My list of Spare Parts and Tools and Stuff

A few of the manuals that came with our Roadtrek

Updated December 11, 2015, September 30, 2017, July 2021
This is a personal list and what we each consider to be essential will vary. I think it is helpful to have some basic tools, etc. However, this will be determined by your style of trekking. If you boondock you might want to expand the list. If you trek in the vicinity of major towns, you will probably have many hardware stores and you may have an authorized Roadtrek dealer/service center nearby, etc.

However, my approach is to be self-sufficient and self-reliant. I approach this as a necessity because 210Ps are no longer manufactured and I am not all that assured that the repair technicians fully understand the details and complexity of my 2013 210P. I can say that when I purchased it I crawled beneath it and took a lot of if apart to figure it out.  I've changed the oil in the Onan generator, studied the electrical system, replaced the battery separator, replaced the AGM coach batteries, added solar, etc. I doubt if most of the RV techs have that specific experience.

I've posted about my maintenance costs and these are lower than others might experience because I use my parts and tools to maintain the coach of my 210P.  I'm aware of the limits of my abilities and so I use specialists and professionals to maintain the chassis, including the engine and transmission. I do follow a rigorous preventative maintenance schedule.

I originally posted this list because a while back I was asked about what I pack for repairs or to maintain our 210P. Someone at the FMCA Roadtrek cyberrally also asked this question and so I originally posted this in 2015.  Keep in mind that G and I have trekked for up to 100 days continuously and we stop at a couple of "lily-pads" we have established in the U.S. Our perspective may not be yours.

I've used just about everything on this list while on our treks, or provided it to others. I do a lot of my "modifications" and other things while trekking and so I need the tools, etc. to do them. For example, I added the interior LED light strip while trekking. On the road we have lots of time (sunrise to sunset outdoors) and the opportunity to think things through. I have used the 12VDC battery charger to fully recharge the chassis battery after retrieving the 210P from storage. As of July 2021 that battery is 9 years old. It would be wise to replace it as part of my "preventative maintenance" program. 

Some of these things I carry because I don't want to interrupt a trek to find a good hardware store, find a qualified RV specialist or wait for a specialized part to arrive via UPS. That's a personal choice.

Here is a partial list.

These are items that I consider useful and important. The reader should consider each on this list from the context of how they use their Roadtrek.  For example, I don't want to wait for a macerator pump replacement to arrive if we are trekking, so I carry one.  Ditto for a spare Thetford Sanicon hose. Waiting may be perfectly acceptable for the reader. On the other hand, I don't carry a spare water pump because they are so common at RV dealers and repair depots. If the TrippLite inverter-charger were to fail I can charge the coach AGM batteries with the solar system I installed and by running the chassis engine. Ultimately, I view a parts list as a means to avoid disruptions to treks between our lily-pad stops. Those stops are for weeks and they provide ample time for me to do any upgrades or repairs.  

1. Spare Parts:

• Suburban hot water heater anode (232767 magnesium)
• ShurFlo macerator pump 3200-001 (12V)
• Thetford Sanicon hose for macerator discharge. 
• Fuses of all types and sizes.
• JR Products 10245 Stainless Steel Baggage Door Catch
• (2) fluorescent bulbs for overhead lights.

2. Tools, Accoutrements and Such, categorized:
Electrical:

• Dogbone 50A to 30A, Camco 55175
• Camco 55165 15M/30F 12" PowerGrip Dogbone Electrical Adapter with Handle
• 12V 10 ft. extension cord
• 12V three-way splitter (3-outlet cigarette outlet adapter with digital voltmeter)
• Digital VOM for checking 120VAC and 12VDC.

• Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester
• Electrical tape (Scotch 33)
• ESI 305M 30 Amp Fuse Buddy Mini Tester and adapters for different automotive fuses
• Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C (installed with twist-lock 30A connectors)
• (2) 25 ft. #16AWG 3-conductor extension cord.

