10,000 miles in 9 months - Our "Tiny Home"

Well, in the last 9 months we've exceeded 10,000 miles in our camper vans. Some of this was in a rental and most was in a Roadtrek 210P. Let me say, we've thoroughly enjoyed this and one of my sons wants to go on a north woods fishing trip in July, which I am currently researching.

Our 9 months have provided some insights.

1. Our observations are based on periods which span two weeks of living continuously in a camper van. Between treks we return to home base. 
2. We really liked the rental  Sprinter. I recommend this option to anyone who wants a really fun, upgraded travel experience at a modest cost. 
3. We didn't like like the large sliding door and the limited interior width of the Sprinter. However, Roadtrek's Sprinter implementation via the CS-Adventurous appears to be quite nice.
4. We opted for a new, fully equipped 210P for about 40% less than the Sprinter. (Includes generator, electric king size bed, AGM batteries with inverter, rear mount spare and a solar system I installed). The Chevy based 210P offers a wider aisle, exterior spare at waist level and a 5 cu. ft. refrigerator with convection oven/microwave, heat pump, air conditioner, propane furnace and two fresh water tanks. Really nice for anyone who wants to spend weeks in national parks and on the road, and wants to do so with daylight temperatures from 20F to 110F. 
5. I am a former backpacker and "ground camper" who has camped in winter (-25F) and summer. For example,  I once canoed 90 miles in Quetico with boys of modest skills. I was sufficiently proficient that as a Scoutmaster I was awarded the BSA "District Award of Merit" for my numerous endeavors. My point in stating this is to emphasize that using a sophisticated camper van based on a Sprinter chassis or more recently the Roadtrek 210P is really travelling and camping in the "lap of luxury." 
6. I did some research into maintenance of the bluetec engine (which is a marvel). However, in the end is it about maintainability and cost per mile. In a Class B motorhome it is also about interior dimensions. Nor do I have any need for the "cache" of a Mercedes badge on the front of the vehicle. So the Chevy based 210P won. Not necessarily better. It's all about allocation of personal resources and amenities of the selected camper van. 
7. We've taken four treks ranging from about 1500 miles to 3500 miles each. 
8. Most of the 10,000 miles was in a Roadtrek 210P.
9. I've added a solar panel charger and solar panels to the RT, a Progressive Industries EMS  and an improved rear view camera system. Total cost less than $500. 
10. Future posts will also include some Quadcopter video. 
11. I am not retired. So doing all of this is a matter of balance. 

The next few posts will include our experiences on recent treks, a brief review of outdoor cooking options and the installation of the Progressive Industries "Energy management system."

AGM Batteries Sulfation, RV AGM Battery Care and Charging - Part 2

This is part 2 about care of AGM batteries in a "motor home." The previous post is part 1.

After a significant amount of research into the chemistry,  technology and charging of AGM batteries I became concerned about battery damage including sulfation and freezing the battery electrolyte. I want to achieve longer battery life and have 100% rated battery power available when I am off the grid and am not running the generator. I decided I needed to make an improvement and installed a solar panel and solar controller-battery charger for my coach batteries. This post looks more closely at the research that led to my decision. I'll provide in brief the why's, as well as some of the "do's and don'ts." I am not promoting any product here. This describes the issues and the solution I chose, and provides background information about that decision. This may be helpful to others.

I chose a 50 watt solar panel and a "Solar Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator" rated for use with solar systems up to 180 Watts. The solar panel is not used when the vehicle is in motion. I decided on this approach because:

1. The replacement price of the coach batteries would be about $250.00-$400.00
2. The Camper Van may be stored for weeks and sometimes for months
3. It's desired to achieve the maximum life from the coach batteries
4. It's desired to have the batteries provide the maximum rated power throughout their life
5. When stored,  120V shore power is not available. Solar power is the only available power option unless the generator or vehicle motor is running.

The following post provides, in brief, what I have learned on this subject and how what I learned has influenced my decision  Why would I want to do this? I'd like to spare the reader the time to replicate what I have researched.

