Catalytic Converter RV Theft

 

Typical Van Catalytic Converter Assembly

It has been reported that thieves are now targeting RV storage facilities as a source of catalytic converters.  A number of nearby RV storage facilities were targets.  At  one town in Michigan theft of many catalytic converters has occurred in recent months. 

At one storage facility it was discovered that five vehicles were targeted.

I'm including info on catalytic converter and vehicle theft in this post.

Vehicle theft is also a problem

According to the recent FBI statistics, in 2020 810,400 vehicles were stolen. That's the highest annual number of vehicles stolen since 2008. Separate statistics on RVs are difficult to obtain, because they are lumped-in with vehicle thefts.  I include a link in the notes. 

Why steal a catalytic converter?

Here's one perspective: "The main reason that catalytic converters are stolen is because they’re valuable to scrap metal dealers. They contain precious metals, including rhodium, platinum, and palladium. These metals can be sold to scrap yards for $150 to $200 per piece, depending on the size of the converter and the current rate for the metals contained."

Can we prevent the theft of catalytic converters?

Probably not.  For one thing, they are a part of the RV or automobiles exhaust system, and it only takes seconds to put a scissors jack under the vehicle, lift it, and then cut out the converter.

I spoke with the Chief of Police of a nearby community about this problem.  He stated that thieves are now transporting stolen converters out of state, making recovery or capture of the thieves more difficult. There are thieves and then there are unscrupulous scrap dealers.  They are both a part of the problem. 

Nevertheless, here are some things that might make it less likely that your RV will be targeted:

• Install an alarm system that goes off when the vehicle is vibrated. However, it has been reported  that loud, audible alarms may be of little value.  A more sophisticated alarm system is required.
• Park the vehicle indoors and keep all doors closed and locked.
• Park in well-lit areas and close to building entrances, when possible.
• Weld the catalytic converter to the vehicle frame. This may make it more difficult to steal.
• Engrave your vehicle identification number (VIN) on the catalytic converter.  However, the police chief I spoke too did not offer any confidence that this is a deterrent, or may lead to an arrest.

RV Storage Facilities

One might think that a RV storage facility with night lights and cameras would be a deterrent, but that is not true.  It is my understanding that the RV storage facilities that were targeted were lit and there were cameras present. 

 

Alarm Systems

An alarm system might be helpful, but because noise by a loud alarm does not seem to be a deterrent to vehicle theft, the lowest cost alarms might be useless.

Some alarm systems are two-way alarms.  In such a system the alarm sends information to a remote location. This could inform the vehicle owner that someone is tampering with your vehicle or if the engine has been started. However, such remotes have limited range.

Some vehicle alarms can be linked to a smartphone. This will provide two-way communication over a great distance. However, if an owners gets an alert from a vehicle alarm system, the owner might not be able to respond, but could notify law enforcement that their is an attempt underway to steal the vehicle.

However, any effective alarm system should:

1. Disable vehicle start
2. Be triggered by vehicle  vibration. 

Other Theft Deterrent Systems

There are other systems that can deter thieves. I'm a believer that a really motivated, talented thief will steal an RV and overcome any deterrent system.  However, I am also of the opinion that a thief will go for the easiest mark.

Anti-Theft Devices reduce the possibility a vehicle will be stolen, or will assist in the recovery.  Examples include:

• Vehicle alarms.
• Vehicle start disablers or immobilizers.
• Motion detectors.
• Steering wheel locks.
• Recovery systems.

Recovery Systems

A recovery system does not prevent theft.  A vehicle recovery system is a tracking system designed to help vehicle owners get their RV, car or truck back after it has been stolen.

Active recovery systems include GPS-enabled vehicle recovery systems. These can help recover a vehicle during an active theft situation. They include a transmitter and work by remotely alerting the vehicle condition.  Some include ignition or start blocking. Examples include:

• GM's Onstar
• LoJack

Vehicle trackers use GPS but don't block operation.  Because some use the OBD port of the vehicle, simply unplugging the dongle may disable it.

Passive Recovery systems include etching the VIN on windows.

Links and Notes:

Insurance Information Institute:  https://www.iii.org/fact-statistic/facts-statistics-auto-theft

(c) N. Retzke 2021

Older Roadtrek may have fewer Technology Problems

 

Low Technology - no batteries  required

For those who own older Roadtreks my recent post about technology issues might seem bizarre.  Older Roadtreks use less proprietary technology and less high tech.

