As Fall approaches, good times, some rain, lazy days

 

August 20, 2021 about 1:45pm - Weko Beach

31 days to the Autumnal Equinox - "Lazy, hazy days of summer"

In 31 days Fall will arrive.  In the meantime everyone is enjoying most of August. It's been wet and humid with rain every three or four days.  That means hot (87F) and humid (70%).  The temperature of Lake Michigan has been about 62F while breezes are westerly.  The beachgoers are loving it.  On the weekend it has been crazy at the beaches.  The photo above was taken on Friday before the weekend crowd arrives.

The flower garden at the campground is beginning to wane.  The butterflies and bees have been very busy.  It is a bit early for the rush of yellow jackets.  We do have hummingbird visitors.  Many campers have emptied their bird feeders out of concern about the die-off of song birds this year.

Bumblebees

Hummingbird at our campsite feeder

I took the opportunity to expand the cook station. I took some scrap wood and built a small cabinet for seasonings, olive oil and other stuff I would like to leave outdoors to facilitate BBQ and cooking. I set it on the removeable rack for a grill which hangs on the side of the travel trailer. I'll be adding screening.  When I took this photo G was setting up to make Marinara sauce................

Small cabinet made from wood scraps

With hot and humid weather, we bicycle to the lake early to beat the mid-day heat.  On our ride we encounter the occasional wild turkey.  They don't wait for me to stop and pull out the camera.  They head into the woods, scolding as they leave.  G is only a few yards behind me on the curve, but she can only hear them as she passes.  "What was that?" she asks.   Arriving at the shore, it is very quiet.

Peaceful with few sun worshippers at 10:00 am

It seems the annual Monarch butterfly migration has begun.  It seems early this year.  Perhaps the butterflies are expecting an early winter, or it is simply because of the recent cool nights.  We bike to the shore, sit and watch them drift by, travelling in a southerly direction along the shoreline.  

Monarch butterfly passes overhead, en-route to Mexico

We relax before bicycling back to the campground. 

Relaxing and counting butterflies

The occasional cloud and curious gulls fly overhead.  The gulls I have learned from my sailing days are attracted to royal blue, and that is the color of the shirt I am wearing.  There is a possibility of a stray shower, but it doesn't happen until nightfall.  

A gull checks us out while a few stray clouds pass overhead

Nights have been pleasant with lows of about 65F, aided by mild breezes off the lake. Excellent weather for campfires. The campground has been quiet during the week, but with the arrival of the weekend things will get busier.  After dinner we start a fire and watch hummingbirds at the feeder.  Life is good, they say.  I say it really beats the alternatives. I'm a very lucky guy......

9:00 pm August 19 - No bicycles were ignited - LOL

Original Material: Roadtrek210.Blogspot.com (c) 2021

Care of the Fiberglass on our Heartland Caliber

 

Fiberglass Cap -  dull and needing a good waxing  in the Spring
Even after several years of cleaning and polishing

Restoring the Fiberglass on our Heartland Caliber

Our "summer" lily pad is a Heartland Caliber travel trailer.  We purchased it used, and apparently the previous owner didn't keep up with the weathering of the fiberglass nose, or "cap".  As a consequence the gel coat had degraded.  This is not uncommon.

I've spent several years removing oxidation, polishing and waxing using Meguiar products.  Each year the fiberglass becomes more even in color with less streaking.  I compare the most recent "after" to the photos the year we purchased and I think the cap is now in better condition than when purchased. This post is about the specific steps I took this year after a couple of years of using "Oxidation Remover", polish and wax. Yes, these are different products, each has a purpose and I've used four different products in succession each year for several years. 

Close-up of Area before using Oxidation Remover
Old wax and some oxidation

Mottled Surface 2 years later - It had been cleaned and waxed, but the 
area the "For Sale" sign was taped is still apparent.
Photo in bright afternoon sun

Same Area -  After use of oxidation remover, but before any polish or wax
This is after several years of such cleaning
Color is "dull" in part because of solid overcast and the absence 
of any polish or wax. 