How to Achieve Full Life and Power from AGM Batteries
That is the goal. Get maximum power and longest life from the AGM coach batteries. Doing so should provide a more pleasurable trekking experience and reduce the annual cost of operating the camper van.

Deep Cycle AGM Batteries require complete charging, but not overcharging to achieve full lifespan, avoid freezing damage and provide the amount of power expected from them.

Roadtrek states in their 2014 210P manual "AGM Battery Warranty....... is voided if AGM batteries are tampered with, topped off with distilled water or allowed to sulfate or freeze due to lack of charge."

Here are the most important things that dictate battery life:

• Preventive maintenance
• Depth-of-Discharge (avoid discharge below 75% charged)
• Charging to a full charge
• Temperature conditions of the batteries (cooler is better). Batteries are designed for an average annual temperature of 77F (25C). If the average annual temperature is 95F (35C) then the battery life will be reduced by about 50 percent. 

What is full life? It varies. 3-5 years is fairly typical according to published information. However, AGM batteries are reputed to achieve up to 10 years if properly maintained, kept cool and if used in such a manner to maximize battery life. I decided I would prefer to replace these batteries every 6-8 years instead of every three years. I also decided I do want the maximum battery power to be available when needed.

Avoiding Sulfation and Extending Battery Life
Sulfation if left unchecked will kill the coach batteries. Sulfation begins when the batteries are not fully charged, and storing them unless "float charged" continues the sulfation process. The RT and most RVs include charging systems for the coach batteries. However, there are periods in which these 120V or engine and generator powered charging systems are not available. That is a problem. So how can I achieve my stated goal of long life at maximum power from these batteries under my actual storage and charging conditions?

Frequent charging while avoiding overcharging of AGM batteries will reduce, but not eliminate sulfation. Sulfation occurs each time a battery is discharged. Storing a battery is reputed to cause self-discharge and sulfation, and this is more serious at higher temperatures, above 75F.  Batteries which are not used weekly may experience sulfation.

Sulfation is the gradual coating of the positive lead plate of the battery with lead sulfate (PbSO4). Simultaneously the battery electrolyte, which is sulfuric acid (H2SO4) on losing SO4 molecules becomes diluted by water. This occurs during battery discharge. The chemistry is oxygen molecules (O2) from the positive lead plate combine with hydrogen molecules (H2) from the battery acid and the result is water (H2O).

Because AGM batteries are chemical devices, cold weather will slow the sulfation process while hot weather speeds it up. In other words, full charging may be more important at higher temperatures. On the other hand, as sulfation occurs battery electrolyte (acid) is diluted by water molecules and will freeze at lower temperatures than the normal electrolyte of a fully charged battery. Such freezing can damage the battery.

Normal charging does not remove all sulfate molecules from the plates. Over time they build up on the plate and ultimately contribute to the demise of the battery. Sulfation, or the formation of lead sulfate can permanently reduce battery capacity. If unchecked it can kill the battery.

Keeping batteries fully charged and reducing sulfation will extend the life of the batteries and provide optimum capacity. Battery life expectancy is directly the result of how well these batteries are maintained and how they are used (or abused). Key points are:

• Don't overcharge.
• Don't undercharge
• Keep fully charged and don't store undercharged.
• Use and keep the batteries at their average design temperature.  
• Apply a periodic full-saturation charge to de-sulfate the batteries.
• Don't over-deplete; reduce the average "depth of discharge." and avoid "deep discharge".
• Reduce the number of "discharge-charge" cycles. 
• Don't charge if over 120F and don't charge if the battery is frozen. 

Some of the above might not be possible. That is why many batteries don't survive for more than 3 years according to some published sources. However, I'm convinced that good care and attention to these details will extend battery life for most users. One manufacturer of battery chargers/maintainers/desulphators claims that certain models of their product "can more than double the useful life of new batteries." I can't verify that. However, it's prudent to ask why some batteries fail within 3 years while others go on for 6 or more years.