This year, automobile manufacture was halted by a "chip shortage".  Except for Tesla, and that's an interesting story about adaptability and hard work.

Microprocessors and related technologies are now an integral and necessary part of any vehicle. Electronics now dictates the performance and experience of owners of cars and vans.  It also has influences the performance and operability of RVs.

If you read the posts on various forums about Roadtreks, you might conclude that "less technology might be better technology".  I conclude there is a lot of frustration among recent owners, and that includes the other classes of RVs including A, C, travel trailers and 5th wheels.  I am separating the "build quality" complaints from other, technology related complaints.

There is a reason for the disappointment with technology and it is about what we call a curve of diminishing returns, as well as the transition in skill requirements. If we, as purchasers,  are on one side of the curve, where the benefits outweigh the problems, it is a wonderful experience. If we find ourselves on the other side of that curve, where problems exceed benefits, it is not so much fun.

We expect performance, serviceability, and low operating costs. But RV mechanics are the ones who deliver after purchase, and they may be hamstrung by sophisticated technology built into rigs, and for which they have not been trained, or have little control.  Only a few years ago, RVs were about engines, transmissions, and electro-mechanical devices. 

In high production vehicles with millions of units (cars, trucks or vans) with extensive dealer networks, maintenance might be readily available. However, low volume, proprietary manufacturers are in another place. There is the pull of marketing hype and the demands and sometimes unrealistic expectations of purchasers.  In RVs I have concluded that if the manufacturers claims are too good to be true, they probably are. 

 When one manufacturer promotes the hype, that puts pressure upon the marketing departments of other manufacturers.  As a possible purchaser in such situations I ask myself "Is this a race to the top, or to the bottom, or total hyperbole?" 

Some RV buyers may approach their purchase as it is a high volume automobile.  That's a big mistake.

Manufacturers may be inclined to push the envelope and in so doing, they may cross over the curve. If we, as purchasers are then on the other side because of the manufacturer's decisions, it may seem that there are constant breakdowns or unfulfilled expectations. Furthermore, there are diminishing returns to contend with.  Lower benefits = more problems and higher maintenance costs.

In the last decade, technology and in particular electronics has become predominant. One reason is because the cost of some electronics is now so low that manufacturers may go overboard when integrating it.  For example, there is something called the IOT, which is the "Internet of things".  This was facilitated by the invention of a website on a chip, and microprocessors for $1 as well as really inexpensive memory. In my experience of industrial automation, we purchased sensors such as temperature or pressure. They included a built in "web server". I could connect to a system with thousands of devices via the in plant (facility) network  and I could interrogate each one.   That began two decades ago. 

Today local (nearby) communication is facilitated via other standards including bluetooth.  For example, at our summer lily pad I monitor the amount of propane in the tank for our grill using a simple and inexpensive load cell device which is blue tooth enabled. I get a readout of the amount of propane in the tank on my Android cellphone. Alternately, I could use my old UPS spring-loaded scale, which is accurate to about 1/2 pound and a maximum of 75 lbs. No batteries to replace.

Modern automobiles and Roadtreks incorporate intelligent systems to monitor the entire chassis and that includes the radio. RV manufacturers can exploit this technology and use it to reduce wiring costs.  

For example, in my 2013 210P the radio is powered up by an intelligent module called a "Scosche" module. When that module (which is a "bus controller" and is actually a micro controller about 1 inch x 3 inches x 1 inch) is sent a signal by the chassis computer that the engine is running, that module energizes a power relay which in turn provides 12VDC to the Fujitsu and TomTom GPS provided by Roadtrek. 

That intelligent bus controller failed.  When it did, the radio could not power up on engine start.  It took a bit of research to determine what had failed. I got a replacement "Scosche" module, but installation required tearing the dashboard apart.  So I put in an Off-On Toggle Switch.   

Scosche module

My point is, this technology has permeated our lives. We don't even realize the extent. The problem is the application in everything from Roadtreks to intelligent home thermostats.  In a RV, this "intelligent" and "communicative" technology must be maintainable.  It often isn't.  For example, try to get your LED TV repaired.  It was designed to be scrapped when it failed.  Now translate that to the intelligent battery systems and chassis of a Roadtrek. Yes, those LiFEPO4 batteries have a BMS which is shorthand for "Battery Management System".  That system does calculations and controls the charge and discharge of the battery.  In complex systems batteries are interconnected and must communicate and share information. Even more complex RV systems integrate lead acid AGM batteries and Lithium Ion batteries. Wow!