• Miscellaneous electrical connectors and crimping tool.
• Miscellaneous electrical wire (#14 AWG).
• Soldering iron and solder
• AAA and AA rechargeable batteries with charger

• (2) Maglite AA LED flashlights
• 12V Jumper cables
• NOCO Genius 10 Battery charger-maintainer.

Plumbing:

• Camco 39313 4" x 3" Sewer Hose Seal
• Camco 22484 Water Bandit
• Camco 40043 TastePURE Water Filter with Flexible Hose Protector
• Water pressure regulator
• Teflon tape (for replacing hot water heater anode)

• Paste thread sealant (for plastic fittings)
• 50 foot reel-in water hose (American Specialty MRT-50 50' Marine Handi-Hose & Reel)
• 25 ft. & 10 ft, water hoses (potable)
• 2-way hose connector with valves
• Spray nozzle for hose

• Funnel with 18 inch flexible discharge (for pink anti-freeze)
• Garden hose 0-ring washers

Lubricants:

• Powdered graphite
• WD-40
• Spray Lithium Grease
• 30W Oil for Onan Generator, and other purposes.

Adhesives and Fasteners:

• Black and grey duct tape
• White plastic tape
• Clear packing tape
• 3M SkotchBlue (interior and exterior tapes)
• Rescue Tape (for pipe leaks)
• Reflectix FT21024 2" x 30' Reflective Insulation Tape (I only take what I need with me)
• 3M Scotch adhesive putty
• Eternabond white RV EPDM repair tape (for roof leak temporary repair, etc.).
• Assorted nails and brads
• Assorted machine screws, washers and nuts
• Assorted self-tapping screws
• Goop
• Duco Cement (a general purpose glue)
• 5-minute epoxy - JB Weld

• Assorted plastic cable zip ties
• Velcro cable ties
• Bungee cord set

Tools:

• 1-1/16 inch socket with extender and handle (for hot water tank anode)
• Various sockets
• Neiko 100-Piece Security Bits Set with Hard Storage Case (includes S#1, 2, 3)
• Neiko 03044A 1/4-Drive Mini-size Ratcheting Screwdriver and Bit Set, Cr-V, includes 7 Bits
• Ratchet screwdriver handle for bits.

• Various Phillips and straight blade screwdrivers
• Needle nose and sidecutter pliers
• Wire stripper
• Adjustable wrenches (8 inch and 12 inch) crescent wrenches.
• Channellock pliers (small)

• Channellock pliers (large)
• Hammer
• Square edge
• 25 ft. tape measure
• 6 inch bubble level

• Fiskars 1/4 inch hand drill.
• Stanley 15-809 Metal Mini Hacksaw
• Hand Axe
• Pop-rivet tool and rivets
• Magnifying glass

• Right-angle mirror
• 3-Piece Shovel - Snow removal
• Reflective triangle - automotive distress

Miscellaneous:

• Copy of all manufacturer's manuals for the RT (RT, Suburban, Thetford, etc.) Many are in pdf format on my PC laptop.
• List of all installed equipment including model and serial numbers, if known
• Valterra A10-2606 FridgeCool Fan
• Campbell Hausfeld CC 2300 Portable Inflator
• Set Walkie-talkies

• Soft-close door bumpers (small) for cabinets
• Felt adhesive bumpers (rectangular and round)
• 3M "Command" hangers - various sizes and types
• 1/2 inch aluminum angle x 30 inch
• Aluminum bar 1/16 x 30 inch

• (2) bricks with holes
• Awning hangers
• Highland Washdrops Wash and Shine Solution
• Expandable handle automotive soft scrub mop for vehicle exterior
• Scotch-Brite Scrub Sponges, Non-scratch
• Scotch-Brite heavy duty sponge

• 50 ft. cord, tent pegs, guyline adjusters, etc.
• Sea-Foam gasoline additive (for gasoline generator, transferred to 1-qt. aluminum bottles)
• Alcohol wipes
• Rags
• 3 watt solar panel for vehicle (chassis) battery

• Bleach for water system sterilization
• 2-gallons pink anti-freeze (if winter trekking).