It is my understanding there are two types of sulfation: 1) reversible (soft sulfation), and 2) permanent (hard sulfation). Reversible sulfation is normal and can be corrected by a specific charging regimen. When charging, the PbSO4 is converted to lead and the SO4 combines with hydrogen to form electrolyte. Non-reversible sulfation occurs when a battery has been in a discharged condition, or "low state-of-charge" for a longer period, be it weeks or months. In such a state the sulfate crystals become permanent, cannot be reversed by charging methods and the capacity of the battery is permanently reduced and impaired.

Charging and Reducing or Reversing Sulfation
Special charging techniques are reputed to reverse sulfation.  Battery charging states include:

• Bulk (high, constant current)
• Absorption (constant voltage)
• Float (hold at 100% charge)
• Equalization.(controlled absorption overcharge)
• De-sulfation

A microprocessor "smart" charger will include three or four of these states. Special chargers provide a fifth state called "de-sulfation." One charger manufacturer declares "Patented high-frequency pulse desulfation is designed to reverse and eliminate battery sulfation."

There is some controversy about the claims of "reversing sulfation." One critic states "simple, electronic de-sulfation is a one size fits all approach." On the other hand, I've seen no comments or evidence that such pulse desulfation techniques can harm the batteries.

How to Apply a "Full Saturation" Charge
Such a charge is a general recommendation for lead acid batteries. However, some AGM battery manufacturers have specific requirements of this type of charge and if not followed it is possible to damage the batteries. This type of charge is also called an "Equalizing" charge. This is done by a deliberate overcharge of the batteries. The problem with sealed AGM batteries is there is no way to measure the electrolyte condition and so the equalizing charge is guesswork and may be based on terminal voltage. My guess is it's better to use a good 4-stage charger and avoid deep discharges.

Choosing a Battery Charger
The charger included in your RV or camper van is probably a three-stage "smart" charger which includes bulk, absorption and float stages.  "Float" charging is not "trickle" charging; a trickle charger can overcharge batteries!

I decided to add a "Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator" which was designed for use with solar panels. I also selected a solar panel which is overcapacity. This approach compensates for the lowered solar power that is available when daylight is minimized, such as during winter hours or when overcast. It also provides for a higher charging rate when there is optimal sunlight available.

Using a 50 watt solar panel provides a maximum 4.17 amperes of charging current at 12V during peak sunlight conditions. That's more than sufficient for maintaining or topping off the batteries.

Overcharging is to be avoided. I decided to use a solar charger that includes temperature compensation with float charging. The temperature sensor is attached to one of the battery terminals. This permits charging in cold and hot weather. The manufacturer states compensation works over the range 0F to 130F.

The solar charging system is only used when the batteries are not being charged via 120V shore power, generator power or via a running vehicle engine. It is intended to be used at any time the vehicle is stationary. The solar charger is connected directly to the batteries and operates independent of the position of the battery disconnect switch.

How Long Does it Take to Charge the Batteries?
The answer to that question is determined by the amount of sunlight available and the condition of the batteries. The purpose of the solar charger is to take the batteries from a condition of 85% to 90% charged to full charge, or apply a "topping" charge. Once at full charge, the goal is to "float" and desulfate the batteries while avoiding overcharge. Temperature compensation reduces the float charge as the battery temperature increases.

To bring a discharged battery to full charge can take 7 to 10 hours or longer. That is not the purpose of the solar system, but if there is sufficient daylight hours such charging is a possibility.

How Does "Depth of Discharge" Influence Battery Life?
Any AGM battery has a service life which is measured in number of discharges and the "depth of discharge." As a rule of thumb, the less the "depth of discharge" the longer the life of the battery, but it should be discharged to 90% peak when used. In other words, if used the battery should be discharged 10% and  a battery which is repeatedly used and discharged to 50% of its peak capacity and then completely recharged may be usable for 1000 cycles. If one cycle occurs each day, then the battery may have a life of 3 years.