A comment over at the FMCA Roadtrek group on my comment about our Roadtrek and which I also posted at this group:

"Norm:

Awesome monolog on the '13 210pC!

We bought with the same reasoning.

I am going to frame it and hang it over the entrance!"

(c) 2021 N. Retzke

𝗪𝗼𝗿𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗟𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝗮𝗻 𝗥𝗩 𝗖𝗮𝗺𝗽𝗲𝗿

 

Wall Street Journal Article - September 19, 2021

If you have a WSJ online account, or know someone who does, this article series may be of interest. Here's a brief excerpt and I've included a link in this post.

The Wall Street Journal echoes what I've been telling people for years. First, not everyone is cut out for this, and some vandwellers may do this because they see no alternative.

For those who decide to "dive in" I also suggest that one consider longevity of the engine, transmission and other chassis and coach components before purchasing a used vehicle.  Yes, there are Class B RV's, specifically Roadtreks on Dodge and Chevy chassis that are 30 years old, are running and some are for sale. But one has to be realistic when purchasing such a vehicle. Yes, the sale price may only be $16,000 but one should expect some maintenance issues.  Even 21 year old Roadtreks are being sold for $30,000. My 2013 210P could probably be sold for about $68,000, which is the current going price at:

https://www.roadtrekchapter.org/roadtreks-for-sale/

Roadtrek 190, 2000 model year, 138,000 miles, sale price $30,000

I advocate renting before buying, but I also advocate that one have a real purpose and plan before purchasing. G and I made the decision jointly and it would not have happened if she was not sufficiently on board.  We did have concerns. But we also realized that expression: "Life Begins at the End of Our Comfort Zone".  In fact, when we purchased our Roadtrek 210P G took a photo of me accepting the keys and she remarked "This will transform our lives".  And it has, in many good ways. 

I was a ground camper with experience backpacking, wilderness canoeing and tent camping from -25F to +100F, so Roadtreking was a real comfort improvement.  My work experience included outdoor environments of -65F wind chills and the Arabian desert, the swamps of Louisiana, the Florida Everglades and even hurricane Hugo and the events leading up to and the aftermath of Katrina; I left NOLA on the last flight out prior to hurricane landfall. Then, I returned to rebuild industry back to normal. Yep, RVing would definitely be a glamping experience.  I'm going to digress for a few paragraphs and then return to the theme of this post.  The reader can skip ahead to the main theme of this post.

Some reminiscences of hurricane Katrina.

Working long into the night to design and prove the systems to return an industrial  facility to operation, after Katrina. That facility provided the materials to build the levies for protection of New Orleans from future hurricanes

In the photo above, I was working in a trailer at night in which the mice danced around my feet.  I had designed and built the control technology to resurrect a critical component for the facility. I transported this to NOLA after assembly in Illinois.  I was making final tests to prove the resilience and ability to achieve the requirements.

I had one of few motel rooms available because before I left NOLA which is prior to Katrina landfall, I had made a reservation for 30 days. When I arrived at the motel, people were sleeping in sleeping bags on the floor of the lobby, which was completely filled with occupied sleeping bags. Some businesses had arranged for rooms and were working people 24/7. The workers got up in the morning and were replaced by the workers who had worked all night and then occupied the same beds. There were few places to get food. I had driven my own food stash for myself and for others, all the way from Illinois.

One night I went into a Subway in Slidell LA for a dinner sandwich; that was about 8:00pm. I made it a point to get there before closing, because it was the only food establishment open; the Sonic ran out of buns or hot dogs or whatever on alternating nights. I could return to the facility after "dining" and I did. I worked long into each night. 

At the Subway the exhausted young woman who made my sandwich was sobbing. I comforted her and she told me that she had been working, alone and continuously since 7:00AM that day and was at the end of her resilience and capacity. I thanked her for her willingness to be of service to others, such as myself. I thanked her for her commitment, and the sandwich she prepared for me. I told her emphatically that if she wasn't there I would not have had anything to eat that night. I acknowledged that I was aware how difficult this was for her, and I told her that if she couldn't do this it was okay with me. Yes, I was grateful for her service, but we each must care for ourselves. She calmed down, and I took my sandwich.  She is one of many inspirations in my life. God bless her.

