We went to see the current production. Always a lot of fun at the Gaslight Theater!
This is our Trek in our Roadtrek 210P. Hint: Scroll to a list of "Topics and Destinations" on the right. Our RT is a portal to a much larger world and we have established "lily pads" from which we travel and we'll post about those, too. Life is a Journey of discovery in our Motorized Alpaca, a "tiny cabins on wheels". It has been said that "Life Begins at the end of our Comfort Zone." Content and photos are original unless noted. Click photos to enlarge. Copyright and disclaimers apply.
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Saguaro National Park - East, January 14, 2022 |
Our trek to our winter lily pad was delayed for a variety of reasons.
Long Island Sound, viewed from Connecticut |
After a trip to the east coast, we retrieved the Roadtrek only to find that in our absence we had made a political donation; Thieves, or to use the woke term, a "disadvantaged person" had stolen, er, "appropriated" the catalytic converter.
While getting the Roadtrek repaired, we packed and prepped the condominium for winter. We run the furnace at 65F, put insulation in the kitchen window, shut off the water and drain the lines, etc. During checkout of the gas furnace in the condo, it wouldn't ignite. We needed to get that operating, and with time short available I hired a professional. He attributed the issue to a failure of the electrical “sparker” which ignites the pilot. He didn’t have the part, a kind of “spark plug” but contacted his office to get a quote and determine availability. He also suggested that I consider a total furnace replacement, for no other reason than furnace age. Not something I was excited to do in November as winter was approaching; besides, we were supposed to be elsewhere.
I decided to run my own diagnostics as I waited for the proposals. I concluded the issue was not the “spark” but was the pilot gas valve, which was not opening on electrical command. I determined the valve was good and the source of the problem was the “Intermittent Pilot Ignition Control”. I went online and purchased one for $98. It arrived the next day and I installed it. That solved the problem.
Was it a good use of my time? I think so, as it 1) Solved the problem for a total cost of $218 including the professional’s time, 2) Saved us the $8,500+ for a new furnace and 3) Allowed us to promptly leave for our AZ winter location. I remotely monitor the condo, and interior temperature has been a steady 65F ever since.
Condominium weather January 23 |
Condominium Ambient Conditions, January 23 |
We did eventually get into the Roadtrek and headed to the Southwest, arriving December 8, 2021. The trip was very relaxed. The weather was the best we have encountered since we began travelling this way in 2014. Mild daytime temperatures, low nighttime temperatures 40-50F and easy traffic. We avoid the cities.
Sunset, December 8, 2021 |
Typical Van Catalytic Converter Assembly |
It has been reported that thieves are now targeting RV storage facilities as a source of catalytic converters. A number of nearby RV storage facilities were targets. At one town in Michigan theft of many catalytic converters has occurred in recent months.
At one storage facility it was discovered that five vehicles were targeted.
I'm including info on catalytic converter and vehicle theft in this post.
I spoke with the Chief of Police of a nearby community about this problem. He stated that thieves are now transporting stolen converters out of state, making recovery or capture of the thieves more difficult. There are thieves and then there are unscrupulous scrap dealers. They are both a part of the problem.
Nevertheless, here are some things that might make it less likely that your RV will be targeted:
Low Technology - no batteries required |
For those who own older Roadtreks my recent post about technology issues might seem bizarre. Older Roadtreks use less proprietary technology and less high tech.
This year, automobile manufacture was halted by a "chip shortage". Except for Tesla, and that's an interesting story about adaptability and hard work.
Microprocessors and related technologies are now an integral and necessary part of any vehicle. Electronics now dictates the performance and experience of owners of cars and vans. It also has influences the performance and operability of RVs.
If you read the posts on various forums about Roadtreks, you might conclude that "less technology might be better technology". I conclude there is a lot of frustration among recent owners, and that includes the other classes of RVs including A, C, travel trailers and 5th wheels. I am separating the "build quality" complaints from other, technology related complaints.
There is a reason for the disappointment with technology and it is about what we call a curve of diminishing returns, as well as the transition in skill requirements. If we, as purchasers, are on one side of the curve, where the benefits outweigh the problems, it is a wonderful experience. If we find ourselves on the other side of that curve, where problems exceed benefits, it is not so much fun.