That same battery, if discharged to 75% of its peak capacity each day and then fully recharged may be usable for 2000 cycles. Under such conditions the battery may have a life of 6 years.

Furthermore, that same battery if discharged to 25% of its peak capacity each day and then fully recharged may be usable for 500 cycles. Under such conditions the battery may have a life of only 16 months. Discharging a battery to less than 25% capacity is to be avoided.

What are Battery Storage Choices?
Batteries can be disconnected and then charged if they are not going to be used for long periods of time. It's best to store the battery in a cool or cold place (sulfation is slowed when it is below 75F). Here's a few methods:

1. Turn the battery switch "off" and then connect a 3- or 4- stage microprocessor controlled battery charger and fully charge the battery. If the charger includes an automatic "float" mode it can be left connected to the battery for long periods of time. Check your manufacturer. 
2. If the battery is fully charged connect a "float" charger, again check your manufacturer.
3. Alternately, the battery can be removed in the vehicle and kept above freezing while a float charge is applied. 

Avoiding the Freezing of Batteries
If the electrolyte in a lead acid battery freezes, the battery will probably be damaged. The capacity of such a damaged battery will be reduced. What are the freezing temperatures of a depleted battery? A battery in good condition that is 100% charged has the maximum concentration of sulfuric acid as electrolyte. As the battery discharges, the concentration of the acid is reduced as water molecules replace acid molecules in the electrolyte. Here are typical freezing temperatures for lead acid batteries at different charge states:

100% Charged = (-) 77F, or (-) 67C.
75% Charged = (-) 35F or (-) 37C
50% Charged = (-) 10F or (-) 23C

Other Sources
There are a lot of web based sources on AGM battery maintenance and charging. Enter  "AGM battery maintenance", "AGM battery charging" or "AGM Battery desulfation" in your favorite search engine and you'll get a list.

AGM Coach Battery Issues - Do It Yourself Solar Charging

This post looks at achieving the maximum life and performance from AGM batteries and also the steps an owner who doesn't have access to 24/7 120V charging power can take to keep the batteries in his/her "motor home" at full charge. It includes some of the background information I used to decide on solar power for charging batteries, and it includes a short video.

The Problem
Many motor homes and camper vans include coach batteries. Depending upon how many batteries are included and their capacity, they can be used for powering many things. Typical uses include the water pump, interior and exterior lighting, the refrigerator and small appliances via an inverter. Some motor homes include solar panels for recharging of these batteries. Some do not.

Absorbent Glass Matt batteries, or AGM batteries are very different from the old lead-acid and gelled electrolyte batteries. AGM batteries have a thin fiberglass mat or screen between the lead plates. The fiberglass mat is saturated with acid and is compressed and sandwiched between the plates. This tight packing makes the interior components tolerant of vibration. They are ideal for use in moving vehicles.  Many AGM batteries include bolt-on terminals which are reputed to give a more reliable connection.

AGM batteries are not cheap, but the best ones can last longer than other, less costly batteries. Perhaps 5 to 8 years if given proper attention.

As with all things, there are pros and cons. This post will look into some of these. Part 2 will delve more deeply into batteries. This post addresses the need to keep AGM batteries fully charged.

AGM - Are all Deep Cycle?
Not all AGM batteries are alike. Some are designed to be what is called a "deep cycle" battery and others are not.  So what is a "deep cycle" battery? Such a battery is designed to be discharged and recharged many times. "Deep Cycle" means the battery can be discharged to a lower level of peak capacity and recover. Some manufacturer's state that a deep cycle battery will last three to four times longer than a starting battery under the same conditions.

The batteries I am concerned about are deep cycle batteries.

Advantages of AGM Deep Cycle Batteries
If properly maintained, these are some of the advantages of these batteries:

• Improved resistance to shock and vibration
• Totally sealed
• Reliable
• No acid fumes
• No spilled acid
• No need to add water
• If fully charged can tolerate freezing temperatures (temperatures as low as -40F, but check with your battery manufacturer)
• Longer life as compared to a starting battery

How Do I Maintain a Deep Cycle AGM Battery?
That's a good question and as these are expensive batteries they do need to be properly maintained to achieve their full design life. These are sealed batteries so there is no water to add. Does that mean that the battery is "maintenance free?" No, it does not.

