge" the longer the life of the battery, but it should be discharged to 90% peak when used. In other words, if used the battery should be discharged 10% and  a battery which is repeatedly used and discharged to 50% of its peak capacity and then completely recharged may be usable for 1000 cycles. If one cycle occurs each day, then the battery may have a life of 3 years.

That same battery, if discharged to 75% of its peak capacity each day and then fully recharged may be usable for 2000 cycles. Under such conditions the battery may have a life of 6 years.

Furthermore, that same battery if discharged to 25% of its peak capacity each day and then fully recharged may be usable for 500 cycles. Under such conditions the battery may have a life of only 16 months. Discharging a battery to less than 25% capacity is to be avoided.

What are Battery Storage Choices?
Batteries can be disconnected and then charged if they are not going to be used for long periods of time. It's best to store the battery in a cool or cold place (sulfation is slowed when it is below 75F). Here's a few methods:

1. Turn the battery switch "off" and then connect a 3- or 4- stage microprocessor controlled battery charger and fully charge the battery. If the charger includes an automatic "float" mode it can be left connected to the battery for long periods of time. Check your manufacturer. 
2. If the battery is fully charged connect a "float" charger, again check your manufacturer.
3. Alternately, the battery can be removed in the vehicle and kept above freezing while a float charge is applied. 

Avoiding the Freezing of Batteries
If the electrolyte in a lead acid battery freezes, the battery will probably be damaged. The capacity of such a damaged battery will be reduced. What are the freezing temperatures of a depleted battery? A battery in good condition that is 100% charged has the maximum concentration of sulfuric acid as electrolyte. As the battery discharges, the concentration of the acid is reduced as water molecules replace acid molecules in the electrolyte. Here are typical freezing temperatures for lead acid batteries at different charge states:

100% Charged = (-) 77F, or (-) 67C.
75% Charged = (-) 35F or (-) 37C
50% Charged = (-) 10F or (-) 23C

Other Sources
There are a lot of web based sources on AGM battery maintenance and charging. Enter  "AGM battery maintenance", "AGM battery charging" or "AGM Battery desulfation" in your favorite search engine and you'll get a list.