Solar Charging of Coach Batteries:

• BatteryMINDer Model SCC-005-AA-S3
• 50 watt solar panel

Additional Tools:

• Kill-A-Watt P3
• Infrared (non-contact) Thermometer

Original Material: Roadtrek210.blogspot.com

Setting Up the Winter Base

Drove to the southwest with the RT to set up our winter base. Left during a three day rainstorm as the consequence of a large stationary front which extended from the gulf of Mexico to Canada.

I recall a Thanksgiving a couple of years ago in which serious snow arrived in the midwest. Once everything ices over it becomes difficult or impossible to get the RT out of storage.  Then there was the early December snow and ice storm in 2013.

"He who hesitates is lost" is my motto in late November and early December.

So, at 4:00am on the 18th I got into the RT during a serious downpour, but I had loaded the RT during a break in the weather during the previous evening. I headed south, south-west.  By the time I got to St. Louis it was merely overcast (9:00am). By Oklahoma the clouds were breaking. It was an easy, but tedious drive of about 1782 miles. My Verizon Navigator had predicted 1770 miles, but a road closure in northern Oklahoma resulted in a slight detour. Not bad and a lot better than my TomTom GPS (aka "DumbDumb.").  Total time with engine spent running was 29:15 according to the Chevy 3500.

Spent the first night in a rest stop in Oklahoma. Low of about 40F so I ran the generator and the heat pump, got up at about 3:00am and continued my trek. Spent the next night in a rest stop in New Mexico. At about 4500 ft elevation the temperature reached a low of about 31F. Again, ran the generator and the heat pump. I could have used the propane furnace, but it was mild when I went to sleep.  At dawn I continued on the road.

By 10:30am on the 19th it was clear skies to the horizon.

At about 11:00 am on the 20th I arrived at my destination.  Blue skies and warm weather. Now, this is more like it!

After checking in, I went about getting the RT into the bay.

As expected, it was a tight fit.

There were a few surprises, but no show stoppers.  Worked out the details and settled in for a nice, restful sleep.

Spent several days getting things set up. The RT looks odd in the larger bay. I do get some stares and a few questions from passers-by:

I then left and boarded a plane to return to the northland. It was an uneventful flight and I strolled through O'hare at about 7:00pm on the 23rd.

Lithium Batteries and Solar Power, Revisited

Winter approaches and we are near the end of our first two years with a camper van. It is time to winterize and to review my "to do" list. One item has been improving the coach battery system. We did store the camper for two winters with the batteries on a solar panel.

This worked fairly well. But, I wasn't happy with the amount of power provided by these 220Ah batteries, and began exploring alternatives in late 2013, immediately on purchase. I'd done the numbers and knew we would be on the edge based upon our intended use of the vehicle. Why do I say "on the edge?" It is because of the available capacity of these batteries, which is not 220Ah if one wants them to have a reasonable life expectancy of 5 or more years.

A Short Review
What is the true available 12VDC power? 220Ah of AGM batteries can only provide 110Ah while keeping them above a "safe" discharge level of 50%.  What does that mean? If one wants to run some appliances and an inverter, the batteries can provide the following power:

• 5 amperes (60 watts @ 12 volts) for 22 hours, or 
• 6.5 amperes (78 watts @ 12 volts) for 16 hours, or 
• 8.5 amperes (102 watts @ 12 volts) for 12 hours, or 
• 12 amperes (144 watts @ 12 volts) for 8 hours. 