So what do I have to do? Most important is to keep these batteries properly charged! For motor homes or campers which are plugged in each day, this should be rather easy because these vehicles include chargers powered by the 120V shore power. Some vehicles charge the coach batteries when the vehicle engine is running. Others include solar charging systems. Some vehicles include all of the above and a gasoline or propane generator which can also recharge the batteries! However, sulfation remains a problem in lead-acid batteries. More on that later.

The two things to do to achieve long life from AGM deep cycle batteries are:

1. Recharge daily to a full charge.
2. Don't discharge too low. Don't fully discharge.

Is AGM Battery Maintenance Important?
Yes it is. Roadtrek has this statement in the current 210P manual:

AGM Battery Warranty Batteries are warranted by the battery manufacturer for one year from the "In Service Date" of the Roadtrek. 

1. Warranty is voided if AGM batteries are tampered with, topped off with distilled water or allowed to sulfate or freeze due to lack of charge. 

So there you have it. Owners must keep their coach batteries charged. Roadtrek has specific instructions about this for dealers, too. Here's two photos showing the stickers on a 2013 210P. The notice about the "Deep Cycle Gel Battery" is specific (this Roadtrek did have AGM batteries):

Charging AGM Batteries When Storing the Motor Home
For anyone who stores their motor home for long periods of time, there are only three ways to get the power necessary to charge the batteries:

1. Shore Power - 120V plug-in connection.
2. Solar Power.
3. Frequent vehicle or generator use. 

However, not all storage facilities include the necessary 120V power for charging, and not all motor homes include a solar power charging system. If you are like many who store their motor homes, you may not start and use the vehicle for two, four or more weeks. Is this a problem? Yes it is. So what to do? One possibility is to remove the batteries and charge them in your garage. However, that might not be easy as these weigh about 70 lbs. each. I decided the most effective method to allow storing the vehicle outdoors with the batteries inside was to install a solar panel and a solar battery charger. That's what I did, and I place the solar panel inside the vehicle when in use for charging. No rooftop installation required! A video is included in this post.

Solar Power Charger and Sulfation
When the batteries are not being drained by daily use, it's possible to keep them charged if there is sufficient solar energy (daylight) available. For anyone who only has access to solar energy during vehicle storage, this might be the only way for daily recharging.

Will using solar energy and a charger avoid sulfation and are there other issues? In a later post I'll give a more thorough description of what sulfation is. For now, suffice it to say that during battery discharge sulfate molecules (SO4) move from the battery acid (electrolyte) to a lead plate to form crystals of lead sulfate (PbSO4). This is called "sulfation." This interferes with the ability of the battery to perform. It reduces battery capacity, which is simply stated the amount of power a battery can provide. Less power means you run out of power for your camper van electrical devices sooner than expected.

A second problem is as the battery discharges the acid concentration decreases and the electrolyte changes slowly to water. This makes the battery electrolyte more susceptible to freezing. Freezing can damage the battery. Uh, Oh!

What Type of Solar Controller-Charger?
I decided to purchase a controller which the manufacturer states has the following features:

• Full-time automatic battery desulphation
• Uses US Patented pulse battery desulfation technology
• One year unconditional money back warranty and five year "no hassle" warranty on parts & labor
• Plug and run operation - fully automatic easy efficient operation
• Never over-charges - you can keep it plugged in for weeks, months, even a year 
• Temperature compensation - prevents over and under charging from freezing to 130 degrees
• Solar battery charger maximizes battery life and capacity and reconditions weak batteries. Maintains up to 2 batteries at a time. Short circuit, spark and polarity protection. 
• When used as a maintainer....is guaranteed to maximize your battery's life and storage capacity. 

