Oops, email is now working again.

Oops, turned out my ISP had put one of my email accounts to sleep, but didn't inform me of this.

Sorry to those who attempted to reach me via the email link on this blog. I've fixed the problem and my email now works again.

My thanks to Karen for sending me a comment in which she pointed this out.

I guess having my email working will be a fine way to start the new year right!

Progressive Energy Management System

It's been an unusual year, and my trek plans were interrupted.  More on that on coming posts. With treks delayed I spent what available time I had planning and installing improvements. One of those was a Progressive Industries Energy Management System "EMS-HW30C." This post includes a video of the unit which I installed.

I chose this unit for these reasons, in no particular order:

1. Ability to mount "inside" and protected from the weather. 
2. Remote indicator with ON-OFF (bypass) control. This I have mounted inside the rear coach of the RT where it can be readily observed day and night. 
3. The indicator displays line voltage, current (amperes) and frequency (Hertz).
4. The indicator displays error codes, which provide indication of power conditions and also the internal condition of the EMS. 
5. Multi-mode surge protection and easy replacement of MOVs. 
6. Automatic power shutdown via contactor if AC voltage falls below 104 volts or rises above 132 volts, or if the RT is accidentally connected to 240 Volts.
7. 15 second time delay on compressor start (adjustable). This avoids false trips. 
8. Ability to bypass (disable) all energy management via a switch on the remote indicator. Surge protection via Metal Oxide Varistors (MOVs) is always enabled. 
9. Lifetime warranty.
10. Proudly manufactured in the U.S.A.

I reviewed a number of possible locations including under the RT, inside an internal compartment, inside an external compartment, etc.

I also considered wiring the EMS before the generator or after. However, I decided for simplicity to install it in the main 120V power cable.

I decided to install in an outside storage compartment. That compartment is the location of the 30 ampere power cable. I also decided to install the EMS with twist-lock 30 ampere connectors. This allows easy removal when cleaning the RV, when the RV is stored for the winter, or if service od the EMS is necessary.

Here's a photo of the power cable modified with the twist-lock connectors. This is without the EMS in the compartment:

With the EMS in the compartment. Brick was temporary to be certain it wasn't standing in water:

Display

The following video was filmed on July 1, 2014, but uploaded today:

Side Door Screen Solution

We haven't had a bug problem, probably because of the weather we have had while using the camper van. Our travel plans were stopped this year by a number of issues. We did complete two spring treks and that was it until last week when we took a short 3-day shakedown before putting the camper into storage.

However, insects can be a nuisance. We do have an optional screen kit for the doors, and there is also a permanently installed screen on the window of the side entry door. Because of the cool weather early this year, insects weren't a problem.

However, it wasn't long and we pushed the side window screen out of the groove. This is a relatively easy thing to fix. Eight screws and the screen can be removed from the side door window, stretched and put back together.

Of course, it would only be a matter of time before there were more serious damage. I decided to make a permanent modification.

Solution
The problem was caused by putting one's hand on the edge below the window when exiting the vehicle. That might be to open the door fully or simply to steady oneself. Here is the solution:

Material: 1/2 x 1/2 inch aluminum angle, cut to length, file rough edges smooth and round.

We've debated the color, but for now the aluminum color is helpful and catches the eye when egressing the vehicle. I drilled two holes in the angle to match the existing mounting screws. This was a simple job.

Second Problem - Small Gap Around Screen
While I was at it, I sealed a small gap in the corner of the screen. This was easy with DAP "Quick Seal" which is paintable. I chose an almond color which I can also use around the home. I'll paint it black to match the trim of the screen window.

10,000 miles in 9 months - Our "Tiny Home"

Well, in the last 9 months we've exceeded 10,000 miles in our camper vans. Some of this was in a rental and most was in a Roadtrek 210P. Let me say, we've thoroughly enjoyed this and one of my sons wants to go on a north woods fishing trip in July, which I am currently researching.

Our 9 months have provided some insights.

1. Our observations are based on periods which span two weeks of living continuously in a camper van. Between treks we return to home base. 
2. We really liked the rental  Sprinter. I recommend this option to anyone who wants a really fun, upgraded travel experience at a modest cost. 
3. We didn't like like the large sliding door and the limited interior width of the Sprinter. However, Roadtrek's Sprinter implementation via the CS-Adventurous appears to be quite nice.
4. We opted for a new, fully equipped 210P for about 40% less than the Sprinter. (Includes generator, electric king size bed, AGM batteries with inverter, rear mount spare and a solar system I installed). The Chevy based 210P offers a wider aisle, exterior spare at waist level and a 5 cu. ft. refrigerator with convection oven/microwave, heat pump, air conditioner, propane furnace and two fresh water tanks. Really nice for anyone who wants to spend weeks in national parks and on the road, and wants to do so with daylight temperatures from 20F to 110F. 
5. I am a former backpacker and "ground camper" who has camped in winter (-25F) and summer. For example,  I once canoed 90 miles in Quetico with boys of modest skills. I was sufficiently proficient that as a Scoutmaster I was awarded the BSA "District Award of Merit" for my numerous endeavors. My point in stating this is to emphasize that using a sophisticated camper van based on a Sprinter chassis or more recently the Roadtrek 210P is really travelling and camping in the "lap of luxury." 
6. I did some research into maintenance of the bluetec engine (which is a marvel). However, in the end is it about maintainability and cost per mile. In a Class B motorhome it is also about interior dimensions. Nor do I have any need for the "cache" of a Mercedes badge on the front of the vehicle. So the Chevy based 210P won. Not necessarily better. It's all about allocation of personal resources and amenities of the selected camper van. 
7. We've taken four treks ranging from about 1500 miles to 3500 miles each. 
8. Most of the 10,000 miles was in a Roadtrek 210P.
9. I've added a solar panel charger and solar panels to the RT, a Progressive Industries EMS  and an improved rear view camera system. Total cost less than $500. 
10. Future posts will also include some Quadcopter video. 
11. I am not retired. So doing all of this is a matter of balance. 

The next few posts will include our experiences on recent treks, a brief review of outdoor cooking options and the installation of the Progressive Industries "Energy management system."

AGM Batteries Sulfation, RV AGM Battery Care and Charging - Part 2

This is part 2 about care of AGM batteries in a "motor home." The previous post is part 1.

After a significant amount of research into the chemistry,  technology and charging of AGM batteries I became concerned about battery damage including sulfation and freezing the battery electrolyte. I want to achieve longer battery life and have 100% rated battery power available when I am off the grid and am not running the generator. I decided I needed to make an improvement and installed a solar panel and solar controller-battery charger for my coach batteries. This post looks more closely at the research that led to my decision. I'll provide in brief the why's, as well as some of the "do's and don'ts." I am not promoting any product here. This describes the issues and the solution I chose, and provides background information about that decision. This may be helpful to others.

I chose a 50 watt solar panel and a "Solar Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator" rated for use with solar systems up to 180 Watts. The solar panel is not used when the vehicle is in motion. I decided on this approach because:

1. The replacement price of the coach batteries would be about $250.00-$400.00
2. The Camper Van may be stored for weeks and sometimes for months
3. It's desired to achieve the maximum life from the coach batteries
4. It's desired to have the batteries provide the maximum rated power throughout their life
5. When stored,  120V shore power is not available. Solar power is the only available power option unless the generator or vehicle motor is running.

The following post provides, in brief, what I have learned on this subject and how what I learned has influenced my decision  Why would I want to do this? I'd like to spare the reader the time to replicate what I have researched.

How to Achieve Full Life and Power from AGM Batteries
That is the goal. Get maximum power and longest life from the AGM coach batteries. Doing so should provide a more pleasurable trekking experience and reduce the annual cost of operating the camper van.