This is one of many reasons I have little capacity for shirkers.  There are some really good Americans and then there are assholes. 

Electricians resorting to "low tech" fans to dry the Process Control remote I/O after cleaning out the cabinets after Katrina. One of many such electronic cabinets.

Hazmat garbed worker, cleaning out the office after Katrina

Returning to the theme of this post and the WSJ article

I did spent a lot of time, years actually, researching this RV lifestyle. I researched, discussed thoroughly with G and provided her with online resources. Using our conclusions we rented a Class B and learned from that experience; I had never before had any kind of RVing experience, other than walking around a few shows. 

Morning Coffee in Arches National Park from our Rental RV

When we purchased the Roadtrek 210P in December 2013 I took a year to climb under it, took some of it apart, and studied all the manuals including the various bits and pieces, while we trekked when time was available.  We've transitioned to full timers but still maintain a "sticks and bricks" abode I call my "furniture storage unit". It has taken time to transition to full time RVing and downsize and throw out, donate and give away a lot of stuff. 

A sampling of the manuals provided with our Roadtrek. I downloaded even more. 

I took on the Roadtrek as a long term project. It was about management by objective, an arcane philosophy. 

After purchase of the Roadtrek we took an inventory of all of the stuff in the coach. We logged manufacturer, model and serial numbers. I then downloaded dozens of specific maintenance manuals for everything I could find, from the furnace to the Tripplite inverter-charger to the 3-way refrigerator and Onan generator and all of the electrical components, etc. I read and studied them all and compared to what was actually in the Roadtrek. It was an education and it still is. I evaluated the purpose of each and every component and how they each contributed to our trekking experience. I identified possible improvements and the weak links in the chain. I then implemented improvements to strengthen the whole so as to make our trekking a better experience. Of course cost of improvements was a consideration. My thorough, methodical and cost-conscious approach has resulted in a better RV and better trekking experiences. I put what I can in this blog. 

RVing is for us a life of continuous education and discovery.  For me, I approached home ownership the same way, and maintained and improved the house and condo I owned using "sweat equity".  I've remodeled entire bathrooms and kitchens, for example. Added a Japanese Garden, expanded a garage to add a work room-potting shed, etc., etc., etc. All of this provided me with more and more skills layered on top of my work experience which included finance, business, electrical, mechanical, very high tech and so on.

I began this blog to share what I have learned, etc. For our Roadtrek I purchased spare parts and made a number of improvements slowly and incrementally, in part based up our trek when we rented a Sprinter based Class B, things about the Roadtrek which we identified before purchase decision, and then using our travel and living experiences. We have lived in it for up to 110 continuous days, and we have no illusions about the limitations or the benefits of the ownership and lifestyle. We also understand the financial costs of ownership and maintenance. I keep a maintenance log and I am of the opinion that these costs have been acceptable. There is a cost-benefit analysis to make and to consider. 

It is to be expected that the more we drive, the higher the operating and maintenance costs. We balance the cost of driving with the cost of camping.  For example, at 15MPG, a 300 mile driving day consumes 20 gallons of gas.  At $3 per gallon, that's $60 per day, plus the wear and tear on engine, transmission and consumables such as tires, oil, brakes, shocks and so on.  If stationary we live in a camper which was not designed for full time living, yet we have camped with nighttime lows of about 5F and daytime highs of about 103F (in the shade) and we have done so for up to 110 continuous days.  I continued to work remotely from the Roadtrek while we did this.  

In view of our expectations for our treks, we decided that it makes more sense to us to travel a reasonable distance and then camp for a while. But that's merely our perspective, and I suggest that one of the ways to create a positive experience is to have have reasonable and realistic expectations and then a payback for each trek, be it a unique location, something of historical significance, or a fun restaurant or even a resort campground. We design a purpose and outcomes and then strive to achieve them. 

Another component is to learn from our experiences. Our Roadtrek is not an automobile, although it is extremely comfortable.  Bouncing down the highway does stress the coach components.  So it is to be expected that things will break.  We save and prepare for future maintenance and we do know the proper maintenance intervals.  The Roadtrek is built on a well-known Chevrolet 3500 chassis. There is a wealth of information available for that vehicle. With all of the internet resources available, the FMCA Roadtrek Chapter and various forums, there also a wealth of information available for the modified coach. Caveat: there is also a lot of baloney and some mis-information, too.   Critical thinking skills are a real plus for the RV owner. 