We expect performance, serviceability, and low operating costs. But RV mechanics are the ones who deliver after purchase, and they may be hamstrung by sophisticated technology built into rigs, and for which they have not been trained, or have little control. Only a few years ago, RVs were about engines, transmissions, and electro-mechanical devices.
In high production vehicles with millions of units (cars, trucks or vans) with extensive dealer networks, maintenance might be readily available. However, low volume, proprietary manufacturers are in another place. There is the pull of marketing hype and the demands and sometimes unrealistic expectations of purchasers. In RVs I have concluded that if the manufacturers claims are too good to be true, they probably are.
When one manufacturer promotes the hype, that puts pressure upon the marketing departments of other manufacturers. As a possible purchaser in such situations I ask myself "Is this a race to the top, or to the bottom, or total hyperbole?"
Some RV buyers may approach their purchase as it is a high volume automobile. That's a big mistake.
In the last decade, technology and in particular electronics has become predominant. One reason is because the cost of some electronics is now so low that manufacturers may go overboard when integrating it. For example, there is something called the IOT, which is the "Internet of things". This was facilitated by the invention of a website on a chip, and microprocessors for $1 as well as really inexpensive memory. In my experience of industrial automation, we purchased sensors such as temperature or pressure. They included a built in "web server". I could connect to a system with thousands of devices via the in plant (facility) network and I could interrogate each one. That began two decades ago.
Today local (nearby) communication is facilitated via other standards including bluetooth. For example, at our summer lily pad I monitor the amount of propane in the tank for our grill using a simple and inexpensive load cell device which is blue tooth enabled. I get a readout of the amount of propane in the tank on my Android cellphone. Alternately, I could use my old UPS spring-loaded scale, which is accurate to about 1/2 pound and a maximum of 75 lbs. No batteries to replace.
Modern automobiles and Roadtreks incorporate intelligent systems to monitor the entire chassis and that includes the radio. RV manufacturers can exploit this technology and use it to reduce wiring costs.
For example, in my 2013 210P the radio is powered up by an intelligent module called a "Scosche" module. When that module (which is a "bus controller" and is actually a micro controller about 1 inch x 3 inches x 1 inch) is sent a signal by the chassis computer that the engine is running, that module energizes a power relay which in turn provides 12VDC to the Fujitsu and TomTom GPS provided by Roadtrek.
That intelligent bus controller failed. When it did, the radio could not power up on engine start. It took a bit of research to determine what had failed. I got a replacement "Scosche" module, but installation required tearing the dashboard apart. So I put in an Off-On Toggle Switch.
Scosche module |
My point is, this technology has permeated our lives. We don't even realize the extent. The problem is the application in everything from Roadtreks to intelligent home thermostats. In a RV, this "intelligent" and "communicative" technology must be maintainable. It often isn't. For example, try to get your LED TV repaired. It was designed to be scrapped when it failed. Now translate that to the intelligent battery systems and chassis of a Roadtrek. Yes, those LiFEPO4 batteries have a BMS which is shorthand for "Battery Management System". That system does calculations and controls the charge and discharge of the battery. In complex systems batteries are interconnected and must communicate and share information. Even more complex RV systems integrate lead acid AGM batteries and Lithium Ion batteries. Wow!
A comment over at the FMCA Roadtrek group on my comment about our Roadtrek and which I also posted at this group:
"Norm:
Awesome monolog on the '13 210pC!
We bought with the same reasoning.
I am going to frame it and hang it over the entrance!"
(c) 2021 N. Retzke
Wall Street Journal Article - September 19, 2021 |
If you have a WSJ online account, or know someone who does, this article series may be of interest. Here's a brief excerpt and I've included a link in this post.
The Wall Street Journal echoes what I've been telling people for years. First, not everyone is cut out for this, and some vandwellers may do this because they see no alternative.