Deep Cycle AGM Batteries require complete charging, but not overcharging to achieve full lifespan, avoid freezing damage and provide the amount of power expected from them.

Roadtrek states in their 2014 210P manual "AGM Battery Warranty....... is voided if AGM batteries are tampered with, topped off with distilled water or allowed to sulfate or freeze due to lack of charge."

Here are the most important things that dictate battery life:

• Preventive maintenance
• Depth-of-Discharge (avoid discharge below 75% charged)
• Charging to a full charge
• Temperature conditions of the batteries (cooler is better). Batteries are designed for an average annual temperature of 77F (25C). If the average annual temperature is 95F (35C) then the battery life will be reduced by about 50 percent. 

What is full life? It varies. 3-5 years is fairly typical according to published information. However, AGM batteries are reputed to achieve up to 10 years if properly maintained, kept cool and if used in such a manner to maximize battery life. I decided I would prefer to replace these batteries every 6-8 years instead of every three years. I also decided I do want the maximum battery power to be available when needed.

Avoiding Sulfation and Extending Battery Life
Sulfation if left unchecked will kill the coach batteries. Sulfation begins when the batteries are not fully charged, and storing them unless "float charged" continues the sulfation process. The RT and most RVs include charging systems for the coach batteries. However, there are periods in which these 120V or engine and generator powered charging systems are not available. That is a problem. So how can I achieve my stated goal of long life at maximum power from these batteries under my actual storage and charging conditions?

Frequent charging while avoiding overcharging of AGM batteries will reduce, but not eliminate sulfation. Sulfation occurs each time a battery is discharged. Storing a battery is reputed to cause self-discharge and sulfation, and this is more serious at higher temperatures, above 75F.  Batteries which are not used weekly may experience sulfation.

Sulfation is the gradual coating of the positive lead plate of the battery with lead sulfate (PbSO4). Simultaneously the battery electrolyte, which is sulfuric acid (H2SO4) on losing SO4 molecules becomes diluted by water. This occurs during battery discharge. The chemistry is oxygen molecules (O2) from the positive lead plate combine with hydrogen molecules (H2) from the battery acid and the result is water (H2O).

Because AGM batteries are chemical devices, cold weather will slow the sulfation process while hot weather speeds it up. In other words, full charging may be more important at higher temperatures. On the other hand, as sulfation occurs battery electrolyte (acid) is diluted by water molecules and will freeze at lower temperatures than the normal electrolyte of a fully charged battery. Such freezing can damage the battery.

Normal charging does not remove all sulfate molecules from the plates. Over time they build up on the plate and ultimately contribute to the demise of the battery. Sulfation, or the formation of lead sulfate can permanently reduce battery capacity. If unchecked it can kill the battery.

Keeping batteries fully charged and reducing sulfation will extend the life of the batteries and provide optimum capacity. Battery life expectancy is directly the result of how well these batteries are maintained and how they are used (or abused). Key points are:

• Don't overcharge.
• Don't undercharge
• Keep fully charged and don't store undercharged.
• Use and keep the batteries at their average design temperature.  
• Apply a periodic full-saturation charge to de-sulfate the batteries.
• Don't over-deplete; reduce the average "depth of discharge." and avoid "deep discharge".
• Reduce the number of "discharge-charge" cycles. 
• Don't charge if over 120F and don't charge if the battery is frozen. 

Some of the above might not be possible. That is why many batteries don't survive for more than 3 years according to some published sources. However, I'm convinced that good care and attention to these details will extend battery life for most users. One manufacturer of battery chargers/maintainers/desulphators claims that certain models of their product "can more than double the useful life of new batteries." I can't verify that. However, it's prudent to ask why some batteries fail within 3 years while others go on for 6 or more years.

It is my understanding there are two types of sulfation: 1) reversible (soft sulfation), and 2) permanent (hard sulfation). Reversible sulfation is normal and can be corrected by a specific charging regimen. When charging, the PbSO4 is converted to lead and the SO4 combines with hydrogen to form electrolyte. Non-reversible sulfation occurs when a battery has been in a discharged condition, or "low state-of-charge" for a longer period, be it weeks or months. In such a state the sulfate crystals become permanent, cannot be reversed by charging methods and the capacity of the battery is permanently reduced and impaired.

Charging and Reducing or Reversing Sulfation
Special charging techniques are reputed to reverse sulfation.  Battery charging states include:

• Bulk (high, constant current)
• Absorption (constant voltage)
• Float (hold at 100% charge)
• Equalization.(controlled absorption overcharge)
• De-sulfation

A microprocessor "smart" charger will include three or four of these states. Special chargers provide a fifth state called "de-sulfation." One charger manufacturer declares "Patented high-frequency pulse desulfation is designed to reverse and eliminate battery sulfation."

There is some controversy about the claims of "reversing sulfation." One critic states "simple, electronic de-sulfation is a one size fits all approach." On the other hand, I've seen no comments or evidence that such pulse desulfation techniques can harm the batteries.

How to Apply a "Full Saturation" Charge
Such a charge is a general recommendation for lead acid batteries. However, some AGM battery manufacturers have specific requirements of this type of charge and if not followed it is possible to damage the batteries. This type of charge is also called an "Equalizing" charge. This is done by a deliberate overcharge of the batteries. The problem with sealed AGM batteries is there is no way to measure the electrolyte condition and so the equalizing charge is guesswork and may be based on terminal voltage. My guess is it's better to use a good 4-stage charger and avoid deep discharges.

Choosing a Battery Charger
The charger included in your RV or camper van is probably a three-stage "smart" charger which includes bulk, absorption and float stages.  "Float" charging is not "trickle" charging; a trickle charger can overcharge batteries!

I decided to add a "Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator" which was designed for use with solar panels. I also selected a solar panel which is overcapacity. This approach compensates for the lowered solar power that is available when daylight is minimized, such as during winter hours or when overcast. It also provides for a higher charging rate when there is optimal sunlight available.

Using a 50 watt solar panel provides a maximum 4.17 amperes of charging current at 12V during peak sunlight conditions. That's more than sufficient for maintaining or topping off the batteries.

Overcharging is to be avoided. I decided to use a solar charger that includes temperature compensation with float charging. The temperature sensor is attached to one of the battery terminals. This permits charging in cold and hot weather. The manufacturer states compensation works over the range 0F to 130F.

The solar charging system is only used when the batteries are not being charged via 120V shore power, generator power or via a running vehicle engine. It is intended to be used at any time the vehicle is stationary. The solar charger is connected directly to the batteries and operates independent of the position of the battery disconnect switch.

How Long Does it Take to Charge the Batteries?
The answer to that question is determined by the amount of sunlight available and the condition of the batteries. The purpose of the solar charger is to take the batteries from a condition of 85% to 90% charged to full charge, or apply a "topping" charge. Once at full charge, the goal is to "float" and desulfate the batteries while avoiding overcharge. Temperature compensation reduces the float charge as the battery temperature increases.

To bring a discharged battery to full charge can take 7 to 10 hours or longer. That is not the purpose of the solar system, but if there is sufficient daylight hours such charging is a possibility.

How Does "Depth of Discharge" Influence Battery Life?
Any AGM battery has a service life which is measured in number of discharges and the "depth of discharge." As a rule of thumb, the less the "depth of discharge" the longer the life of the battery, but it should be discharged to 90% peak when used. In other words, if used the battery should be discharged 10% and  a battery which is repeatedly used and discharged to 50% of its peak capacity and then completely recharged may be usable for 1000 cycles. If one cycle occurs each day, then the battery may have a life of 3 years.

That same battery, if discharged to 75% of its peak capacity each day and then fully recharged may be usable for 2000 cycles. Under such conditions the battery may have a life of 6 years.