"𝗪𝗼𝗿𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗟𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝗮𝗻 𝗥𝗩 𝗖𝗮𝗺𝗽𝗲𝗿: 𝗪𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗦𝘁𝗮𝗿𝘁 - 𝗟𝗶𝗳𝗲 𝗼𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗿𝗼𝗮𝗱 𝗰𝗮𝗻 𝗯𝗲 𝘃𝗲𝗿𝘆 𝗿𝗲𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴. 𝗕𝘂𝘁 𝗶𝘁 𝗽𝗮𝘆𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝗸𝗻𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗱𝗶𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗰𝘂𝗹𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗰𝗮𝗻 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗲𝗰𝘁." - WSJ Sept. 19, 2021

"...Yes, we have talked with retirees who have taken this route, most of whom find life, and work, on the road immensely rewarding. But they also caution that rookies need to navigate, simultaneously, two steep learning curves: how to live successfully in an RV, and how to think and operate (as one expert told us) like a “nomadic entrepreneur.”

To start, we’ll assume that you and your wife—as almost every expert recommends—already have rented an RV for one or two weeks (or, better, one or two months) to gauge whether living in a vehicle does, in fact, agree with you.

“It sounds romantic,” says Joel Cawley, a 61-year-old retired IBM executive who began RVing in 2020 and now writes books from his Winnebago. “But you don’t think about all the practicalities involved.” 

Mr. Cawley offers a partial list:

Learning how to maneuver the vehicle. (“Gas stations are tricky,” he says.)

Mastering (and, ideally, being able to repair, as needed) an RV’s various electrical and mechanical systems, particularly Internet access.

Finding the balance between travel and stationary days.

Deciding what you’re going to use to explore and run errands while your RV is parked. (This will help you decide what type of RV to buy in the first place.)

For beginners, Mr. Cawley says, “there’s plenty to stress about.”..........."

Here's a link to the article, which contains links to other resources:

https://www.wsj.com/articles/working-living-in-rv-camper-what-to-know-11631735215?

WSJ.com content copyrighted by the Wall Street Journal 2020

Roadtrek210.blogspot.com (c) 2021

Remote Vehicle Diagnostics - Battery Monitor

 

Remote Diagnostic - Battery - Sept 2021

Monitoring a vehicle which is parked off the grid

When I purchased the Roadtrek 210P I stored it at a commercial lot a few miles away.  This was necessary because it could not fit in my garage and the Homeowner's Association I lived in had a rule which prohibits RVs on the property.

I investigated several options and decided to purchase a HUM which is owned by Verizon. This included a OBD transmitter to monitor the vehicle and a "black box" which transmits the information to me via the cellular telephone network. It does include vehicle location monitoring, too

To replace power drained by the onboard vehicle computer I was using a small solar panel placed on the dashboard. This proved to be inadequate with HUM upgrades which increased monitoring frequency transmissions.  So I upgraded to a 30W solar panel with built-in controller. The new panel was able to keep the battery level up and I seldom got a "battery voltage" alert.

However, with the vehicle battery approaching 9 years of age, the battery would not hold a charge.  This resulted in a 12V battery voltage while the solar panel was in the sun.  At night the vehicle battery voltage began dropping off. A couple of weeks ago the battery died and the low voltage declined to about 10.5 Volts. Oh, Oh! That's a dead battery.  I received several days of alerts and I replaced the battery.  I received the alerts because in sun, the solar provided sufficient power to get the battery to about 12.3 VDC, but that is too low a voltage to properly recharge the battery.

There was no indication of an unusual load, but I disabled (turned off) the Battery Separator to be certain it wasn't cycling or powering up. My Roadtrek has two solar panel systems; one for the vehicle battery and another for the coach batteries.  So there is no need to connect the two when the vehicle is stored and stationary.

As can be seen in the photo above, the battery voltage is reported as "stable" and during full sun the battery voltage while charging reaches about 13.5VDC.  On cloudy days the voltage decreases to about 13.2 VDC.  The vehicle was in use until September 14.  It has been stationary and off the grid since September 15.  The chart above shows the battery voltage during solar charge and also during nighttime. The vehicle is pointed easterly and the solar panel gets direct sun in late morning to early afternoon, if it is a cloudless day.  The 12.82 VDC reading above was taken as the sun was rising but obscured by a building to the east. Some solar energy was available, but not full sun.