Each spring I clean and wax the entire area of the fiberglass nose cap.  I do this before it becomes too hot so I have better control over the evaporation and drying of the products.  These cannot be applied in full sun on hot surfaces. Of course, I'm more comfortable in the shade, too. This is an annual chore and in my opinion it is a necessary one for a rig such as this which is exposed to the weather 12 months of the year. Winters are harsh, and the afternoon sun is relentless because the Caliber is facing southwest.

I'm including a short video about the cleaning and polishing this year. There is an earlier post about the care of the Redwood Cypress.

Products Used and "Why?":

I began using Meguiar's products some years ago for the care of several fiberglass boats.  I've continued to use it, and today I use it on a Redwood Cypress and the Heartland Caliber.  These products can be purchased individually or in a kit.  I have used oxidation remover on the gel coat of fiberglass, including the Caliber. The "gel coat" is a translucent or colored gel fiberglass resin that is applied to the surface of fiberglass, such as the nose cap of the Caliber. That gray coloration of my Caliber is the gel coat, which is thin. When new it has a very high gloss surface, but that surface must be protected. If it isn't it will become dull, porous and pitted.

When a fiberglass gel coat becomes damaged it may require multiple applications of oxidation remover to restore it. In extreme cases wet sanding may be necessary, but I leave that to professionals. The gel coat is thin and is measured in mils. One mil is 1/1000 of an inch in thickness. That gel coat is usually between 15-20 mils thick (0.015-0.020”), or about 1/64 of an inch in thickness.  In no time at all an electric sander can easily remove the gel coat!

Take off too much gel coat or sand through the gel coat will expose the under surface of the fiberglass.  That under surface will be a pale yellow or some other unattractive color. 

I have never used oxidation remover on painted surfaces, and I won't do that.  It is abrasive. However, I have used it on the flat rear surface of the Redwood, which is an unusual product and is not the typical high polish fiberglass. On the Redwood the oxidation remover successfully stripped old wax and oxidation in a single pass, in preparation for polish and wax. Generally, polishes are less protective than waxes, which is why I apply a wax. A polish may provide a short-term gloss, but not much else. 

On the Caliber it seemed wax had been applied over the oxidation and over older wax. This contributed to the "shades of gray", mottled appearance and streaking.  Stripping and cleaning down to the fiberglass was an essential step. After that it was imperative to apply wax protection.  It took several years to get the appearance to where I was satisfied.  

In previous years for the fiberglass nose of the Caliber I have applied Meguiar's "Oxidation Remover (#49)" as a first step. The nose was very dull, was oxidized and actually several shades of gray. Oxidation Remover is a heavy duty cleaner. Always read and follow the manufacturer's directions for this and any abrasive product. 

This year, because of the improved condition achieved by several years of annual cleaning and waxing it was not necessary to use the Oxidation Remover - success!  I  first washed thoroughly and then I used the following products in succession over several consecutive mornings. The first two are essential. I was aware that weather might not cooperate for several consecutive days. As a consequence, "High Gloss Polish" is a necessity to protect the surface after using "Cleaner Wax". I consider "Pure Wax" to be something that could be applied later. However, I was able to clean and apply the following products in quick succession this year:

• Meguiar's Cleaner Wax (#50) 
• Meguiar's High Gloss Polish (#45) 
• Meguiar's Pure Wax (#56) 

Each of the products has a specific purpose:

• Oxidation Remover: Restores the original color of older fiberglass gel coat surfaces by effectively removing surface degradation.
• Cleaner Wax: non-abrasive, removes light oxidation and provides UV protection.
• High Gloss Polish: restore optimal gloss on gel coat and fiberglass surfaces.
• Pure Wax: enhanced gloss and durable protection.

Application Method:

This work is to be done in the shade. However, my rigs are outdoors. I usually pick a partly cloudy day. The sun rises from the rear of the Caliber and moves overhead to the front, which is pointed southwest.  There are several large trees to the east, so I get partial shade early until about 11:00am.  As a consequence I have limited time to work on the fiberglass. Furthermore, the dew point is about 65F and with cool nighttime temperatures, the fiberglass is at the dewpoint in the morning.  That delays drying and the product should be applied to a clean and dry surface.