Furthermore, that same battery if discharged to 25% of its peak capacity each day and then fully recharged may be usable for 500 cycles. Under such conditions the battery may have a life of only 16 months. Discharging a battery to less than 25% capacity is to be avoided.

What are Battery Storage Choices?
Batteries can be disconnected and then charged if they are not going to be used for long periods of time. It's best to store the battery in a cool or cold place (sulfation is slowed when it is below 75F). Here's a few methods:

1. Turn the battery switch "off" and then connect a 3- or 4- stage microprocessor controlled battery charger and fully charge the battery. If the charger includes an automatic "float" mode it can be left connected to the battery for long periods of time. Check your manufacturer. 
2. If the battery is fully charged connect a "float" charger, again check your manufacturer.
3. Alternately, the battery can be removed in the vehicle and kept above freezing while a float charge is applied. 

Avoiding the Freezing of Batteries
If the electrolyte in a lead acid battery freezes, the battery will probably be damaged. The capacity of such a damaged battery will be reduced. What are the freezing temperatures of a depleted battery? A battery in good condition that is 100% charged has the maximum concentration of sulfuric acid as electrolyte. As the battery discharges, the concentration of the acid is reduced as water molecules replace acid molecules in the electrolyte. Here are typical freezing temperatures for lead acid batteries at different charge states:

100% Charged = (-) 77F, or (-) 67C.
75% Charged = (-) 35F or (-) 37C
50% Charged = (-) 10F or (-) 23C

Other Sources
There are a lot of web based sources on AGM battery maintenance and charging. Enter  "AGM battery maintenance", "AGM battery charging" or "AGM Battery desulfation" in your favorite search engine and you'll get a list.

AGM Coach Battery Issues - Do It Yourself Solar Charging

This post looks at achieving the maximum life and performance from AGM batteries and also the steps an owner who doesn't have access to 24/7 120V charging power can take to keep the batteries in his/her "motor home" at full charge. It includes some of the background information I used to decide on solar power for charging batteries, and it includes a short video.

The Problem
Many motor homes and camper vans include coach batteries. Depending upon how many batteries are included and their capacity, they can be used for powering many things. Typical uses include the water pump, interior and exterior lighting, the refrigerator and small appliances via an inverter. Some motor homes include solar panels for recharging of these batteries. Some do not.

Absorbent Glass Matt batteries, or AGM batteries are very different from the old lead-acid and gelled electrolyte batteries. AGM batteries have a thin fiberglass mat or screen between the lead plates. The fiberglass mat is saturated with acid and is compressed and sandwiched between the plates. This tight packing makes the interior components tolerant of vibration. They are ideal for use in moving vehicles.  Many AGM batteries include bolt-on terminals which are reputed to give a more reliable connection.

AGM batteries are not cheap, but the best ones can last longer than other, less costly batteries. Perhaps 5 to 8 years if given proper attention.

As with all things, there are pros and cons. This post will look into some of these. Part 2 will delve more deeply into batteries. This post addresses the need to keep AGM batteries fully charged.

AGM - Are all Deep Cycle?
Not all AGM batteries are alike. Some are designed to be what is called a "deep cycle" battery and others are not.  So what is a "deep cycle" battery? Such a battery is designed to be discharged and recharged many times. "Deep Cycle" means the battery can be discharged to a lower level of peak capacity and recover. Some manufacturer's state that a deep cycle battery will last three to four times longer than a starting battery under the same conditions.

The batteries I am concerned about are deep cycle batteries.

Advantages of AGM Deep Cycle Batteries
If properly maintained, these are some of the advantages of these batteries:

• Improved resistance to shock and vibration
• Totally sealed
• Reliable
• No acid fumes
• No spilled acid
• No need to add water
• If fully charged can tolerate freezing temperatures (temperatures as low as -40F, but check with your battery manufacturer)
• Longer life as compared to a starting battery

How Do I Maintain a Deep Cycle AGM Battery?
That's a good question and as these are expensive batteries they do need to be properly maintained to achieve their full design life. These are sealed batteries so there is no water to add. Does that mean that the battery is "maintenance free?" No, it does not.

So what do I have to do? Most important is to keep these batteries properly charged! For motor homes or campers which are plugged in each day, this should be rather easy because these vehicles include chargers powered by the 120V shore power. Some vehicles charge the coach batteries when the vehicle engine is running. Others include solar charging systems. Some vehicles include all of the above and a gasoline or propane generator which can also recharge the batteries! However, sulfation remains a problem in lead-acid batteries. More on that later.

The two things to do to achieve long life from AGM deep cycle batteries are:

1. Recharge daily to a full charge.
2. Don't discharge too low. Don't fully discharge.

Is AGM Battery Maintenance Important?
Yes it is. Roadtrek has this statement in the current 210P manual:

AGM Battery Warranty Batteries are warranted by the battery manufacturer for one year from the "In Service Date" of the Roadtrek. 

1. Warranty is voided if AGM batteries are tampered with, topped off with distilled water or allowed to sulfate or freeze due to lack of charge. 

So there you have it. Owners must keep their coach batteries charged. Roadtrek has specific instructions about this for dealers, too. Here's two photos showing the stickers on a 2013 210P. The notice about the "Deep Cycle Gel Battery" is specific (this Roadtrek did have AGM batteries):

Charging AGM Batteries When Storing the Motor Home
For anyone who stores their motor home for long periods of time, there are only three ways to get the power necessary to charge the batteries:

1. Shore Power - 120V plug-in connection.
2. Solar Power.
3. Frequent vehicle or generator use. 

However, not all storage facilities include the necessary 120V power for charging, and not all motor homes include a solar power charging system. If you are like many who store their motor homes, you may not start and use the vehicle for two, four or more weeks. Is this a problem? Yes it is. So what to do? One possibility is to remove the batteries and charge them in your garage. However, that might not be easy as these weigh about 70 lbs. each. I decided the most effective method to allow storing the vehicle outdoors with the batteries inside was to install a solar panel and a solar battery charger. That's what I did, and I place the solar panel inside the vehicle when in use for charging. No rooftop installation required! A video is included in this post.

Solar Power Charger and Sulfation
When the batteries are not being drained by daily use, it's possible to keep them charged if there is sufficient solar energy (daylight) available. For anyone who only has access to solar energy during vehicle storage, this might be the only way for daily recharging.

Will using solar energy and a charger avoid sulfation and are there other issues? In a later post I'll give a more thorough description of what sulfation is. For now, suffice it to say that during battery discharge sulfate molecules (SO4) move from the battery acid (electrolyte) to a lead plate to form crystals of lead sulfate (PbSO4). This is called "sulfation." This interferes with the ability of the battery to perform. It reduces battery capacity, which is simply stated the amount of power a battery can provide. Less power means you run out of power for your camper van electrical devices sooner than expected.

A second problem is as the battery discharges the acid concentration decreases and the electrolyte changes slowly to water. This makes the battery electrolyte more susceptible to freezing. Freezing can damage the battery. Uh, Oh!

What Type of Solar Controller-Charger?
I decided to purchase a controller which the manufacturer states has the following features:

• Full-time automatic battery desulphation
• Uses US Patented pulse battery desulfation technology
• One year unconditional money back warranty and five year "no hassle" warranty on parts & labor
• Plug and run operation - fully automatic easy efficient operation
• Never over-charges - you can keep it plugged in for weeks, months, even a year 
• Temperature compensation - prevents over and under charging from freezing to 130 degrees
• Solar battery charger maximizes battery life and capacity and reconditions weak batteries. Maintains up to 2 batteries at a time. Short circuit, spark and polarity protection. 
• When used as a maintainer....is guaranteed to maximize your battery's life and storage capacity. 