Installation Issues
Finding a convenient place to install the controller and near the batteries can be challenging. The charger manufacturer states "....it is important the controller be in the same general temperature environment as the battery(s)." The temperature sensor lead length is not to be altered and that placed a further restriction. I decided I didn't want  a rooftop mounting of the solar panels at this time. I concluded that a larger wattage solar panel could be put on the dash to charge the batteries via a solar controller-charger. I decided on a 50 watt panel because this would provide sufficient power under lower light and reduced daylight hours, such as in winter or with the windshield not clean. It would allow the controller to charge the batteries even on overcast days. I also wanted simplified controller mounting and wiring.

The manufacturer of the charger-controller says this about mounting the solar controller-charger:

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON USING PRODUCT OUTDOORS: Weather-tight enclosure. Always mount units in vertical position with cord sets exiting downward to ensure weather tight integrity. Unit must be mounted this way to ensure long term trouble-free life including weatherproof integrity. Mounting in any other manner or using unmounted (parallel to ground) except indoors may cause unit to fail due to water intrusion that is unable to drain correctly to avoid damage. 

Installing a Solar Charging System
So how to go about this? Three things are necesary:

1. Solar Panel
2. Solar Controller - Charger
3. Interconnecting cables

Here is a photo of the battery compartment of a Roadtrek 210P, model year 2013. It shows two AGM batteries. As you can see the battery compartment is very tight:

Here's a brief video of the installation of a Solar Battery Condition Charger and Controller with a 50-Watt solar panel:

Rear View Camera Installation - Part 3

Update November 2018. I replaced the monitor with a duplicate this month.

This is Part 3 of a 3-part post about installing a rear view camera and monitor.

This part provides some information about the wiring for powering up the monitor via selector switch. I did only slight editing and so this is a bit longer than is necessary.

The photo shows the original GPS, the new monitor and the toggle switches. The right-most switch powers the 7-inch color monitor and wireless receiver. When the switch is in the "UP" position these are powered "ON" and the green LED is illuminated.

Test before Installing
Let me emphasize that it is extremely important to test everything before installing. This includes the camera, transmitter/receiver, monitor and any switch panel. Failure to do so can extend the time required by a substantial amount. It is also possible to do very expensive damage.

I estimate my total time for this project was about 8 hours. This includes the time spent reviewing different camera systems by different suppliers, the final selection process and the ordering and arrangement for filming as well as the actual installation time. Time was reduced by preparation of sketches before any wiring, thorough research of the existing camera system, and a careful check of the existing chassis wiring. Time was increased by the video filming. However, I did not include the time to put together this blog.

GPS and New Rear-View Monitor

Components
To provide some idea of what is required, here is a basic parts list for a single toggle switch installation:

1. Two-Position maintained contact toggle switch (I used a three position switch).
2. Green LED rated 12 VDC.
3. 1/2 watt resistor to limit the current through the LED.  680 Ohms recommended by LED manufacturer. 
4. Terminal Strip
5. Miscellaneous #18AWG wire in various colors (red, white, black, yellow)
6. Solder and soldering iron
7. Wire tags, wire ties, crimp-on terminals
8. Hand tools, drill, volt-ohmmeter, electrical tape, 12 volt battery for final system testing before installation. 

Alternative Approach
One can also use a simple cigarette-lighter plug which is available for about $5.00. This eliminates the switch panel, reduces the cost and substantially reduces the assembly time.

The Video

Rear View Camera Installation - Part 2

Update November 2018. I replaced the monitor with a duplicate this month.

I've been asked what I used, who the supplier was, how much it cost. and also a point was raised about possible problems with wireless cameras.