For those who decide to "dive in" I also suggest that one consider longevity of the engine, transmission and other chassis and coach components before purchasing a used vehicle. Yes, there are Class B RV's, specifically Roadtreks on Dodge and Chevy chassis that are 30 years old, are running and some are for sale. But one has to be realistic when purchasing such a vehicle. Yes, the sale price may only be $16,000 but one should expect some maintenance issues. Even 21 year old Roadtreks are being sold for $30,000. My 2013 210P could probably be sold for about $68,000, which is the current going price at:
https://www.roadtrekchapter.org/roadtreks-for-sale/
Roadtrek 190, 2000 model year, 138,000 miles, sale price $30,000 |
I advocate renting before buying, but I also advocate that one have a real purpose and plan before purchasing. G and I made the decision jointly and it would not have happened if she was not sufficiently on board. We did have concerns. But we also realized that expression: "Life Begins at the End of Our Comfort Zone". In fact, when we purchased our Roadtrek 210P G took a photo of me accepting the keys and she remarked "This will transform our lives". And it has, in many good ways.
I was a ground camper with experience backpacking, wilderness canoeing and tent camping from -25F to +100F, so Roadtreking was a real comfort improvement. My work experience included outdoor environments of -65F wind chills and the Arabian desert, the swamps of Louisiana, the Florida Everglades and even hurricane Hugo and the events leading up to and the aftermath of Katrina; I left NOLA on the last flight out prior to hurricane landfall. Then, I returned to rebuild industry back to normal. Yep, RVing would definitely be a glamping experience. I'm going to digress for a few paragraphs and then return to the theme of this post. The reader can skip ahead to the main theme of this post.
Some reminiscences of hurricane Katrina.
Hazmat garbed worker, cleaning out the office after Katrina |
Returning to the theme of this post and the WSJ article
I did spent a lot of time, years actually, researching this RV lifestyle. I researched, discussed thoroughly with G and provided her with online resources. Using our conclusions we rented a Class B and learned from that experience; I had never before had any kind of RVing experience, other than walking around a few shows.
Morning Coffee in Arches National Park from our Rental RV |
When we purchased the Roadtrek 210P in December 2013 I took a year to climb under it, took some of it apart, and studied all the manuals including the various bits and pieces, while we trekked when time was available. We've transitioned to full timers but still maintain a "sticks and bricks" abode I call my "furniture storage unit". It has taken time to transition to full time RVing and downsize and throw out, donate and give away a lot of stuff.
A sampling of the manuals provided with our Roadtrek. I downloaded even more. |
I took on the Roadtrek as a long term project. It was about management by objective, an arcane philosophy.
After purchase of the Roadtrek we took an inventory of all of the stuff in the coach. We logged manufacturer, model and serial numbers. I then downloaded dozens of specific maintenance manuals for everything I could find, from the furnace to the Tripplite inverter-charger to the 3-way refrigerator and Onan generator and all of the electrical components, etc. I read and studied them all and compared to what was actually in the Roadtrek. It was an education and it still is. I evaluated the purpose of each and every component and how they each contributed to our trekking experience. I identified possible improvements and the weak links in the chain. I then implemented improvements to strengthen the whole so as to make our trekking a better experience. Of course cost of improvements was a consideration. My thorough, methodical and cost-conscious approach has resulted in a better RV and better trekking experiences. I put what I can in this blog.
RVing is for us a life of continuous education and discovery. For me, I approached home ownership the same way, and maintained and improved the house and condo I owned using "sweat equity". I've remodeled entire bathrooms and kitchens, for example. Added a Japanese Garden, expanded a garage to add a work room-potting shed, etc., etc., etc. All of this provided me with more and more skills layered on top of my work experience which included finance, business, electrical, mechanical, very high tech and so on.
I began this blog to share what I have learned, etc. For our Roadtrek I purchased spare parts and made a number of improvements slowly and incrementally, in part based up our trek when we rented a Sprinter based Class B, things about the Roadtrek which we identified before purchase decision, and then using our travel and living experiences. We have lived in it for up to 110 continuous days, and we have no illusions about the limitations or the benefits of the ownership and lifestyle. We also understand the financial costs of ownership and maintenance. I keep a maintenance log and I am of the opinion that these costs have been acceptable. There is a cost-benefit analysis to make and to consider.