Installation Issues
Finding a convenient place to install the controller and near the batteries can be challenging. The charger manufacturer states "....it is important the controller be in the same general temperature environment as the battery(s)." The temperature sensor lead length is not to be altered and that placed a further restriction. I decided I didn't want  a rooftop mounting of the solar panels at this time. I concluded that a larger wattage solar panel could be put on the dash to charge the batteries via a solar controller-charger. I decided on a 50 watt panel because this would provide sufficient power under lower light and reduced daylight hours, such as in winter or with the windshield not clean. It would allow the controller to charge the batteries even on overcast days. I also wanted simplified controller mounting and wiring.

The manufacturer of the charger-controller says this about mounting the solar controller-charger:

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON USING PRODUCT OUTDOORS: Weather-tight enclosure. Always mount units in vertical position with cord sets exiting downward to ensure weather tight integrity. Unit must be mounted this way to ensure long term trouble-free life including weatherproof integrity. Mounting in any other manner or using unmounted (parallel to ground) except indoors may cause unit to fail due to water intrusion that is unable to drain correctly to avoid damage. 

Installing a Solar Charging System
So how to go about this? Three things are necesary:

1. Solar Panel
2. Solar Controller - Charger
3. Interconnecting cables

Here is a photo of the battery compartment of a Roadtrek 210P, model year 2013. It shows two AGM batteries. As you can see the battery compartment is very tight:

Here's a brief video of the installation of a Solar Battery Condition Charger and Controller with a 50-Watt solar panel:

Rear View Camera Installation - Part 3

Update November 2018. I replaced the monitor with a duplicate this month.

This is Part 3 of a 3-part post about installing a rear view camera and monitor.

This part provides some information about the wiring for powering up the monitor via selector switch. I did only slight editing and so this is a bit longer than is necessary.

The photo shows the original GPS, the new monitor and the toggle switches. The right-most switch powers the 7-inch color monitor and wireless receiver. When the switch is in the "UP" position these are powered "ON" and the green LED is illuminated.

Test before Installing
Let me emphasize that it is extremely important to test everything before installing. This includes the camera, transmitter/receiver, monitor and any switch panel. Failure to do so can extend the time required by a substantial amount. It is also possible to do very expensive damage.

I estimate my total time for this project was about 8 hours. This includes the time spent reviewing different camera systems by different suppliers, the final selection process and the ordering and arrangement for filming as well as the actual installation time. Time was reduced by preparation of sketches before any wiring, thorough research of the existing camera system, and a careful check of the existing chassis wiring. Time was increased by the video filming. However, I did not include the time to put together this blog.

GPS and New Rear-View Monitor

Components
To provide some idea of what is required, here is a basic parts list for a single toggle switch installation:

1. Two-Position maintained contact toggle switch (I used a three position switch).
2. Green LED rated 12 VDC.
3. 1/2 watt resistor to limit the current through the LED.  680 Ohms recommended by LED manufacturer. 
4. Terminal Strip
5. Miscellaneous #18AWG wire in various colors (red, white, black, yellow)
6. Solder and soldering iron
7. Wire tags, wire ties, crimp-on terminals
8. Hand tools, drill, volt-ohmmeter, electrical tape, 12 volt battery for final system testing before installation. 

Alternative Approach
One can also use a simple cigarette-lighter plug which is available for about $5.00. This eliminates the switch panel, reduces the cost and substantially reduces the assembly time.

The Video

Rear View Camera Installation - Part 2

Update November 2018. I replaced the monitor with a duplicate this month.

I've been asked what I used, who the supplier was, how much it cost. and also a point was raised about possible problems with wireless cameras.

The following video shows some of the wiring issues for installing the monitor and provides further details about the actual install. There will be a part 3, which provides further details about the installation of the control switches. However, I do suggest that most readers consider using a simple "cigarette lighter" plug to power the receiver and monitor. I recommend this for several reasons:

1. The installed cost will be lower. 
2. The amount of work will be less. 

Before proceeding, I also want to address the following:

1. Question: Why haven't I published a parts list? Answer: This blog is not a specific recommendation for a specific product. I am willing to send an email to anyone who requests this information. However, I cannot certify or provide any warranty for products made by someone else and purchased or installed by the reader. 
2. Q: Why did I go wireless? A: Primary reason is to avoid running wiring from the front of the camper van to the rear. For older units which are out of warranty, this might be an acceptable solution. For a camper van which is under the CV manufacturer's warranty, making certain modifications might void a warranty. The changes I made were to the chassis and chassis electrical. There was no hole drilling in the coach section or running of wires through the camper coach. That should keep Roadtrek or whomever happy. 
3. Q: Are there issues with wireless transmitters and receivers for cameras? A: I can't say that I've encountered any to date with the units I purchased. These use technology similar to some of the wireless home phones, which has improved significantly in recent years. That said, I haven't stored the camper van at 0F or cooked it at 110F with the system installed. I will, of course, remove the monitor when not in use. How the camera and transmitter/receiver pair will fare over time is anyone's guess. I also need to state that I deliberately chose a transmitter/receiver rated 10 meters (about 33 feet maximum separation) and I also took steps to minimize anything between the transmitter/receiver pair which would reduce or interfere (attenuate) the signal. The actual separation is about 18 feet and with little or no metal to attenuate the signal.
4. Q: Do you recommend this procedure over the manufacturer's? A:  Certainly not. This is intended as an enhancement. I suspect that most camper van owners decide at one time or another to get enhancements or make limited improvements. That may be as simple as a water pressure regulator, a surge protector, or a better rear view camera system. 

So enjoy the video. Part 3 will show certain aspects of the toggle/selector switch fabrication.

Rear View Camera Installation

Update November 2018. I replaced the monitor with a duplicate this month.


The Roadtrek 210 came with an integral GPS and rear-view camera. The camera was wired to power-up when the vehicle is put in reverse. In my opinion these types of vehicles have serious obstructions of the rear view. Vans, be they MB Sprinters or Chevy Express vans have large central columns where the two rear doors join. Many of these vehicles also have rear couches and seats which further obstruct the rear view. This is not a problem limited to Roadtreks. It's inherent in the design of these vehicles which have been adapted for use as camper vans.

The solution is a good rear view camera with depth gauge, night (dusk) vision and color which can be used while the vehicle is in forward motion. I decided to add one. This photo shows the result. The gPS is to the left and the new rear-view monitor is to the right This will be one of several posts on the camera and monitor installation. The installation was not too difficult. There is a video at the end of this post which shows how a wireless camera was installed. Note, however, that 12VDC power is required and this is shown in the video. The next post on this subject will show the installation of the monitor.

GPS and New Rear-View Monitor

Selection of Components
I decided to make the install as simple as possible but I did have some requirements. To simplify I avoided front to rear wiring. I decided to use a wireless system and I selected the core components from two suppliers, with miscellaneous parts from a third.

1. Color Camera rear license mounted with (8) IR LEDs.
2. 7 inch color monitor with swivel mount.
3. Wireless transmitter and receiver.
4. Miscellaneous, including wire, two toggle switches, two green LED indicators, terminal block, etc. 

I purchased the components from three suppliers:

1. Amazon retailer for camera and monitor.
2. Amazon retailer for wireless transmitter/receiver.
3. Fry's electronics for toggle switches, LEDs, wire, terminal block. 

Cost of Basic Components

The cost of the camera with license plate bracket and (8) IR LEDs, color 7 inch monitor and transmitter/receiver pair was about $105 (US) plus shipping and any tax. 

The Components

Here are the three major components. The transmitter/receiver came in a bag with minimal information to aid assembly. 