The following video shows some of the wiring issues for installing the monitor and provides further details about the actual install. There will be a part 3, which provides further details about the installation of the control switches. However, I do suggest that most readers consider using a simple "cigarette lighter" plug to power the receiver and monitor. I recommend this for several reasons:

1. The installed cost will be lower. 
2. The amount of work will be less. 

Before proceeding, I also want to address the following:

1. Question: Why haven't I published a parts list? Answer: This blog is not a specific recommendation for a specific product. I am willing to send an email to anyone who requests this information. However, I cannot certify or provide any warranty for products made by someone else and purchased or installed by the reader. 
2. Q: Why did I go wireless? A: Primary reason is to avoid running wiring from the front of the camper van to the rear. For older units which are out of warranty, this might be an acceptable solution. For a camper van which is under the CV manufacturer's warranty, making certain modifications might void a warranty. The changes I made were to the chassis and chassis electrical. There was no hole drilling in the coach section or running of wires through the camper coach. That should keep Roadtrek or whomever happy. 
3. Q: Are there issues with wireless transmitters and receivers for cameras? A: I can't say that I've encountered any to date with the units I purchased. These use technology similar to some of the wireless home phones, which has improved significantly in recent years. That said, I haven't stored the camper van at 0F or cooked it at 110F with the system installed. I will, of course, remove the monitor when not in use. How the camera and transmitter/receiver pair will fare over time is anyone's guess. I also need to state that I deliberately chose a transmitter/receiver rated 10 meters (about 33 feet maximum separation) and I also took steps to minimize anything between the transmitter/receiver pair which would reduce or interfere (attenuate) the signal. The actual separation is about 18 feet and with little or no metal to attenuate the signal.
4. Q: Do you recommend this procedure over the manufacturer's? A:  Certainly not. This is intended as an enhancement. I suspect that most camper van owners decide at one time or another to get enhancements or make limited improvements. That may be as simple as a water pressure regulator, a surge protector, or a better rear view camera system. 

So enjoy the video. Part 3 will show certain aspects of the toggle/selector switch fabrication.

Rear View Camera Installation

Update November 2018. I replaced the monitor with a duplicate this month.


The Roadtrek 210 came with an integral GPS and rear-view camera. The camera was wired to power-up when the vehicle is put in reverse. In my opinion these types of vehicles have serious obstructions of the rear view. Vans, be they MB Sprinters or Chevy Express vans have large central columns where the two rear doors join. Many of these vehicles also have rear couches and seats which further obstruct the rear view. This is not a problem limited to Roadtreks. It's inherent in the design of these vehicles which have been adapted for use as camper vans.

The solution is a good rear view camera with depth gauge, night (dusk) vision and color which can be used while the vehicle is in forward motion. I decided to add one. This photo shows the result. The gPS is to the left and the new rear-view monitor is to the right This will be one of several posts on the camera and monitor installation. The installation was not too difficult. There is a video at the end of this post which shows how a wireless camera was installed. Note, however, that 12VDC power is required and this is shown in the video. The next post on this subject will show the installation of the monitor.

GPS and New Rear-View Monitor

Selection of Components
I decided to make the install as simple as possible but I did have some requirements. To simplify I avoided front to rear wiring. I decided to use a wireless system and I selected the core components from two suppliers, with miscellaneous parts from a third.

1. Color Camera rear license mounted with (8) IR LEDs.
2. 7 inch color monitor with swivel mount.
3. Wireless transmitter and receiver.
4. Miscellaneous, including wire, two toggle switches, two green LED indicators, terminal block, etc. 

I purchased the components from three suppliers:

1. Amazon retailer for camera and monitor.
2. Amazon retailer for wireless transmitter/receiver.
3. Fry's electronics for toggle switches, LEDs, wire, terminal block. 

Cost of Basic Components

The cost of the camera with license plate bracket and (8) IR LEDs, color 7 inch monitor and transmitter/receiver pair was about $105 (US) plus shipping and any tax. 

The Components

Here are the three major components. The transmitter/receiver came in a bag with minimal information to aid assembly. 