The real issue is having sufficient battery capacity to run necessities through the night while off shore power and without a generator. At a minimum this would be the refrigerator and a vent fan or the furnace plus some lighting. The loads of your rig might be different than mine. To run any 120V appliances including a PC would require the inverter which has losses as part of the process of converting 12VDC to 120VAC. It would be best to use 12VDC appliances and a PC which can run from 12VDC. We've got a propane range top and so we can use that for cooking. If the weather is mild, it is possible to use the propane BBQ or if allowed, a wood burning campfire. These things reduce the electrical requirements for the batteries. Of course, we can simply fire up the generator. However it is my desire to make it through a typical night in mild (40F to 85F) weather without shore power or running the generator. That is not necessarily a daily requirement. In fact, based on our actual experience. we only need overnight battery capacity on an occasional basis. That translates into the cost-benefit analysis of the battery and solar system.

The existing AGM batteries, if in excellent condition could provide about 6.5 amperes for 16 hours. I do need to emphasize that I am assuming the batteries are in good condition and fully charged. If not, then less power would be available. Why 16 hours? That's maximum for winter with darkness and operating on batteries from 5pm to 9am. I'm assuming cool temperatures in which there would be no need for supplemental coach heat beyond use of the furnace. However, I've done some analysis of our electric blanket and that is a viable alternative.

If my refrigerator operates on propane I do need some 12VDC for the controls. The furnace electronics and fan also require 12VDC. Lighting loads vary. I've got fluorescent and LEDs. In a pinch we could use hockey puck LED lights which run of AA batteries. But we don't want our "tiny home on wheels" to morph into "our tiny cave on wheels."

How Much DC Power is Used?

• Suburban Furnace = 2.8A (intermittent)
• Max-Air Fan @ Medium Speed = 1.5A
• Refrigerator 12V electronics = estimated 1A
• Propane/CO Alarm = 0.1A
• Smoke Alarm = 0A (9V battery)

These  items consume 5.4 amperes. That is approaching the maximum 16 hour capacity of the batteries, and based upon experience that's a realistic maximum for daily hours with less than perfect batteries. It would seem that Roadtrek did a good job sizing this system. Remember that the furnace runs intermittently. That's why I didn't include the lighting load. However, if one uses the inverter, then the requirements increase by about 1.5 amperes or more. That's because of the inefficiency and losses in the inverter.

Do I Need Lithium Batteries?
Based upon our actual experience since December 2013, I would say that we do not. It is true that our current battery system is marginal. However, based upon actual needs, we don't need to do an upgrade at this time.

That said, it is possible I will replace the AGMs with LiFePO4 batteries when that time comes. Here is my reality: It is all about cost-benefit analysis. I do have a design and it will be easy to adjust the design as time goes on. With each design modification I'll get current prices and current technology.  Trigger events to upgrade would include battery failure, inverter/charger failure, a desire for more solar than I currently have, and so on.

It is also possible that some day I may take this on as a "hobby" project. But I am under no pressure to make the modifications at this time.

Here are some links to earlier posts on this subject:

http://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/2015/02/agm-battery-alternatives.html

http://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/2015/02/are-lithium-coach-batteries-expensive.html

Here is a handy calculator to help you determine how long your coach batteries can handle a specific load in amperes:

http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html

Note: Edited amps used to add CO/Propane detector, misc.

18 Months of Improvements [Now at 84 months]

Note:

1. You will find posts elsewhere in this blog for some of these, which detail the actual install and provide further insights.
2. I also have videos detailing some of these as well as treks on my YouTube Channel. Here's a link:   Link to My YouTube Channel
3. If you are a new Roadtrek owner I suggest you consider 1) A power protection device, 2) A water filter, 3) A water pressure regulator, 4) a 750/1500 Watt ceramic heater. All of the other modifications I made were based upon my actual experiences and perceived needs. You should use your actual experiences to be your guides for what you add, or purchase, to your Roadtrek.  
4. Some of the following I'd call "gadgets" and one of these days I'll post a complete list of the gadgets and useful things I've added. 
5. It is my understanding that Thetford no longer makes the Sanicon hose.  (2020). However, Home Depot sells 1-1/4" diameter flexible sump pump hose. I haven't tried it. 
   