Transmitter/Receiver Pair, Rearview Camera and Montior

Test Setup

I decided to build a test system which would power up the camera, monitor, transmitter and receiver. This was straightforward as I own a small, portable automotive compressor which includes a 12V DC battery and cigarette lighter plug-in.  I purchased the cigarette lighter plug and cord at Fry's. I checked the polarity f the camera and monitor and labelled the plug to match prior to wiring anything to the plug (red is positive:

Test Power Plug 

I then assembled the receiver and transmitter components and wired them to the test power plug. You will note that the monitor includes two RCA style plugs (yellow). This is because the monitor is a two channel device. One plug is for AV1 and the other for AV2. I covered the unused plug with electrical tape prior to installing. You will also notice that the transmitter includes a power cable with inline fuse and connector for power. It also includes a video connector. This made the wiring of the camera straightforward:

Monitor and Receiver Wiring with Temporary Power Wiring

Rear-View Camera and Transmitter with Temporary Power Wiring

Power Up the Test Wired Camera and Monitor

I then powered them up to see how well I had wired them and to see how they worked, prior to the more time consuming final installation. This is the image with the camera looking up at the ceiling in the living room:

Powered Up System in the Living Room

Final Details

At this point I was ready for the final details, which included a toggle switch to power-up the monitor on demand, and the design of the toggle switch plate. I also had decided to re-wire the rear view camera that came with the Roadtrek camper van. So I added a second toggle switch and LED. This could permit the use of the existing camera as an manual rear-veiw camera as well as an automatic backup camera powered when the vehicle is in reverse.

The video is not all-inclusive. I did drill a small hole in the plastic behind the license plate so I could pass the cable from the camera to the wireless trasmitter. This hole also served as the pass-through for the 12VDC power cable to the transmitter. This wiring is shown in the photo above. 

Both toggles and LEDs are shown in the first photo of this post.

Planning Trek One for 2014

The weather has been colder than normal, and we have gotten about 61 inches of snow this season. That's about five times what we got last year and better than double a normal year.

The snow is creeping up to my dormer window. Cabin fever has set in. So what to do?

Planning the Next Trek

That's what we are doing. Questions to be answered include:

• Where to go.
• When to go. 
• How to get there.

For the present, we are hunkered down here in the Midwest. Last year we had about 12 inches of snow. In a typical year we get about 26 inches. This year we have 60 inches and counting. What a bounty! It seems I'd have to drive about 1,000 miles to get to good weather, and on the route I'd pass through more snow and ice. 

A few weeks ago, returning from a business trip to California, the temperature when I got off the plane and stepped out of O'hare Airport was 80F colder. Shazam! Now that will wake one up. 

I've been in Wyoming in the winter, experienced -65F wind chills in Iowa and so I can't say this is all that arduous a winter. Here in the Midwest, we get to experience this from time to time. No Biggie! Of course, for Tom Skilling this is an even bigger bounty. Here's my formula. Take whatever Mr. Skilling says and pick the low number. Over time that will be closer to reality. For example, 2 to 6 inches of snow "predicted?" Then use 2 inches and look outside in the morning. 

However, I must admit that it is somewhat daunting to plan a trek in the warm sunshine under these conditions. Yet, Spring is only 36 days away. What I am experiencing each day is temporary and fleeting. I'm of the opinion that when we get to 30 days, that will mark the commencement of the "downhill run." Yes, I know, the arrival of Spring, as marked by March 20 does not mean the arrival of good weather. That is not news. When I was a small child we would sing nursery rhymes and other ditties. I recall "April showers bring May flowers." When I was a child I thought everyone was insane; we didn't see flowers in any abundance until June. Then there was that song from "Easter Parade." It spoke of parades, clover and bonnets. We were hunkered down and walking around in boots.  To wear one's spring best for Easter was an invitation to jack frost to chill your bones and for cold and soggy socks. 

       Easter Parade
       In your easter bonnet, with all the frills upon it,
       You’ll be the grandest lady in the easter parade.
       I’ll be all in clover and when they look you over, I’ll be the proudest fellow in the easter parade.
       On the avenue, fifth avenue, the photographers will snap us,
       And you’ll find that you’re in the rotogravure.
       Oh, I could write a sonnet about your easter bonnet,
       And of the girl I’m taking to the easter parade.

Nevertheless, I am building my "to do" list and planning for that first trek.

Sprinter Camper Van - What Did We Learn?

In October, we rented a 19 ft. Sprinter camper van. This was our inauguration into campervanning! This post is the follow-up to that trek. It includes our personal assessments of the trip after numerous discussions and as a consequence of our planning for 2014 treks.

The questions we were striving to answer is this "Is a Camper Van in our future?" and "What amenities and features are essential in order for us to achieve our stated goals?"

At the completion of our trek into Utah with the 19 ft. Sprinter, the spouse and I made a list of positives and negatives. This was an appraisal of what worked, and what didn't. It included our personal opinions based on our individual perspectives about our wants, needs and desires. Obviously, some of this was the consequence of our preparation and also a reflection on our expectations, fulfilled or not. However, it's important to emphasize that the trip was a resounding success. We both enjoyed the camper van, the National Parks and the entire trek.

What Did We Learn?
Here are a few observations. A link to the detailed post about that trek is to the right.

First, about general information:

1. Our trek commenced about one week after the re-opening of the National Parks because of the government shutdown. As a consequence, the traffic was abnormal. Some businesses which serve tourists such as ourselves had already given up for the year and were closed. Our experience was not a normal one for that time of year. 
2. Weather in southwest Utah can vary substantially in the fall. Add altitude changes and temperatures will swing throughout the day.  If sunny, it was generally in the 30s at night with a daytime high in the 60s. The peak temperature was about 1:00 PM and decreased quickly after 4:00 PM. 
3. Bryce Canyon National Park was the coldest and had experienced snowfall prior to our arrival. Mid-October snow is not unusual. There was a tangible cold breeze coming across the wall and on our backs. 
4. Arches National Park was in the 40's at 8:00 AM but warmed quickly if sunshine was present. It felt downright "hot" by noon after hiking for several hours. . 
5. Arches National Park may well be the "Disneyland" of the area. Traffic can be a problem. Landscape Arch is best visited early in the morning. Later in the morning extreme driving caution is warranted in the vicinity of Delicate Arch. 
6. Canyonlands National Park was warm in the afternoon when we visited. It is by far the least visited of the national parks on our itinerary.. 
7. Clothing. Obviously, layering is essential because of the variation in daylight temperatures. Non-slip, comfortable hiking shoes are helpful/ One can expect to encounter sand, gravel, stone, possible mud and various trip hazards. 
8. We were dressed appropriately with hat, gloves, jeans, good socks, fall jacket, hoody, Polar Tec vest, both shortsleeve and longsleeve shirts available, and sun glasses. Sun screen was in our kit.  
9. Sleeping in Fall season temperatures. Either a sleeping bag, or a comforter are essential at night. 
10. Having slip-ons to avoid cold toes is helpful. I brought a pair of those hospital socks with non-slip bottoms. I used them in the evening and at night while in the camper van. 
11. We used micro-fiber towels. Definitely a plus. We also had a spare set of the cotton variety. Great for stepping on after a shower, if nothing else!
12. Use of a cooler as a staples organizer was helpful.
13. I bought various straps. Essential!
14. I also brought a light cord 1/8" x 25' and a few clips. Helpful. 
15. Having a variety of plastic bags and plastic ware for the refrigerator is helpful. 
16. We used (2) 1 gallon containers for drinking water and refilled several 16 oz bottles for use while hiking. 
17. Having a compass and binoculars is a handy thing. 