Transmitter/Receiver Pair, Rearview Camera and Montior

Test Setup

I decided to build a test system which would power up the camera, monitor, transmitter and receiver. This was straightforward as I own a small, portable automotive compressor which includes a 12V DC battery and cigarette lighter plug-in.  I purchased the cigarette lighter plug and cord at Fry's. I checked the polarity f the camera and monitor and labelled the plug to match prior to wiring anything to the plug (red is positive:

Test Power Plug 

I then assembled the receiver and transmitter components and wired them to the test power plug. You will note that the monitor includes two RCA style plugs (yellow). This is because the monitor is a two channel device. One plug is for AV1 and the other for AV2. I covered the unused plug with electrical tape prior to installing. You will also notice that the transmitter includes a power cable with inline fuse and connector for power. It also includes a video connector. This made the wiring of the camera straightforward:

Monitor and Receiver Wiring with Temporary Power Wiring

Rear-View Camera and Transmitter with Temporary Power Wiring

Power Up the Test Wired Camera and Monitor

I then powered them up to see how well I had wired them and to see how they worked, prior to the more time consuming final installation. This is the image with the camera looking up at the ceiling in the living room:

Powered Up System in the Living Room

Final Details

At this point I was ready for the final details, which included a toggle switch to power-up the monitor on demand, and the design of the toggle switch plate. I also had decided to re-wire the rear view camera that came with the Roadtrek camper van. So I added a second toggle switch and LED. This could permit the use of the existing camera as an manual rear-veiw camera as well as an automatic backup camera powered when the vehicle is in reverse.

The video is not all-inclusive. I did drill a small hole in the plastic behind the license plate so I could pass the cable from the camera to the wireless trasmitter. This hole also served as the pass-through for the 12VDC power cable to the transmitter. This wiring is shown in the photo above. 

Both toggles and LEDs are shown in the first photo of this post.

Planning Trek One for 2014

The weather has been colder than normal, and we have gotten about 61 inches of snow this season. That's about five times what we got last year and better than double a normal year.

The snow is creeping up to my dormer window. Cabin fever has set in. So what to do?

Planning the Next Trek

That's what we are doing. Questions to be answered include:

• Where to go.
• When to go. 
• How to get there.

For the present, we are hunkered down here in the Midwest. Last year we had about 12 inches of snow. In a typical year we get about 26 inches. This year we have 60 inches and counting. What a bounty! It seems I'd have to drive about 1,000 miles to get to good weather, and on the route I'd pass through more snow and ice. 

A few weeks ago, returning from a business trip to California, the temperature when I got off the plane and stepped out of O'hare Airport was 80F colder. Shazam! Now that will wake one up. 

I've been in Wyoming in the winter, experienced -65F wind chills in Iowa and so I can't say this is all that arduous a winter. Here in the Midwest, we get to experience this from time to time. No Biggie! Of course, for Tom Skilling this is an even bigger bounty. Here's my formula. Take whatever Mr. Skilling says and pick the low number. Over time that will be closer to reality. For example, 2 to 6 inches of snow "predicted?" Then use 2 inches and look outside in the morning. 

However, I must admit that it is somewhat daunting to plan a trek in the warm sunshine under these conditions. Yet, Spring is only 36 days away. What I am experiencing each day is temporary and fleeting. I'm of the opinion that when we get to 30 days, that will mark the commencement of the "downhill run." Yes, I know, the arrival of Spring, as marked by March 20 does not mean the arrival of good weather. That is not news. When I was a small child we would sing nursery rhymes and other ditties. I recall "April showers bring May flowers." When I was a child I thought everyone was insane; we didn't see flowers in any abundance until June. Then there was that song from "Easter Parade." It spoke of parades, clover and bonnets. We were hunkered down and walking around in boots.  To wear one's spring best for Easter was an invitation to jack frost to chill your bones and for cold and soggy socks. 

       Easter Parade
       In your easter bonnet, with all the frills upon it,
       You’ll be the grandest lady in the easter parade.
       I’ll be all in clover and when they look you over, I’ll be the proudest fellow in the easter parade.
       On the avenue, fifth avenue, the photographers will snap us,
       And you’ll find that you’re in the rotogravure.
       Oh, I could write a sonnet about your easter bonnet,
       And of the girl I’m taking to the easter parade.

Nevertheless, I am building my "to do" list and planning for that first trek.