Edited to add #15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21.
Added #23, 24, 25
July 2017, updated #25, added #26"The list goes on."
January 2018 added electric heater info
October 2018 added water meter.
March 2021 Added Sanicon note (item #16)

Originally posted as "18 Months of Tweaks"

Thursday, September 24, 2015

Note: These were all a consequence of our experiences during our first several treks. "Official" outdoor temperatures ranged from 9F to 103F. We completed the first 13 modification in the 18 months of purchase and the first 15,000 miles. We have added modifications #14 and so on in the months thereafter.

This is a brief list of the tweaks or additions to the Roadtrek. I thought it might be useful to list the mods to my 210P. Not that many, actually. Most of these were documented elsewhere on this blog. These are in no particular order. [I'll update this from time to time with more recent modifications.]

1. I added a 50 watt solar panel and solar charger for the AGM coach batteries. This primarily because for the first two winters it was stored in a place which doesn't have 120VAC available and I didn't want to remove the batteries for the winter. I ran the generator about every other week to supplement the solar charge and exercise the generator, weather permitting.

2. Progressive Industries hard wired power and surge protection device with readout mounted in the coach. The device was installed in an exterior compartment with 30A twist-lock connectors for easy bypass or removal. The coach readout does include a bypass select, current, Hz, volts, fault and previous fault readouts. 

Progressive Industries Power Protection Device

3. Improved backup camera - color with transmitter/receiver (no front to back wiring required). This became a necessity when the onboard radio/GPS/monitor died. With a trip about a week away I decided it was expedient to add a second "selectable on" camera and deal with the radio issue at a later time. With Roadtrek's assistance it was determined it was the Scosche intelligent bus controller. To get to it required tearing the entire dash apart. After fixing the power to the radio we decided we like the improved all-time color monitor and camera and use it in traffic situations. 

4. Internal/external temperature monitors. Simple home, battery operated system with a wireless remote mounted in rear storage compartment to monitor outside temperature. The smaller can also be used to monitor the interior temperature of the refrigerator.

Ambient and remote temperature monitor - great for refrigerator

Ambient and remote temperature monitors - the remote is in an outside compartment

5. Improved LED dimmable lighting. Added a 16 ft flexible strip the length of the coach and around the rear. Includes remote control for selection of color and intensity. Wonderful nighttime lighting improvement.

Dimmable LED light strip

6. Outside 120VAC receptacle. This is a "made to fit" heavy duty extension cord permanently routed to the coach battery compartment. When not in use it is unplugged, depowering the outside end. I plug it into the ground fault protected outlet inside the side door when I want to power it up. This became a necessity when I found that many of the 120V auxiliary receptacles at campgrounds don't work; this is because the ground fault protectors are always tripped and won't reset, even with nothing plugged in. So my extension cords for inductive cooking or outside lighting were useless. I didn't want to run them under or through an open door so this was the solution. 

7. Reflectix cut for all windows except the side entry.

8. Moveable sun sail. Usually we put this at the front of the vehicle. Significant improvement to the interior temperature when camping in full sun.

Sunshade and Reflectix

9. Supplemental Portable Electric Heat. We use a 750/1500 watt electric ceramic heater to put a load on the Onan generator. It also heats the interior when nighttime temperatures are below 50F. This allows us to become creative about energy use and is a backup for the heat pump and the propane furnace. Setting it below the thermostat of the heat pump allows for supplemental heat. It is also a great way to exercise the generator. Not really a "modification" but then, one does need a load when running the generator and this is it.

Portable 750/1500 Watt 120VAC electric heater

10. Additional supplemental electric heat. After nights down to 5F I decided I wanted a low wattage heater for the front of the Roadtrek, to help with that large glass frontal heat loss area. Even with Reflectix (R-1.0) a lot of heat is lost. I experimented with a flat panel heater in the travel trailer and it worked very well. We have a 250 watt version for the Roadtrek (about 18x23 inches and 1/2 inch thick). I also have a programmable digital thermostat because the heater only has an Off-On switch. So far this winter (2017-2018) we've avoided the circumstances in which it would be required. Caution: the surface of this type of heater panel can get HOT. Which is why we have not yet used it in the close confines of the Roadtrek Class B.

