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Solar Panels don't work when the Roadtrek is under cover. |
Solar system upgrade
Shortly after I purchased the Roadtrek I installed a portable solar panel and controller. I decided to use a portable panel because when camping in the summer I prefer a shady location. Solar panels don't work well in full shade, but the Roadtrek is far more comfortable when parked that way.
I installed the panel to keep the coach batteries charged when off the grid and in particular when storing the Roadtrek. Our boondocking experiences are short, so I don't need a lot of solar energy, preferring the Onan generator to run the AC appliances and Cool Cat heat pump.
Our winter "lily pad" is in Arizona and it can get quite warm, even in winter. Particularly if we are parked in full sun. When at the site in the photo above, the solar panel is on the roof overhead and so it is providing electricity most of the day, while the Roadtrek is in the shade.
When we are camping and park in the shade, the interior of the Roadtrek is generally whatever the ambient temperature is. If it is 78F, then the interior is 78F because we ventilate it. Of course, when trekking full shade is not always available. So, we are sometimes in partial shade and at other times in full sun. The benefits of rooftop solar is reduced because of the shade. Ergo the portable solar panel.
An opportunity for change
In recent years the quality of flexible Monocrystalline solar panels, their price and warranties have improved. We also have the benefit of the experiences of early adaptors who have experimented with a variety of mounting approaches and panels.
When I decided to replace the AGM coach batteries with Lithium-ion LiFePO4, I also had the opportunity for other improvements which included expanding the solar systems.
Of course, one of the challenges of a Class B is living with the space limitations of the interior and exterior compartments. I wasn't willing to use a lot of interior real estate to house batteries, the solar controller, wiring and etc.
Ultimately, I decided to mount the LiFePO4 battery in the outside compartment, install 12VDC and 120VAC heaters to warm the battery when the compartment temperature falls below 40F. I mounted the components and routed the wiring via a variety of nooks and crannies.
I've posted recently about the selection process and heaters, so I won't repeat that here. This post will focus on some of the other installation details.
Currently, the Roadtrek is under a shelter with limited space above. Furthermore, it was 96F yesterday, and today it is a balmy 91F in the shade. In this weather I won't be mounting the rooftop solar until we get to our lily pad in Michigan.
Instead, I concentrated on installing everything to support the portable solar panel, with some preparation for the rooftop solar.
Solar wiring and controller
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Solar MPPT Controller, battery voltage 13.3V |
I reviewed the available locations, the paths for the wiring of the heaters, the availability of 120VAC and so on. I decided to install the MPPT solar charge controller on available wall space adjacent to the TV in the rear of the coach. I installed a bulkhead fitting beneath the controller for plugging-in the portable solar panel. A second connector will be installed for the rooftop panel. There is also a 65A connector for the controller 12VDC output. I want to easily disconnect the controller if necessary for maintenance purposes.
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Bulkhead connector for solar panel wiring |
A matching connector was installed in the exterior compartment. This is where I plug-in the portable solar panel. I included a MC4 adapter. What remained to do was to route the solar cables to connect these bulkheads. I did come up with an approach to simultaneously use both rooftop and portable panels, if that is desired to collect more solar energy.
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Connector for portable solar panel |
The solar cable was routed from the exterior compartment, into the coach electrical compartment at the rear of the Roadtrek, and from there into the compartment adjacent to the interior fresh water tank. It was terminated on a fuse and terminal block and from there it was routed behind the fabric panel to the armoire and to the interior electrical bulkhead. I wanted to install a fuse and terminal blocks to provide access for future maintenance.
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Solar cable exiting exterior compartment and upward into coach electrical compartment |
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Portable solar panel cable in electrical compartment |
I routed the solar panel wiring from the electrical compartment to the terminal blocks installed adjacent to the interior fresh water tank. I removed the 12VDC wiring cover in the armoire. and pushed a solid 14AWG behind the fabric side panel, from the armoire to the fresh water tank compartment. I then used that to fish very flexible 18AWG. The 18AWG would be used to pull the solar cable through.
I soldered and taped the solar cables to the 18AWG so they could be pulled. Solder is a superior strength connection and smaller in diameter than a butt slice connector. This approach was necessary because the wiring was a tight fit.
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Solar cable prepared for pulling |
To give myself sufficient space to grab the wires in the wall I temporarily removed the fresh water tank fill line and pulled the solar wire through.
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Solar cable at fresh water tank |
To do the pull I removed the wiring cover inside the armoire and disconnected the cable for the power seat, at the UP-DOWN switch. This permitted me to move that cable out of the way.
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Power seat switch electrical connector in armoire |
I then pulled the solar cable into the armoire and connected it to the bulkhead connector.
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Solar cable into armoire. |
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Bulkhead cable connected to solar cable |
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Front of solar bulkhead connector on armoire below MPPT controller |
The mid-point of the solar cables were terminated in the compartment adjacent to the interior fresh water tank. This for maintenance purposes, and I did install a fuse on the solar panel positive.
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Solar terminated adjacent to interior fresh water tank |
I then put the armoire interior wiring cover back in place.
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Interior of armoire |
I terminated the12VDC power at the MPPT controller and powered it up. I then entered the necessary battery parameters. Prior to connecting the MPPT controller to the bulkhead solar connector I plugged-in the solar panel and checked the polarity at the bulkhead connector. Satisfied it was proper I plugged in the solar cable at the controller.
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Operational MPPT controller, 12VDC power and solar panel connected |
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Portable solar panel |
(c) 2022 N. Retzke
Notes:
- This is not a how-to-do-it post. I'm providing it as-is and it is not a recommendation or a procedure manual.
- I'll be installing a rooftop panel when I'm at my summer lily pad location.