Morning Dew

I begin with a wash with warm, soapy water at about 8:00am as the temperatures rise above the dew point; this facilitates evaporation. I rinse with clean water and allow to drain for a few minutes. I then wipe the entire surface with a large micro-fiber cloth, drying the surface.  While the last of the water evaporates I set up a ladder and get the materials, set up the extension cord, put the applicator and soft polish buffer on the electric orbital buffers. I then climb on the roof and begin there, and once the area I can reach from the roof is complete I then go the the front and work my way all the way down.  I apply product to a small area, then buff, gradually covering the entire surface. Setup, the complete application of any one product, buffing and clean-up requires about 3 hours. 

I switch applicators as I move from product to product and I frequently inspect the applicators to assure that product is properly spread on the surface, and that the polishing buffer is sufficiently soft and clean.

When I first began doing this, I used one electric orbital buffer. However, because of time restraints I now use two.  It also is easier as I don't have to switch from applicator to polisher cloths.  It is imperative to complete application and polishing before the sun rises and heats the fiberglass.  I have a cheap no-name Chinese buffer and a Black & Decker. I use the cheap one as an applicator and for polishing I use the more costly B&D which has a handle and a grip.  That works better for polishing which requires more effort.

Black and Decker Random Orbital Polisher - Used for Polishing

Chinese No-Name Polisher - Used For Product Application

In addition to the two 6 inch circular electric buffer/polishers I use a soft cloth. To apply product in tight areas (such as behind the propane tanks, or along edges) I use Meguiar's sponge applicators.  These can be cleaned and re-used. 

Following manufacturer's directions I apply the product and allow to glaze if that is the recommendation.  I then buff lightly by hand with a soft cloth and polish using the second electric buffer. Using oxidation remover, cleaner wax and polishing it is important to follow manufacturer's directions and recommendations. It is important that no residue is left behind. Failure to do this can result in wax being applied over dirt or glazed wax in the future. This can contribute to streaking and uneven appearance.. 

Proper polishing is most important with the final step "Pure Wax (#56)". 

Cleaner Wax and Polish - Steps 2 & 3 of a 4-step process

Step 4 - Pure Wax - Only use on very clean surface
Otherwise, it will trap old wax, dirt and so on under the wax

When complete I look for streaking, etc. in bright sun. I check the integrity of the surface.  I spray with water and observe how the water beads and flows by gravity.  A porous or rough surface will inhibit water flow and beading.

Beading of water - After completion

Here's a short video:

Original Material: Roadtrek210.Blogspot.com (c) 2021

A wooden cabinet from scraps

 

Project - Small exterior cooking cabinet on re-purposed removeable tube stand
Final step is to attach a front screen

Using scrap wood to build a small exterior cabinet

In July 2020 I built a cook station - work table at the Summer Lily Pad. It was a CCP Covid-19 project. At the time I also wanted a small enclosure for storing cooking oil, seasonings and so on.  When I replaced the grill that came with the used travel trailer I had a nice exterior, removeable stand.  Hmmm, I said to myself "This presents an opportunity". So I set it aside.

I find these projects useful in several ways. They are design challenges; i.e. finding a solution to a specific problem. This allows me to exercise my creativity in small ways, it provides an exercise in anticipating problems encountered during the process, and it requires some manual dexterity and an opportunity to use tools. In other words, it uses both sides of the brain as well as my body. These projects all have a tangible deliverable and the outcome is what it is. 

One of the challenges with these projects is always to minimize costs.  That means having available a minimum of tools which can be applied to a very wide range of projects. G thinks I have a lot of tools, but in fact, I have only a necessary few. I know, that sounds subjective.  I compare my range of tools to a modern kitchen and I have far fewer in quantity than most of the gadgets and utensils of a kitchen. 