11. Front fan to distribute air in the front of the vehicle. This 12V rectangular fan with side air inlets sets in the tray above the passenger door and improves the temperature, both hot and cold, via improved air distribution. In the summer, when used with the sun sail and reflectix it makes for a much more comfortable front end of the vehicle, if parked in full sun.

12 VDC fan

12. Finger bump preventer for side door screen. Added an aluminum angle because it was too easy to push against the door to open it and bump the screen when exiting. Doing so would push the screen out of it's mounting.

13. Inductive electric burner. This is an electric appliance and is portable but it has proven to be so handy I included it here. We do a lot of cooking when on the road and when it's hot or warm, cooking outdoors is a natural. We even cook breakfast outdoors using this. [This week I made donuts at our site using a cast iron skillet - Lodge, of course!] The burner works best with cast iron skillets but I do have an iron plate for use with aluminum pans (shouldn't boil water in cast iron, or cook acidic things like tomato soup). To provide some idea of how little propane we use, we filled our propane tank this spring and use it primarily for hot water. The readout currently shows 2/3 full. But, as these readouts are known to be unreliable, we really don't know how full or empty it is.

Inductive electric cooktop with iron heat transfer device
Inductive cooktop requires iron and stainless steel pots do not work

Cast iron griddle on induction electric cooktop

Inductive electric cooktop with cast iron

14. A small propane BBQ. This is another appliance but we prefer to cook outdoors when possible. This keeps the interior humidity lower and ditto for the temperature in summer.We use small disposable (recyclable) cylinders. Not the cheapest approach and the 210P does have a rear connection for a propane appliance. But we usually cook on the exterior passenger side of the vehicle and in the shade of the awning (but not necessarily under it).

Propane BBQ

Preparing a small feast made with the propane BBQ and the induction electric cooktop with cast iron skillet

15. Hockey puck LED tap lights. These are powered by AA batteries and we purchased a pack of five and placed them in overhead compartments.

Battery powered hockey puck light

16. How could I forget? Replaced the standard Roadtrek Macerator dump hose with a Thetford Sanicon 21 ft flexible hose extension for macerator. Thetford #70424. On one of our first treks, the standard Roadtrek dump hose would not reach to the dump point. Had to start and back onto a road to dump. This was my [second] mod to the 210P. It is my understanding that Thetford no longer makes the Sanicon hose.  (2020). However, Home Depot sells 1-1/4" diameter flexible sump pump hose. I haven't tried it. 

Thetford Sanicon macerator dump hose, extends about 20 feet.

17. First thing we added was a Maxx-Air vent cover. We went with the "smoke" color and had the dealer add this the morning we picked up the 210P. Now, I gotta say that on the 210P it is ugly. But, it is really functional. We don't worry about rain, or bugs or bird nests, or forgetting to lower the Maxx Fan cover when travelling, or parked on a bluff when a nasty thunderstorm comes up. 

Maxx Fan cover

18. Added two small fans with thermostat to improve the temperature in the area behind the refrigerator. We had experienced some difficulties, most notably in TX at 100F. Sun load on that side of the vehicle was sometimes a problem.  We can't always find shade or park in the orientation we would prefer to the sun. 

Whisper fans to help cool the Refrigerator compartment

19. Dual control electric blanket. This was a really pleasant addition. We camp in 3-1/2 seasons which means down to zero degrees F. An electric blanket is superior to a sleeping bag because it adds supplemental heat beyond that generated by the occupant. I'm a long term "ground camper" and so I do know all of the alternatives. But if one wants their spouse or anyone who is not an outdoors woman (or outdoorsman) to be comfortable when the outside drops below 32F, I suggest this approach.