RV comments:

1. The 19 ft. Sprinter diesel was great at speeds up to 75 MPH. We seldom achieved 80 MPH. The maximum was by choice, not necessity. 
2. A toilet is essential. A larger bath space would be nice. 
3. We never used the onboard shower. This was because 1) Temperatures were moderate; 2) We didn't want to clean it; 3) We were able to hit the showers at campgrounds in the area. 
4. We'e "foodies." We like to cook and we enjoy what we cook for each other. 1) The refrigerator was minimal for our needs and we would prefer larger; 2) The food preparation area was also minimal. We switched off the breaker above the electric hot plate and used a cutting board on it as a surface. However, the flip table which was available when the sliding door was open was really handy. 3) The electric hotplate was adequate, but we have gas at home and so we have an acquired preference for gas or propane. 4) Having two hot plates available and no other means of food preparation crimped our style.

Detailed Comparison - Sprinter and Chevy Camper Vans

Taking the keys on the roadtrek 210P

This post provides our impressions and a comparison of our experience gained using two vehicles for about a week each for long distance treks of over 1000 miles. The camper vans were:

• Sprinter 2500 diesel "High Roof" with all-electric coach. "19 feet long."
• Chevrolet Express 3500 gasoline with electric/propane coach. "21 feet long."

Both of these vehicles got the job done and we were comfortable in both. Yet these were two very different vehicles. This is not about what's better. That is a matter of individual opinion.

The 19 footer was about 19 feet 6 inches in length and the 21 footer was about 21 feet 6 inches in length. That two foot difference yielded a significant difference in interior space. However, the fundamental design of the vehicles and even the location, dimensions and placement of doors also played a part. The side door of the Sprinter devoured a lot of real estate, as can be seen in this photo, yet it provided a nice scenic view in comfortable weather. Also note the height of the floor.

Here's the side door of the Chevy

An Apples and Oranges Comparison

This is not a comparison of equivalent vehicles in similar circumstances. Why do I say that?

• The use was different as the treks were different (1200 miles versus 2500+ miles). 
• Weather conditions and altitudes were dissimilar, although the actual temperature range was equivalent. Sun with the Sprinter versus rain, sleet, snow and ice with the Chevy. 
• Because of larger length and width, larger fresh water tanks, amenities and so on, the Chevy vehicle weight was greater. That should have influenced driving impressions as well as living space.
• The Sprinter did not have the range of features of the Chevy and so a comfort comparison is difficult.

To summarize major differences we encountered on our treks:

• The Sprinter provided something closer to a "camping" experience while the Chevy provided more of a "motor home" experience. This was the consequence of differences in the interior space and storage, but also the different coach energy sources and environmental treatments. 
• The Sprinter if "off the grid" was limited because of the lack of a generator and the reliance on electric as the single source of coach energy. The Chevy had a generator and propane and so it had significant off the grid flexibility.
• The core coach features of both vehicles were similar, but the Chevy had more features overall. 
• We used these vehicles in cold to warm temperatures, about 25F to 85F. However, the weather conditions were dissimilar. The Sprinter was used in dry weather. The Chevy was used in rain, sleet, snow and ice. 
• The Sprinter was driven on clean roads. The Chevy was also driven on wet, icy and snow covered roads.
• I have more photos of the Sprinter trek (Trek 1) than I do of the Chevy trek (Trek 2). We had more time to take photos with the Sprinter because we covered fewer miles during a trek of similar duration. The Sprinter trek was about 1200 miles. The Chevy was about 2500 miles. In addition, a lot of the weather encountered in the Chevy was rain, sleet and snow. As part of the trek we also took time to prep the Chevy for very cold weather, something we did not have to do with the Sprinter because conditions were different. This combination of circumstances afforded less time in the Chevy for interior photography and videotaping our experience. 

Here are a few observations:

1. Dimensions. The Sprinter was about 19 feet 5 inches in length, bumper to bumper with 144 inch wheelbase. The Chevy was over 21 feet long with 155 inch wheelbase. The Sprinter was 6 feet 8 inches wide excluding rear view mirrors. The Chevy was about 7 feet 4 inches at the widest point, excluding mirrors. The Chevy interior coach height was 6 feet 2 inches. The Sprinter was similar, but the rooftop AC projected into the coach space and lowered the height in that area. The outside height of the Sprinter was about 10 feet including AC. The Chevy was 8 feet 9 inches. The Chevy had a wider interior aisle, at 30 inches. 
2. Parking. The Sprinter was a bit narrower and two feet shorter in length. That gave it an edge when parking. 
   
3. Vehicle modifications. The Sprinter was a "high roof" cargo van with no exterior modifications, other than openings for AC, roof fan and plumbing for fresh water and gray and black tanks below the floor. The Chevy body was seriously modified with a steel-caged fiberglass body which flared out toward the rear, included outside storage, skylights, etc. 
   
   
   
   
4. Mileage. The Sprinter with a Bluetec (tm) diesel engine got about 19.5 MPG with mostly highway driving. The Chevy with an 87 octane gasoline engine got slightly less than 16 MPG. Based on the actual price of fuel, the Sprinter achieved a fuel cost per mile advantage of about 5% to 10%. Both vehicles were driven more than 1,000 miles for this comparison, mostly at speeds at or above 45 MPH. However, the inclement weather we experienced in the Chevy resulted in long periods on the highway at speeds below 40 MPH.
5. Coach energy sources. The Sprinter was all electric with solar panels. The Chevy was an electric/propane combination with an onboard gasoline generator. Both were equipped for 30 amp. 120 VAC "shore power" electrical connection.                                                            
6.                                                                                                                                      Coach interior temperature comfort. Based on our experience with an ambient temperature range of 20F to 85F the Chevy provided better comfort at the lower temperatures. The Sprinter included fresh air ventilation, the air conditioner and a portable plug-in ceramic electric heater. The Chevy had fresh air, a heat pump, an air conditioner and a propane heater. At the lowest temperatures we used the ceramic electric heater in the Sprinter and the propane heater in the Chevy. During the Chevy trek (Trek 2) we experienced minimum outside temperature of 20F. In Trek 1 with the Sprinter the minimum was 25F. The Sprinter did provide an acceptable experience at the low temperatures. However, we were more comfortable in the Chevy at the lowest temperatures encountered. The Chevy propane fueled furnace (heater) had an output of 16000 BTU. The electric heater of the Sprinter was 1500 watts which provided an output of about 5100 BTU. To use the Sprinter electric heater it was a requirement to be on "shore power." The Chevy because of the generator and propane heater did provide these comforts while disconnected from "shore power." Chevy Thermostat and Comfort Selector:                                                                                      
7. Coach comfort aided by insulation. The Sprinter apparently had minimal insulation. I say that based on temperature of the floor and interior cabinets early in the morning and in the vicinity of the rear doors. The Chevy supposedly was equipped with R4.5 insulation. Both had windows of single pane glass. The Sprinter had lightweight privacy shades in the coach area, and the rear doors became cold at night. The Chevy had heavy fabric shades and the propane heater in the Chevy was mid-coach and at floor level. Our lowest temperature experience was 20-25F outside and running on whatever coach heating was available for that temperature. Under those conditions at night the Chevy was the more comfortable with the propane heater. Note: We have added Reflectix to the windows of the Chevy after our winter and summer experiences. I also have a sun-shade or "sun sail" as well as the awning. Such passive interior temperature control measures have proven to be very beneficial. 
8. Coach power sources. The Sprinter had a solar system (12 VDC), batteries, inverter and shore power electrical system. The coach batteries could be recharged by running the vehicle engine or solar or shore power.  The Chevy had no solar system. It did include a gasoline generator, two marine batteries and an inverter. It also had a propane system for the stove top, refrigerator, hot water heater, space heater and an outside BBQ connection. The Chevy coach batteries could be recharged by vehicle engine, shore power or the generator. In both vehicles we used the inverter systems at night for light electronics and for our nighttime sleeping use. Both performed equally well with light loads. 
9. Electric Power issues. The Sprinter tripped the inverter, even on shore power. When that occurred, the electric stove top, hot water heater and AC were shut down (we only used the AC once, as a trial). We discussed this problem with the outfitter who provided immediate guidance. I also decided to switch off the hot water heater using the circuit breaker when we were using the range top. The heater was an invisible load and I could not determine when the thermostat was closed and water heating. That seemed to eliminate the problem. The Chevy did not have this problem; it had energy sources distributed between electric and propane.
10. Coach cooking. The Sprinter included a refrigerator and two burner electric range. The Chevy had a larger refrigerator and propane stovetop and included a microwave/convection oven. The propane heated whatever we were cooking faster than the electric range. Compared to the electric range, we preferred the microwave oven of the Chevy for quickly heating water for tea or coffee. Chevy Microwave/Convection oven:
    