It is to be expected that the more we drive, the higher the operating and maintenance costs. We balance the cost of driving with the cost of camping. For example, at 15MPG, a 300 mile driving day consumes 20 gallons of gas. At $3 per gallon, that's $60 per day, plus the wear and tear on engine, transmission and consumables such as tires, oil, brakes, shocks and so on. If stationary we live in a camper which was not designed for full time living, yet we have camped with nighttime lows of about 5F and daytime highs of about 103F (in the shade) and we have done so for up to 110 continuous days. I continued to work remotely from the Roadtrek while we did this.
In view of our expectations for our treks, we decided that it makes more sense to us to travel a reasonable distance and then camp for a while. But that's merely our perspective, and I suggest that one of the ways to create a positive experience is to have have reasonable and realistic expectations and then a payback for each trek, be it a unique location, something of historical significance, or a fun restaurant or even a resort campground. We design a purpose and outcomes and then strive to achieve them.
Another component is to learn from our experiences. Our Roadtrek is not an automobile, although it is extremely comfortable. Bouncing down the highway does stress the coach components. So it is to be expected that things will break. We save and prepare for future maintenance and we do know the proper maintenance intervals. The Roadtrek is built on a well-known Chevrolet 3500 chassis. There is a wealth of information available for that vehicle. With all of the internet resources available, the FMCA Roadtrek Chapter and various forums, there also a wealth of information available for the modified coach. Caveat: there is also a lot of baloney and some mis-information, too. Critical thinking skills are a real plus for the RV owner.
"𝗪𝗼𝗿𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗟𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝗮𝗻 𝗥𝗩 𝗖𝗮𝗺𝗽𝗲𝗿: 𝗪𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗦𝘁𝗮𝗿𝘁 - 𝗟𝗶𝗳𝗲 𝗼𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗿𝗼𝗮𝗱 𝗰𝗮𝗻 𝗯𝗲 𝘃𝗲𝗿𝘆 𝗿𝗲𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴. 𝗕𝘂𝘁 𝗶𝘁 𝗽𝗮𝘆𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝗸𝗻𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗱𝗶𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗰𝘂𝗹𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗰𝗮𝗻 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗲𝗰𝘁." - WSJ Sept. 19, 2021
"...Yes, we have talked with retirees who have taken this route, most of whom find life, and work, on the road immensely rewarding. But they also caution that rookies need to navigate, simultaneously, two steep learning curves: how to live successfully in an RV, and how to think and operate (as one expert told us) like a “nomadic entrepreneur.”
To start, we’ll assume that you and your wife—as almost every expert recommends—already have rented an RV for one or two weeks (or, better, one or two months) to gauge whether living in a vehicle does, in fact, agree with you.
“It sounds romantic,” says Joel Cawley, a 61-year-old retired IBM executive who began RVing in 2020 and now writes books from his Winnebago. “But you don’t think about all the practicalities involved.”
Mr. Cawley offers a partial list:
Learning how to maneuver the vehicle. (“Gas stations are tricky,” he says.)
Mastering (and, ideally, being able to repair, as needed) an RV’s various electrical and mechanical systems, particularly Internet access.
Finding the balance between travel and stationary days.
Deciding what you’re going to use to explore and run errands while your RV is parked. (This will help you decide what type of RV to buy in the first place.)
For beginners, Mr. Cawley says, “there’s plenty to stress about.”..........."
Here's a link to the article, which contains links to other resources:
https://www.wsj.com/articles/working-living-in-rv-camper-what-to-know-11631735215?
WSJ.com content copyrighted by the Wall Street Journal 2020
Roadtrek210.blogspot.com (c) 2021
Remote Diagnostic - Battery - Sept 2021 |
Monitoring a vehicle which is parked off the grid
When I purchased the Roadtrek 210P I stored it at a commercial lot a few miles away. This was necessary because it could not fit in my garage and the Homeowner's Association I lived in had a rule which prohibits RVs on the property.