Marketing photo of the electric blanket - Ours has dual controls

20. I added a custom screen to the passenger side window to improve ventilation. This is attached with magnets. 

Side window screening

21. I added custom screens to the furnace outlet, hot water heater grill and the refrigerator openings. These are held in place with magnets. For the refrigerator I epoxied steel washers to the inside of the cover. The magnets adhere to the washers. The purpose of this is to prevent 'critters' of any kind from moving in. 

Covers for furnace vent

22. Last year (2014) we spent extended periods of time in areas with very hard water. I do have a water pressure regulator and a filter on the RT. However, I noticed deposits forming on the faucets and then the check valve at the city water inlet stuck in the "open" position. I purchased an "On-the-Go" portable softener and it works well. However, that's one more thing to carry!. I did clean the deposits from the check valve by removing the screen at the inlet, and then with a short piece of hose I poured vinegar directly into it and with the hose full I let it set for a day, then removed the hose and pushed the check valve in, added more vinegar and so on. I did this repeatedly and it cleaned up the valve and it works fine.

Portable water softener

23. At 36 months I replaced the coach batteries. These simply didn't provide the capacity as published. This didn't seem to be a problem as we seldom "boondocked" for more than a day off of shore power. However, in the second year we spent longer periods off power and noticed that the batteries didn't seem to provide the expected duration of power. The status LEDs would indicate "C" for charging when on shore power or solar and then "F" for full charge when running on coach battery power. I measured the voltage at the battery terminals and began comparing to a charge table for AGM batteries. The "L-F-G-C" indicator would indicate "G" or Good when the battery was at 60% DoD (depth of discharge) or lower. While AGMs can be discharged 80%, it is my understanding that repeatedly discharging below 50% will shorten the life significantly. I decided to put a better battery monitor on my list. See item 25. I measured the amperes draw and concluded the battery terminal voltage was dropping more rapidly than expected. We probably were getting about the equivalent of a 120Ah battery, and I assume the batteries were nearing end of useful life. 

Approximately 220Ah AGM batteries

24. Purchased a battery monitor with shunt. I am also considering adding a disconnect for the coach batteries, but I have concluded that would not be easily accomplished. Shortly after purchase of the Roadtrek I added a portable 50W solar panel and controller to charge these batteries. However, there are now times I store the RT and disconnecting the coach batteries is probably the best solution if I don't want to use the solar panel.  I've assembled the case for the meter, run the wiring and installed a shunt. Next will be the actual installation (July 2017).

Digital voltmeter-ammeter for coach batteries.

25. I got tired of struggling to attach the fresh water hose. It took two hands to unscrew the plastic cap to the plastic fitting inside the compartment. After some research I purchased a fitting of brass which I attached to the fresh water inlet. As a bonus it includes a ball valve. I attached a small length of hose to this, which I never remove. I can now more easily remove the longer length of hose. The photo includes "after" and "before" views, but without the short piece of hose attached.


26. Water Meter.  Helpful when filling the inside tank, which has approximately 10 gallon capacity.

Water meter for hose

Copyright (C) 2019, 2021 All Rights Reserved - Norman Retzke

Sandwich Fair - Pie Helps

Trekking to the Sandwich Fair was fun, but after all of the stimulation, sights, sounds and so one can use some calming. There is nothing better than homemade strawberry rhubarb pie.

Trekking to the Sandwich Fair

In many communities there are annual county fairs. There are others, too. The town of Sandwich, Illinois has a fair each September. The fair includes animals and livestock, a petting zoo, all sorts of exhibits from antiques to flowers to vegetables as well as commercial exhibits. Need a RV? Come on down!

The fair also includes lots of food, and other entertainment including music, tractor pull, horse races and other competitions. This post does not do justice to the scope of this fair. Consider it to be a small sampling.

We have friends who attend and compete each year. So this year we made the opportunity to go to the fair, which is running until tomorrow September 13.

Click to go to the Sandwich Fair website