Overnight the vehicle battery voltage, with no solar available is about 12.75VDC, just before dawn (typical reading 7:00am). A fully charged 12V lead-acid vehicle battery is in the range of 12.5 to 12.7 VDC.

(c) 2021 Roadtrek210.blogspot.com

Practical Solar

 

Making coffee in the morning in the "Solar powered" Class B
Must turn off the hot water heater before using the burner!
Outside ambient: 20F,  Inside: chilly!

Realistic expectations  

We trek and we have spent up to 100+ continuous days in our Roadtrek.  But first, we rented a "100% electric" solar powered Sprinter coach and took it to the National Parks in Utah.  It was mid-October 2013. Nighttime temperatures were about 20F.  It was a good test of how well a solar powered, electric coach would perform.  That was our purpose in choosing it, and I wanted to see how the BlueTec engine performed, etc. 

From a comfort perspective, it was not ideal, and G had to ask "How is it that one would spend $100K to buy this?" Adequate if the ambient temperature was in the range 50F to 80F and if one wasn't parked in the full sun during the daylight hours.  Otherwise uncomfortable. The Sprinter had sufficient batteries and solar, and a large inverter, but it did have power limitations. For example, we couldn't use the electric cooktop and simultaneously make hot water for bathing or cleaning. For comfort heat it had a 1500 W electric heater, which was not adequate at below freezing, nighttime temperatures. There was no propane. It was a Mercedes camping experience as we slept in sleeping bags.

However, that experience allowed us to make a more realistic list of "must haves" and after reviewing these and discussing the Sprinter and our experience, we purchased a Roadtrek 210P which uses multiple fuels for coach amenities.  After the Roadtrek financial bankruptcy, the 210P is no longer made, which is a shame. 

I'm not going to repeat my earlier posts, in particular the one about our experience and decision to purchase the 210P. I do have earlier posts on solar, batteries, etc. 

Solar Power and Batteries

We purchased a new Roadtrek a bit sooner than would have been ideal at the time. We were both working and had very limited time for trekking. On the other hand, the price in December 2013 was really good, with a steep discount.  So, we purchased it. Because we live in a HOA and our garage cannot accommodate the Roadtrek we had to store it, and the largest issue was keeping the chassis and coach batteries fully charged. I did run the generator monthly.  The 210P did not have solar.

To keep the chassis battery fully charged, I purchased a 50W solar panel and controller. That's documented in a earlier post. I selected a de-sulfating controller. That was in Spring of 2014. 

I mounted the solar controller adjacent to the coach batteries, and I decided I wanted a "portable" panel, because when it is hot it is preferable to park in the shade. My approach allowed us to charge the batteries during the day while we were comfy. The cable connecting the solar panel to the controller is about 20 ft long and is coiled and placed under the passenger seat when we are in movement.

The Coach Solar

The 24"  x 24" 50 watt panel is stored behind the drivers seat when we are travelling. Why only 50 watts?

I had evaluated our DC electrical power needs. Our Roadtrek 210P has a 2.8kW Onan gasoline generator. It also had multiple energy sources. For example, propane is the source for the furnace, hot water and a range top, as well as the third source for the 3-way refrigerator. All of the controls are 12VDC.

We have no interest in living "off the grid" for weeks while running the refrigerator and Air Conditioning or space heat using 3000 watts of batteries and solar panels. In fact, our 210P simply doesn't have enough roof space for all of those solar panels. 200W would be pushing the maximum roof space available. Our interest is charging the coach and chassis batteries, reducing but not replacing the amount of grid electricity we need and so on.  This is because of practical considerations. Those considerations include roof area available or size of portable panels, battery considerations and cost.

What can we get if we maximize the roof panel? For example, 100W solar panels can produce about 5.6A. Depending on the orientation of the panel, the intensity of sunlight and the hours of direct sunlight received in a day, a 100W panel can generate 20- to 30-amp hours (Ah) daily. In fact, the amount of energy may be only half of this because of clouds, panel orientation and hours of daylight. 200W could provide a maximum of about 60-amp hours each day. 