I investigated several options and decided to purchase a HUM which is owned by Verizon. This included a OBD transmitter to monitor the vehicle and a "black box" which transmits the information to me via the cellular telephone network. It does include vehicle location monitoring, too
To replace power drained by the onboard vehicle computer I was using a small solar panel placed on the dashboard. This proved to be inadequate with HUM upgrades which increased monitoring frequency transmissions. So I upgraded to a 30W solar panel with built-in controller. The new panel was able to keep the battery level up and I seldom got a "battery voltage" alert.
However, with the vehicle battery approaching 9 years of age, the battery would not hold a charge. This resulted in a 12V battery voltage while the solar panel was in the sun. At night the vehicle battery voltage began dropping off. A couple of weeks ago the battery died and the low voltage declined to about 10.5 Volts. Oh, Oh! That's a dead battery. I received several days of alerts and I replaced the battery. I received the alerts because in sun, the solar provided sufficient power to get the battery to about 12.3 VDC, but that is too low a voltage to properly recharge the battery.
There was no indication of an unusual load, but I disabled (turned off) the Battery Separator to be certain it wasn't cycling or powering up. My Roadtrek has two solar panel systems; one for the vehicle battery and another for the coach batteries. So there is no need to connect the two when the vehicle is stored and stationary.
As can be seen in the photo above, the battery voltage is reported as "stable" and during full sun the battery voltage while charging reaches about 13.5VDC. On cloudy days the voltage decreases to about 13.2 VDC. The vehicle was in use until September 14. It has been stationary and off the grid since September 15. The chart above shows the battery voltage during solar charge and also during nighttime. The vehicle is pointed easterly and the solar panel gets direct sun in late morning to early afternoon, if it is a cloudless day. The 12.82 VDC reading above was taken as the sun was rising but obscured by a building to the east. Some solar energy was available, but not full sun.
Overnight the vehicle battery voltage, with no solar available is about 12.75VDC, just before dawn (typical reading 7:00am). A fully charged 12V lead-acid vehicle battery is in the range of 12.5 to 12.7 VDC.
(c) 2021 Roadtrek210.blogspot.com
Making coffee in the morning in the "Solar powered" Class B Must turn off the hot water heater before using the burner! Outside ambient: 20F, Inside: chilly! |
Realistic expectations
We trek and we have spent up to 100+ continuous days in our Roadtrek. But first, we rented a "100% electric" solar powered Sprinter coach and took it to the National Parks in Utah. It was mid-October 2013. Nighttime temperatures were about 20F. It was a good test of how well a solar powered, electric coach would perform. That was our purpose in choosing it, and I wanted to see how the BlueTec engine performed, etc.
From a comfort perspective, it was not ideal, and G had to ask "How is it that one would spend $100K to buy this?" Adequate if the ambient temperature was in the range 50F to 80F and if one wasn't parked in the full sun during the daylight hours. Otherwise uncomfortable. The Sprinter had sufficient batteries and solar, and a large inverter, but it did have power limitations. For example, we couldn't use the electric cooktop and simultaneously make hot water for bathing or cleaning. For comfort heat it had a 1500 W electric heater, which was not adequate at below freezing, nighttime temperatures. There was no propane. It was a Mercedes camping experience as we slept in sleeping bags.
However, that experience allowed us to make a more realistic list of "must haves" and after reviewing these and discussing the Sprinter and our experience, we purchased a Roadtrek 210P which uses multiple fuels for coach amenities. After the Roadtrek financial bankruptcy, the 210P is no longer made, which is a shame.
I'm not going to repeat my earlier posts, in particular the one about our experience and decision to purchase the 210P. I do have earlier posts on solar, batteries, etc.
Solar Power and Batteries
We purchased a new Roadtrek a bit sooner than would have been ideal at the time. We were both working and had very limited time for trekking. On the other hand, the price in December 2013 was really good, with a steep discount. So, we purchased it. Because we live in a HOA and our garage cannot accommodate the Roadtrek we had to store it, and the largest issue was keeping the chassis and coach batteries fully charged. I did run the generator monthly. The 210P did not have solar.
To keep the chassis battery fully charged, I purchased a 50W solar panel and controller. That's documented in a earlier post. I selected a de-sulfating controller. That was in Spring of 2014.