11. Food preparation and housekeeping. The Sprinter cooking/sink area had minimal counter space and no rear backsplash and so we tended to have things slide off of the rear of the small flat area behind the stove top and the sink. To the rear of the Sprinter stove top was the sliding door and window. We used the top of the two burner electric rangetop for storage when not cooking. We set up a drying area on the bench to the rear of the cooking area. The cooking and food preparation experience in the Sprinter was a camping experience. We used a pop-up outside table when the side door was open. The Chevy had a wide counter surface with backsplash, two burner stovetop and a large flat expanse to the right of the sink. It also had a large slideout surface above the drawers in the food preparation/kitchen area. Adjacent to the Chevy stovetop was a stainless steel wall and a large window behind the sink/food preparation area. The chevy included a larger food preparation area and more storage in the immediate area of the food preparation area. We used that counter space as can be seen in the photo. Sprinter Cooking and Same Area in Chevy:            
    
    
12. Another view of the interior of the Chevy from the passenger seat. The LED lighting strip is a modification I made. 
    
13. Coach Dining. The Sprinter included a small table with upright support which could be installed in the rear seating area for dining. The front seats did not swivel. The Chevy also included a small table which could be installed in the rear seating area for dining. The Chevy had three front seats; the drivers and navigator's could swivel to face the rear. The Chevy included a large slide-out surface which could serve as a dining table for those seated in the front. In the Chevy we had the option of eating in the rear or in the front. Chevy Rear Dining Area:
    
14. Front Seating of Chevy with front table extended:
    
15. Refrigerator and microwave. The Sprinter included a 3 cu. ft. refrigerator. The Chevy included a 5 cu. ft. refrigerator. At times the locking clasp of the 3 cu. ft. was annoying, and one had to bend over or get on one knee to see everything in the smaller refrigerator. The larger refrigerator in the Chevy could be powered from DC, AC or propane. We usually selected "Auto" and ignored it. The Chevy had a combination Microwave Oven/Convection Oven at eye level. The Sprinter had none. Sprinter Refrigerator:              
    
16. Hot water. In the Sprinter with electric tank the hot water was lukewarm; turning the circuit breaker off while cooking may have contributed to this. It's unclear if that was necessary, but I wanted to avoid problems with the inverter and reducing coach electrical load seemed the best way to do that. In the Chevy the hot water was "hot." The Sprinter used an electric hot water heater. The Chevy used a propane hot water heater. Chevy Hot Water Heater - exterior with Anode Removed and Sprinter Hot Water Tank:
    
    
17. Sleeping accommodations and nighttime changeover. The Sprinter included two bench seats which could be converted to a queen sized bed by moving cushions. The space between the benches was narrow but adequate for daytime use. In practice seating in the rear was alternate sides to fit one's legs into the space; for two this was spacious. We tried sleeping in the Sprinter setup as single beds and as queen bed. The queen arrangement was preferred. The Chevy included a rear couch with U-shaped side benches. The rear, upright position of the couch was adjusted electrically. One side bench had a closet above and so it was not useable for seating, but there was sufficient room for sleeping. At night the changeover to a king size bed was achieved with a button as the bench was motorized, and re-arranging cushions. The reverse occurred in the morning. We really liked this as the changeover was much faster than in the Sprinter. We slept in the rear arranged as a king bed and my spouse once napped on the side bench. The Chevy included a cushion for converting front seating to an additional single bed. We did not use this.
18. Environment temperature control options. The Sprinter included a roof top ventilator, a rooftop Air Conditioner and a portable plug-in 120V ceramic heater. The location of the AC directed noise throughout the camper van. The Chevy had a rooftop fan with thermostatic control. The AC was in the rear but directed toward the front of the vehicle; it seemed to be less noisy. The frontward direction of the AC in the Chevy yielded a quieter sleeping experience with most of the air and noise directed forward and away from the sleeping area; it included two vents directed downward into the sleeping area. 
19. Heating system. The Sprinter included a plug-in portable ceramic heater with three temperature settings. The Chevy had a "heat pump" for temperatures as low as 40F and a propane heater for temperatures below that. Sprinter: Low-Medium-High settings. Chevy: specific digital temperature setting for any temperature source selected; propane heater, heat pump or AC. 
20. Coach entertainment system. The Chevy included a flat screen TV and DVD. The Sprinter had none. 
21. Awning. The Sprinter had none, the Chevy included a manual awning.
22. Driving seating - Both vehicles include "bucket" style seats. Both were comfortable. The Chevy added  powered lumbar supports, GPS and rear camera.  
23. Driving experience - general. The conditions were dissimilar, so making a comparison is difficult. We drove the Sprinter on excellent surfaces with no ice or snow on the pavement. We drove the Sprinter at altitudes of 2100 to 9100 feet and in traffic and on the highway. It performed very well. We drove the Chevy during rain, sleet, ice, snow and clear. We drove the Chevy at lower altitudes. It performed very well. We cannot state what the Sprinter driving experience would be in the inclement weather we experienced in the Chevy. The difference in length of the vehicles made no appreciable difference in maneuvering. However, the narrower Sprinter provided more space to the left and right and therefor was more forgiving if there was any tendency to wander in the lane. 
24. Driving experience - in traffic. We drove the Sprinter in Las Vegas traffic which was moderate. Highway traffic in the Sprinter was generally modest to non-existent. We drove the Chevy in extreme traffic conditions; for example, bumper to bumper in rain at speed in Atlanta at night and bumper to bumper in Nashville. Nashville morning traffic:                     
    
25. Driving experience - maneuverability. The Sprinter was agile but did have limited rear visibility. It did not include a rear view camera. The Chevy was agile, but the gas pedal seemed "heavier." The Sprinter had less vehicle weight and seemed to accelerate faster than the Chevy. I drove the Sprinter on perfect highways and achieved 80 MPH for short periods. I drove the Chevy on less than perfect highways at speeds up to 70 MPH. Most of the time, the driving speed in either vehicle on the interstate highways was 55-65 MPH. This was determined by conditions, traffic and speed limits. My spouse preferred to drive about 5 MPH below the speed limits, and felt comfortable in either vehicle doing so. In both vehicles the 55-65 MPH highway speeds provided a good balance of fuel economy, ease of handling, interior sound levels and reserve for acceleration. G at the Wheel of the Chevy:
    
    
    
26. Driving  - Rear camera. The Sprinter did not have a camera. The Chevy did include a rear view camera, but it was limited to use with the vehicle in reverse. There were times when it would have been nice to have a rearward viewing camera at speed in both vehicles. Because of rear window placement, I discovered that a tailgater in a very small vehicle could ride directly behind me and was not visible through the rear windows or the side mirrors! This observation is directly related to my experience while driving through Atlanta. 
27. GPS. The Sprinter did no include one, but it was available as an option with the rental. The Chevy included a TomTom, which I renamed "DumbDumb:"                                     
    
    
    