To charge the coach batteries using 120VAC and the Triplite charger-inverter requires anywhere from about 3.6A to 9.3A at 120VAC.  To fully charge 50% depleted batteries can take 12 hours.  At the lower charging rate using the Triplite 120VAC inverter-charger, 3.6A is a minimum used, or about 430 watts. I've measured the AC at the pole with everything off in the coach except charging via the Triplite.  At a typical seasonal campground where we pay $0.14 per kWh; that's $1.45 per day to keep the coach batteries fully charged. 

If the batteries are at 50% the AC required for charging can increase to 9.3A (1,116 Watts).   The 50 watt panel can't do that. It can provide about 4.2A at 12 VDC. 

The 50 watt solar panel is sufficient for my needs to keep the coach batteries fully charged under low load.   If we need more charging current I can run the Onan generator, or run the vehicle.  Running the vehicle will charge the chassis battery and, if the battery separator is closed the coach batteries will also charge. 

If we need more 120VAC than the 750 watt inverter and batteries can provide while off the grid, we run the Onan generator. The generator uses 0.3 gallons of gasoline at half load.  That's acceptable and in this manner we can recharge the coach batteries and run appliances. The Onan can provide sufficient AC for the heat pump/air conditioner. 

Why a Portable (detached) solar panel?

I preferred a portable solar panel because we can park the Roadtrek in the shade and put the solar in the sun, and I can orient the panel for maximum DC energy.  The de-sulfating solar controller I purchased is rated for 180W maximum panels.  I can always upgrade to more solar.  However, if I really want more solar, I'll probably mount a flexible panel on the roof and carry another 100W portable panel.  In that way I could get up to 200W if parked in the sun or, at a minimum 100W if parked in the shade with the portable panel in the sun.

I've written about batteries in earlier posts. I don't like the low temperature charging limitations of Lithium-Ion batteries.  Combined with the high cost, I don't see an overwhelming advantage for us. In my earlier posts I do go into greater detail about this.

50 Watt panel in full sun

Charging at MI campground

Coach battery voltage while charging in MI on 50W solar panel
Current (amperes) is not accurately displayed when charging;
the meter displays current draw (discharge) on the battery. 
While charging the current flow is in the other direction

50 Watt behind the windshield
The glass does reduce the efficiency, however, if facing the sun for half of the day the panel does keep the coach batteries fully charged. 

At the AZ "lily pad" the Roadtrek is under the roof.
  I place the portable solar panel on the roof.

The Roadtrek is in the shade, while the solar panel is directly above,
 on the the roof, in full sun.

Charging the Chassis Battery

The chassis battery also needs to be maintained.  My theft prevention device does increase the 12V DC power needs when the vehicle is stored. With the arrival of thin solar, or flexible solar panels I purchased a 30Watt for that purpose. The 30 watt panel can provide 2.5A at 12VDC.

The 30W panel can also be put inside, on the dashboard and facing outward.  This will charge the chassis battery when the vehicle is stationary and stored. 

Monitoring the batteries. 

I have two DC voltage indicators. One plugs into the accessory socket on the dashboard and it displays the chassis battery voltage. The other I added and is mounted inside. It provides coach battery voltage reading and current draw, when the battery is discharging. I added a power "Off-On" switch for the interior meter so as to conserve DC. I've included photos here. I have an earlier post on the coach battery monitor.

30 Watt solar panel

Chassis battery charging voltage on Solar, 13.1 VDC

(c) 2021 Roadtrek210.blogspot.com.

A few consecutive years of photos taken in July

 

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore - July 2012

I've taken a lot of photos while camping, trekking, etc.  

I've been sharing some photos with a couple of campground and social media groups.  I began posting a representative photo for each month of the year going back several years. Here's a series of representative photos for each July. I was working full time and part time and so was G, so for one year we had no trek photos.  Instead I included a project photo, taken in July 2010. Montana was also taken while on a project, but I had some time to hike and so I did.

Groton, CT - July 2006

Libby Flats, Wyoming - July 2007

Crater Lake - July 2008

Jay Pritzker Pavilion Chicago - July 2009

Silo Project - July 2010
No trekking that month, was here, instead!