When doing a project I sometimes re-purpose bricks, bits of scrap wood and so on as "tools" and these are usually available anywhere. A few blocks and scraps can go a long way. Furthermore, I prefer to buy as little as possible. With limited space in the Roadtrek and at the summer lily pad, having what is needed available, not less and not more is sometimes a challenge.  Challenges are good, I say. 

Original Celano Grill on removeable stand

I really didn't want to spend any money on this project.  I saved some scrap 3/8 plywood left over from the construction of the cook station/work table.  I stored it in the underbelly of the travel trailer.   I sketched a design utilizing most of the scrap, maximizing the dimensions of the cabinet by the wood available. With these dimensions and a 24 x 12 inch square straight edge I marked up the scrap plywood. I checked the dimensions several times.  "Measure twice, cut once" is the expression. 

I had some 1-1/2 inch decking screws left over from the cook station project. I had two machine screws to replace the wingnut screws holding the existing tube frame together. I wanted the sides of the "box" to extend below the support tubes and prevent sliding sideways. I also had some gray Cabot solid wood stain and Gorilla glue. What I lacked was some wood to fasten and hold the sides, top, bottom and rear together.  If I didn't want a monochrome color, then I could use some of the Royal Blue Rust-oleum enamel for the outside. I also had gloss white and black. But I didn't want black as it would absorb heat and white would show dirt. I'd probably purchase a quart of gloss of the desired color. I decided upon gloss sand Rust-oleum enamel. I had vinyl screening for a front. The out-of-pocket costs were about $15.  

What I needed to do the build was some 1x2 and 1x1 lumber, and my sketches gave me the lengths of each of the individual pieces required. I knew exactly how many 6 ft or 8 ft long pieces to buy so as to cut and minimize waste.  However, with the high lumber prices in the Spring of 2021 I decided to wait for a lower priced opportunity. 

In late July, while walking past the Beach Bucket after getting an ice cream cone, I spotted a stack of wood scraps. Neatly bundled, each bundle was priced at $5.  I picked through the bundles and selected one; this would allow me to complete the assembly of the cabinet.  The scraps were intended to use as kindling for campfires. I'll use the leftovers that way.  I extracted choice, uniform pieces for my project. Even after taking out the pieces for construction I do have a lot of kindling:

Scrap wood for kindling

Tools used:

• Clamping miter box - see photo
• Two 20 inch sliding arm bar-clamps
• Tape measure
• 24 inch steel square
• Pliers
• Xacto style knife
• Variable speed 3/8 drill and bits
• Screw drivers
• 1 inch foam brush
• Paint can opener
• 3 inch paint brush
• pen.
• Note: all screws were pre-drilled with a pilot hole.

Clamping Miter Box - similar to mine

I selected pieces approximate 1x1 inch and cut to the length required using an inexpensive plastic clamping miter box.  I did the cutting on the previously built cook station - work table.   I then clamped and glued these to the 3/8 plywood sides.  These will also attach the sides to the top and rear of the small cabinet.  I'll glue the rear of the cabinet sides to the sides, but screw the bottom and top to the sides.  I do this on a campsite picnic table, exercising care not to damage the table:

Positioned, clamped and glued 1x1 to a side - sliding arm bar clamp shown
I didn't use the corner clamp in the photo

Gorilla glue is water activated. I used a 1 inch foam brush as shown in the photo above to apply water from a paper cup to the surfaces to be glued.  I then drizzle a thin bead of glue on one of the surfaces.  Too much will squirt out under pressure; too little and a good joint does not occur. I then apply a clamp or two and let the glue set for 2 hours.  The glue reacts with water and excess flows out as can be seen in the photo below:

Pieces glued to the sides

I use a razor knife to remove any excess glue after it has set. The dry glue has a consistency like a spray foam. I can trim one piece while the other is clamped, glued and is setting.  It is important to remove any excess that might prevent two surfaces from achieving a tight fit when gluing.  I also remove some glue that might create a bad appearance.  After doing the first joint I knew how much glue to use and there was less excess to trim:

Using Ace Hardware version of Xacto (r) knife to remove excess glue
while another piece is clamped after gluing

I allowed the side pieces to set overnight and continued the project on the next day. The next step is to glue and clamp the first side to the rear of the cabinet. The brick in the photo provides stability and also a place to store a closed, inverted bottle of Gorilla glue. The glue is viscous and needs to be coaxed out of the bottle. Storing inverted expedites the gluing. I use scraps of 2x4 which I saved from the cook station project and 1x1 to provide a suitable clamp support:

First side clamped and glued to the rear of the cabinet

After the glue is completely set I then proceed with the second side. Note the "bow" in the first side, which is on the left. This is not unusual for thin plywood. I'll clamp and glue a frame to the front and the purpose will be to improve appearance, straighten the side, and provide a place to fasten a front screen:

Clamping and gluing the other side to the cabinet rear

When both sides are glued to the rear, I flip the assembly over and check the fit of the base, which is cut to the interior width.  Flipped, showing how the sides extend below the rear and bottom.  This is to prevent the cabinet from sliding off of the 3/8 inch diameter tubular rack that it will set upon:

Flipped, sides glued and with the rear on the top

Next step: attach bottom to cabinet using screws. Photo with rear glued to 1x1 side supports and bottom screwed to 1x1 side supports. I decided to screw the top and bottom so they could be replaceable if necessary. Ready for the top piece:

Bottom attached

The top was attached with four screws.  Note the overhang in all directions to prevent water from running into the edge of the plywood. The largest is on the front:

Basic box assembled

Set in place. Note the pitch of the roof from front to rear to shed water.  Ready for assembly of front frame, using approximate 1 x 2 inch scraps:

Set in place, ready for front frame assembly

Side view.  Note the 1 x 1 supports are cut to accept a front frame:

Side View prior to installing front frame

I assembled a front frame from four pieces of nominal 1 x 2 scraps. I glued the side pieces in place and screwed the top and bottom pieces into place. I purchased a quart of Rust-oleum sand gloss paint for the exterior and used Cabot gray solid wood stain for the interior.  The final step will be a front screen (I have some vinyl screening).  This to keep bugs and critters from  moving in.

Assembled and painted

The bottom piece of the frame was not a perfect 1 x 2.  I had to cut a slight recess to provide a flush front. You can see this was rough wood. Every piece I used had at least one smooth face. I always made sure a smooth face was used for gluing. To make this cut I used the saw from the miter box and did it by hand by clamping it to the cook station - work table. 

Recess cut to make the front frame flush

In this photo it can be seen how the sides of the box are longer and fit over the 3/8 tube support frame. This prevents the cabinet from sliding sideways and falling off the support frame.

Resting on the support tubing - now to add the screen and knob

Porcelain knob - from the nearby Ace Hardware

The screw that attaches the porcelain know was about 1/4 inch too long. I used my USA made "Four-Way Wire Crimper/Stripper Tool" to reduce the length of the screw. It includes several screw cutter dies.  I circled the area on the tool which has several of the dies.  It worked great!

 

Original Material: Roadtrek210.Blogspot.com (c) 2021

Roadtrek Propane Tank - Improper Fill Procedures

 

Level indicator on Propane Tank - 87% indicated - is it overfilled?
 How would we know?
 Is that important?

 

Proper and improper filling of the Roadtrek propane tank

There are correct, proper fill procedures for propane tanks. And then, there are improper fill procedures. Improper filling, i.e. "overfilling" can result in a dangerous situation. By comparison, underfilling is merely an inconvenience. This post is about how to fill the onboard Roadtrek propane tank to the proper level.  It is also about that mechanical dial indicator on the propane tank, and the remote LED LPG indicator inside the Roadtrek.  Not all Roadtreks have a remote LED indicator. This is not a "do-it-yourself" post. This is about education and awareness for owners. Only those trained and certified should handle propane.  Sadly, not all attendants are competent to do so and I am writing from experience.  However, I have never had my propane tank overfilled. Attendants have underfilled the tank. I monitor all filling procedures. 