28. Dimensions - interior height. Both the Sprinter and Chevy permitted one to stand up (equivalent headroom). However, the roof mounted air conditioner of the Sprinter projected into the living space and made it very close for a 6 foot tall person. Moving from the coach area to the front seats in the Sprinter required some care to avoid hitting one's head on the storage area which projected entirely to the rear of these seats. The AC/heat pump was at the rear of the Chevy and provided a clear ceiling. Only the very rear above the sleeping area was lowered. There was no issue with clearance when moving into the front seats. 
29. Dimensions - width. The Chevy had been modified with a "flair out" of the body, and this provided about 6 inches more interior width, with an aisle of about 30 inches in width. The Chevy was about 7 feet 4 inches wide. The Sprinter was about 6 feet 6 inches wide. These dimensions exclude the outside rear-view mirrors. The difference in width was apparent toward the inside rear of the vehicle. 
30. Dimensions - length. The Sprinter was about 19 ft. 5 inches in length. The Chevy was over 21 ft. in length. For comparison, a Chevy Suburban is about 18-1/2 feet in length. The Sprinter fit readily into a standard parking space. The Chevy would fit in some situations, but not all. 
31. Bathroom. Both vehicles included a bathroom which could be used with the doors closed. The bathroom in the Sprinter was wider at eye level and one could shower standing with the doors closed. However, some of that space was achieved because there was no sink. There was some storage at eye level above the toilet. The Chevy also had a bath area in which one could shower, but it was smaller and some space was occupied by a sink and cabinet. In the Chevy, a stand-up shower experience would be had with the doors swung 90 degrees and a curtain drawn. We did not use either shower. In the Sprinter to wash one's hands after using the toilet required using the kitchen sink. The Chevy had a bathroom vent fan. The Sprinter did not. The Chevy included an aisle shower option with floor drain, the Sprinter did not. The Chevy included an outside shower facility, the Sprinter did not. 
32. Black and Grey Tanks. The Chevy had larger tanks. The Chevy included a built-in hose system with macerator pump. The tanks could be dumped by pulling out a drawer built into the side of the vehicle and then removing the hose from an integral bin. The dump valves were accessed while standing. In other words, there was no need to do more than bend over for this.  The Sprinter used two hoses; one for the blackwater tank and a smaller for the grey tank, but I found the greywater hose would airlock, so I held the blackwater hose under the fitting and grey dump valve; it had a different fitting. The dump valves were under the vehicle. The blackwater hose was stored in a PVC pipe which required one to get on their side on the ground in order to access. The grey hose was stored inside the vehicle when not in use. We did not have to dump the tanks every day with either vehicle. The Sprinter had no tank gages, but the fresh water tank was readily viewed by lifting a cushion. The Chevy included tank gages for the freshwater, grey and black tanks as well as the propane. These gages were simplistic (empty - 1/3, 2/3 or full). 
33. Ventilation. The Sprinter included a variable speed roof fan in the coach area. The Chevy had a thermostatically controlled variable speed fan and a second fan in the bathroom. The Chevy included a screened side window. None of the Sprinter windows included screens. 
34. Spare Tire. The spare for the Sprinter was under the vehicle. The spare for the Chevy could be inside and under the couch/bed, or could be at the rear of the vehicle in a "continental" tire kit. The Chevy included a continental carrier so location was tbe decision of the user. 
35. Side entry door. The Sprinter incorporated a very large sliding side door and the step up is about 22 inches an intermediate step. This door is heavy and requires a substantial "pull" to get it to glide. When open, this door also has the potential to admit a lot of rain or other "inclement" weather. The Chevrolet had a smaller, lighter swing-out door and a built-in step. The Chevy included an insect screen in the window and a separate full-area zip-in screen. We didn't need the zip-in screen in December. We used the Sprinter in cold, dry weather and warm, dry weather. We did have to shoo some bugs. We used the Chevy in rain, sleet, snow and ice. We preferred the smaller swinging side door of the Chevy and the easier step-up with a seat on the left, rather than the kitchen cabinet which can be seen in the photo. We used the side door under all weather conditions encountered in the Chevy, and the interior remained dry but for the snow on our shoes. Sprinter side entry door:                      
    
36. Rear doors. The Sprinter had nifty doors that could open 180 degrees if there was sufficient space to swing them. The Chevy had doors that would open 90 degrees. There was no rear bug screen provided with the Sprinter; the Chevy included a bug screen. 
37. Storage. The Sprinter storage was comprised of the interior cabinets and beneath the bench seats/beds along the sides. Some cabinet space was occupied by the hot water heater and some bench space was occupied by the rear wheel wells, inverter, coach batteries and fresh water tank. The Sprinter had a space over the driving seating area with a flip-up door. However, several times we each bumped our heads on this. The Chevy had about 2-1/2 feet of additional length. This resulted in more interior storage area including a closet, which the Sprinter did not have; We discussed using the Sprinter bath area to hang coats. The Chevy also had outside storage including a large outside tray and a second space behind a flip door.  The Chevy included a covered deep well space under the floor in the rear. The coach batteries in the Chevy were in an exterior compartment and one of two fresh water tanks was also exterior to the coach. In the Sprinter, we used a cooler for dry goods storage and moved it when we were seated in the rear area. At night it fit under the relocated cushions that made the bed. In the Chevy, we brought a small cooler but never used it, in part because of the much larger refrigerator and additional storage. We filled every nook and cranny in the Sprinter. In the Chevy we had unused interior and exterior space. In the Sprinter we found ourselves hunting for a place for hiking boots and moving things in order to use a specific area. This did not occur in the Chevy.
38. Exterior slide tray storage - Chevy. The Chevy based unit included a large, covered slide tray storage compartment of about 150 pound capacity. Really handy for grill, chairs, etc. This photo shows a portion as I was preparing to clean and lubricate the slides. Note the dump valves and the macerator dump hose. A portion of the exterior fresh water tank is also visible:
    
39. Front seating. The Sprinter included stationary "captains chairs" while the Chevy had rotatable chairs. The Sprinter made moving from the coach area to the front seating area a head banger. The design of the Chevy eliminated this problem. The front seats of the Chevy included adjustable lumbar support. 
40. Driving and navigating seating positions. The front seats in the Sprinter were very comfortable for driving, and there was a lot of storage for maps, drinks, etc. The Chevy seats were also very comfortable, added powered lumbar support but less front storage than the Sprinter. The Sprinter front seats were stationary; the front seats of the Chevy swiveled to the rear. 
41. 19 feet versus 21 feet in length. There were significant interior space differences. The Sprinter had a very limited cooking and food preparation area. We actually did some prep outside on a flip-up table that was accessible when the side door was open. We found ourselves moving things around to make room for the task at hand. The Chevy simply had more interior space and that translated into a closet, a third seat in the front, a wider aisle, larger food prep area and a more spacious rear couch/sleeping area. For example, the Chevy included a king bed sleeping area while the Sprinter had a queen bed area.  These beds could be arranged as two singles.                                                        

Copyright (c) 2019 Norman Retzke "All Rights Reserved"

Additional Comments: 

1. Fuel cost for the treks. Cost of fuel was similar, on a cost per mile basis. It's unclear what the MPG figures would be for comparable treks. In the Sprinter we had mostly highway driving at 65 MPH under clear conditions, but elevation was more extreme with changes from 2100 to 9100 feet. In the Chevy we also had mostly highway driving, but with long periods below 45 MPH and inclement weather. Altitude was below 1500 feet. 
2. Cost of supplies. The cost per week including food supplies was about $100. Note that when renting there is a certain amount of waste. We purchased more paper products than we used, left behind surplus dishwashing liquid, hand soap and hand sanitizer, as well as some canned goods. Some things we left behind because of air travel restrictions. One only has so much space in the luggage. As a consequence our short term costs were higher than they should have been. 
3. I may post a more detailed cost analysis in the future.