I mounted the solar controller adjacent to the coach batteries, and I decided I wanted a "portable" panel, because when it is hot it is preferable to park in the shade. My approach allowed us to charge the batteries during the day while we were comfy. The cable connecting the solar panel to the controller is about 20 ft long and is coiled and placed under the passenger seat when we are in movement.
The Coach Solar
The 24" x 24" 50 watt panel is stored behind the drivers seat when we are travelling. Why only 50 watts?
I had evaluated our DC electrical power needs. Our Roadtrek 210P has a 2.8kW Onan gasoline generator. It also had multiple energy sources. For example, propane is the source for the furnace, hot water and a range top, as well as the third source for the 3-way refrigerator. All of the controls are 12VDC.
We have no interest in living "off the grid" for weeks while running the refrigerator and Air Conditioning or space heat using 3000 watts of batteries and solar panels. In fact, our 210P simply doesn't have enough roof space for all of those solar panels. 200W would be pushing the maximum roof space available. Our interest is charging the coach and chassis batteries, reducing but not replacing the amount of grid electricity we need and so on. This is because of practical considerations. Those considerations include roof area available or size of portable panels, battery considerations and cost.
What can we get if we maximize the roof panel? For example, 100W solar panels can produce about 5.6A. Depending on the orientation of the panel, the intensity of sunlight and the hours of direct sunlight received in a day, a 100W panel can generate 20- to 30-amp hours (Ah) daily. In fact, the amount of energy may be only half of this because of clouds, panel orientation and hours of daylight. 200W could provide a maximum of about 60-amp hours each day.
To charge the coach batteries using 120VAC and the Triplite charger-inverter requires anywhere from about 3.6A to 9.3A at 120VAC. To fully charge 50% depleted batteries can take 12 hours. At the lower charging rate using the Triplite 120VAC inverter-charger, 3.6A is a minimum used, or about 430 watts. I've measured the AC at the pole with everything off in the coach except charging via the Triplite. At a typical seasonal campground where we pay $0.14 per kWh; that's $1.45 per day to keep the coach batteries fully charged.
If the batteries are at 50% the AC required for charging can increase to 9.3A (1,116 Watts). The 50 watt panel can't do that. It can provide about 4.2A at 12 VDC.
The 50 watt solar panel is sufficient for my needs to keep the coach batteries fully charged under low load. If we need more charging current I can run the Onan generator, or run the vehicle. Running the vehicle will charge the chassis battery and, if the battery separator is closed the coach batteries will also charge.
If we need more 120VAC than the 750 watt inverter and batteries can provide while off the grid, we run the Onan generator. The generator uses 0.3 gallons of gasoline at half load. That's acceptable and in this manner we can recharge the coach batteries and run appliances. The Onan can provide sufficient AC for the heat pump/air conditioner.
Why a Portable (detached) solar panel?
I preferred a portable solar panel because we can park the Roadtrek in the shade and put the solar in the sun, and I can orient the panel for maximum DC energy. The de-sulfating solar controller I purchased is rated for 180W maximum panels. I can always upgrade to more solar. However, if I really want more solar, I'll probably mount a flexible panel on the roof and carry another 100W portable panel. In that way I could get up to 200W if parked in the sun or, at a minimum 100W if parked in the shade with the portable panel in the sun.
I've written about batteries in earlier posts. I don't like the low temperature charging limitations of Lithium-Ion batteries. Combined with the high cost, I don't see an overwhelming advantage for us. In my earlier posts I do go into greater detail about this.
50 Watt panel in full sun |
Charging at MI campground |
50 Watt behind the windshield The glass does reduce the efficiency, however, if facing the sun for half of the day the panel does keep the coach batteries fully charged. |
At the AZ "lily pad" the Roadtrek is under the roof. I place the portable solar panel on the roof. |
The Roadtrek is in the shade, while the solar panel is directly above, on the the roof, in full sun. |
30 Watt solar panel |
Chassis battery charging voltage on Solar, 13.1 VDC |
(c) 2021 Roadtrek210.blogspot.com.