Improper fill procedures can result in a dangerous situation. Propane tanks should never be filled more than 80%. The indicator in the photo above implies that the propane tank is more than 80% full.  If this is so, it is a dangerous situation.  However, the indicator is not there to be used by the attendant to fill the tank. The indicator and a remote LED dot display are for the Roadtrek owner to provide general information about the amount of propane in the tank. It is possible that the mechanical indicator in the photo above is in error. 

This post provides information about the proper procedure to avoid overfilling the propane tank.  It is an informational post and is not a training aid or tutorial.  If one knows the tank has been properly filled that instills confidence. If one knows that the proper procedures have been followed then one also knows what the number on that mechanical dial indicator is representing when the tank has been properly filled to 80% level, and not more or less. 

Underfilled tanks is another improper procedure, but when that occurs it may be inconvenient and it may mean that  you will run out of propane earlier than expected. That too is undesirable, particularly if cold weather RVing. 

Why is more than 80% dangerous?

Why are propane tanks only filled to 80%? Propane in the tank is liquid, and that liquid expands as the tank temperature increases. Above the liquid in the tank is gaseous propane. Propane in a gaseous state is what is burned. The various burners in the Roadtrek appliances are designed for gaseous propane. If liquid propane gets into the piping of the Roadtrek it may get to the burner for the 3-way refrigerator, the furnace or the rangetop as a liquid. Liquid propane will expand rapidly when exposed to air pressure at the burners and it may burn violently. 

The 80% fill point is a cushion to assure that only gaseous propane gets into the propane lines to your appliances. 

There are ample warnings about this in the various Roadtrek manuals. If you don't have one, they are available at the official Roadtrek.com website. 

How does an attendant determine when to shut off the propane when filling the tank?

Obviously, it is important not to overfill the propane tank.  How does an attendant know when to stop filling the tank?

He/she/it does not or should not use the mechanical dial indicator. These indicators are unreliable.  The tank is equipped with a more reliable device. 

The propane tank is equipped with an "outage" valve. This is a small valve mounted on the tank at the 80% full level. It is to be used by the attendant when filling the tank.

Here's a diagram showing the location of an "outage" or bleed valve on a Manchester Tank Co. propane tank, similar to the one in my Roadtrek 210P: 

When an attendant is filling the tank, he/she/it should open the outage valve. It will hiss as the tank is filling with propane, as some gaseous propane escapes. When the liquid propane reaches the level of the outage valve it will "sputter" and some liquid propane will be discharged. This indicates the tank is full to the 80% level.

At this point the attendant should cease filling and close the outage valve. 

Outage valve on the propane tank of my 2013 210P Roadtrek
The outage valve on your Roadtrek may be different

When he/she/it has removed the propane fill valve, you can check the level on the tank indicator. For newer Roadtreks this sensor not only provides local indication, it also transmits this information to the LED display inside your Roadtrek. Here's the tank level gauge in my 2013 210P:

Propane level indicator with wiring for remote indicator
About 30% level indicated

2013 210P "LPG" Propane remote level indicator
LEDs indicate somewhere between 2/3 and 100% level

How to read the mechanical indicator? Is it reliable?

In the photos above you will see the dial indicators on two different propane tanks. They both have a mechanical pointer and one has electrical wiring for a remote indication.  But are they accurate?  That is, do they accurately represent the level of propane in the tank? Most importantly, when the tank is properly filled to 80% what level do they display?

In fact these indicators may not be accurate. It is possible to establish two points for the indicator. One is the display when the tank is at the 80% level and the other is the 0% level. If we have an attendant fill the propane tank to the 80% level using the proper procedure, we can then observe the displayed level on the tank indicator. If it shows "F - 80%" or "Full" that's great. We can also monitor that on the remote LED display on the Roadtrek panel.  If the mechanical display does not show "F" but displays some other value, i.e. "70%" we can mark that in the Roadtrek manual we carry with us as the actual "full" point, in other words, in this circumstance when 70% is displayed the tank level is actually 80%. Similarly, we can check the remote LED indicator inside the Roadtrek if so equipped to see what it displays.

Frankly, there may be inconsistencies.  However, my concern when trekking is 1) I want to avoid unsafe situations and 2) I don't want to run out of propane for hot water. The only energy source for hot water in my 210P is propane. I have electric options for everything else. I use the LED indicator as an "approximation" for the propane tank level.  

Propane Safety Label on my 2013 210P:

Original Material: Roadtrek210P.blogspot.com (c) 2021

Roadtrek Propane Tank and Bleed Valve

 

Tank Rust - February 3, 2017

Preventative maintenance of the Propane Tank

In 2016 I slid under the Roadtrek and did an underside inspection,  I noticed some dings in the propane tanks, flaking of the enamel and some rust. When at the Southwestern Lily Pad  I cleaned the tank exterior, wire brushed the rusty areas and then brushed on a coat of Rust-Oleum white enamel.  The location of the tank is such that it can be struck by rocks and stuff kicked up while driving.

The paint stopped the rust and based upon a recent visual inspection it is in good condition, 5 years later.

Note: It is my understanding that the tank on my Roadtrek is double-walled. I've been a member of the FMCA Roadtrek International Chapter since 2013/2014 and a recent discussion about propane tanks included this comment by a member: “I toured the Roadtrek plant in Kitchener, Ontario a year ago last October. Our plant guide said the propane tank is double lined and any deterioration to the outside is cosmetic and the tank itself should never have to be replaced. "  I can't say that is accurate. Nevertheless, I think preventative maintenance of the exterior is worth it.

I recommend the Roadtrek Chapter and it purports to be "about one of the TOP THREE FMCA Chapters in membership."

Specifications, my 210P:

Roadtrek propane tank size: 10 gallons. 

Weight of 1 gallon of propane: 4.2 pounds

My tank 80% full = 33.6 pounds of propane.

For reference: a small "green" disposable bottle holds 1 pound of propane. 

Photos of Roadtrek tank, before and after cleaning and painting:

Cleaned and wire-brushed

After painting with Rust-Oleum white enamel

Condition of the propane tank -  July 26, 2021

Propane Tank Outage "Bleed" Valve

Some of the Roadtrek manuals include a propane system diagram and a diagram of the propane tank. The tank diagram identifies the location of the fill, shutoff, outage valve and tank level gauge.  If you don't have a manual go to the official Roadtrek website and download one.  They are in pdf format.  Hint: Roadtrek made substantial improvements to later manuals.  Check them on the website and you may find a lot of useful information. Roadtrek website:

Roadtrek owners manuals

Here's a diagram of an RV style tank made by Manchester Tank Co. It is marked to show the "outage valve".  Next is a photo of one style of outage valve made by Manchester tank, and the third is a photo of the tank on my 2013 210P. This was taken with the rear access cover removed.  The arrow points to the "outage" valve. This valve is to be opened by the attendant when filling the tank.  When the tank level reaches 80% liquid will come out of the hole in the center, signifying a full tank.  In my experience, not all attendants do this and so at times the tank is not properly filled.  Usually the tank is underfilled because the attendant shuts off the propane fill at an arbitrary number of gallons.  I prefer to avoid gas stations because the attendants have been trained to fill propane bottles, and are not familiar with on-board propane tanks:

Manchester Tank Co - Illustration of propane tank showing location of outage valve
This is not a Roadtrek propane tank! 

One style of "Outage" or "Bleed Valve" -  Manchester Tank Co .

2013 Roadtrek 210P Propane Tank Bleed Valve - also called an "outage" valve

Main Propane Tank Valve & Components:

1 = Coach Propane Shutoff Valve

2 = Propane Fill Connection

3 = "Outage" valve

4 = Propane fill indicator and sensor for remote indication

Note: I removed the BBQ 10 PSI regulator & hose on my 210P.

Safety Labels on Propane Cover:

Roadtrek had specific safety guidelines.  This is the label on my 2013 210P:

Original Material: Roadtrek210.blogspot.com (c) 2021