Bayou Sauvage Ridge Trail,  near New Orleans - July 2011
Damage remains years after Katrina

Sturgeon Bay, WI - July 2012

On the Illinois Prairie Path - July 2013

Herrick Lake - July 2014

Sawyer, MI - July 2015

Warren Dunes, MI - July 2016

Lake Michigan Sunset - July 2017

Kayaking at Weko Beach - July 2018

At the summer Lily Pad, G writing poetry while I soak corn in preparation for grilling - July 2019

Weko Beach Taps Stone - July 2020
Taps is played by a live trumpeter every Saturday evening May to October

Climbing the Michigan Dunes - July 2021

My current digital cameras are  Lumix model DMC-ZS50, a GoPro and a Samsung smart phone.

(c) 2021 Roadtrek210.blogspot.com.

Cook Station - Work Table project

 

Deck and cook station at dusk

The summer of 2020 was unusual because of the CCP Covid-19 virus

I probably should have posted this in July 2020, but I had not yet decided to expand the blog with more coverage of our winter and summer "lily pads". In 2021 I decided to include all of our camping experiences, so, here it is, better late than never as the saying goes. 

In July 2020 we spent more time at our summer "lily pad" which is a travel trailer at a campground in Michigan.  We did not travel very much due to covid restrictions. I took the opportunity to build  a cook station - work table on the site. It was a CCP Covid-19 project. We have made a number of improvements at this annual site, including adding a deck and wooden stairs. Because we do a lot of outside grilling and other cooking I had wanted to do this. With things "slow" and Gov. Whitless of Michigan playing tyrant, it seemed like an opportunity.  The Home Depot was open for business as was the Ace Hardware.

I didn't tell G what I was up to.  I told her I was building a "Mystery Project".  I had a budget and so  I made it simple. I made some sketches and from that got the dimensions of the 2x4s and three - 4 ft x 4 ft. x 3/8 inch exterior plywood. I sized it for 24 inch deep shelving top and bottom.  I would cut several 4x4 ft pieces of 3/8 plywood; I wanted minimal waste. I also needed deck screws of two sizes, sanding sealer for the plywood, and a quart of royal blue Rust-oleum gloss enamel. I used left-over Cabot gray solid wood stain with which to paint the frame.

Tools:

• Circular saw
• 3/8 inch electric drill
• Screw drivers
• Tape measure
• Square
• Pen
• Paint brush
• Note: All screws were drilled with a pilot hole. 

2x4 frame - on end, during assembly

After assembling the frame I set it in place to check overall fit and height. I then cut the shelving.  The photo was taken before the final small pieces were cut to make top and bottom shelves continuous. The top will be screwed into place and top and bottom rest on front to back 2x4 supports positioned at the seams. The bottom shelf will be set in place and be  removeable for winter.  The bottom shelf is three pieces and will be placed on top of the upper shelf during winter, then the grill folded and placed on that as well as an extra water hose. The topmost shelf ad contents are protected with a tarp during winter.  We did this for the the winter of 2020-2021 and it was fine in the Spring.  

Rough setup

I removed the shelves, which were simply set in place to check the fit.  I then set the frame on edge and stained it.  After staining the 2x4 frame will be rotated into the normal position. 

At this point G didn't have any idea of what it was, because she hadn't seen it set properly in position. I placed it at a corner of the deck and out of the way. After a coat of Minwax water-based sanding sealer on the shelves and a light sanding to knock off the shine I painted them with Rust-Oleum Royal Blue gloss enamel. The sanding sealer seals the grain and reduces the absorption of paint into the wood.  As a consequence less paint is used and there is a better, glossier finish:

Painting the shelving with Royal Blue enamel

I used deck screws to hold the 2x4 frame together. I used a shorter deck screw to hold the top shelves in position. All holes were pre-drilled before installing screws. The shelves cover the entire top and bottom surfaces. The 2x4 top frame provides a left and right "edge". 

After painting both sides of the shelves and the edges and allowing to dry overnight, I fasted the top shelf in place:

Using flush screws to hold the top shelf in place

I placed the fully assembled unit in place.  G said the really likes the height of the top surface, which is convenient for cooking.  It is of sufficient dimensions to facilitate serving and is near the 120VAC outlet on the side of the rig, which is necessary for the induction electric cooktop/ cast iron cooking. We purchased the propane BBQ in the photo from a camper who was selling their rig. It replaced the one that came with the Heartland travel trailer:

Cook station in position

After a full season of use (August 2020-2021), G says she really like it. We use it with the cast iron and inductive heater, toaster and so on.  I had considered a small cabinet on the lower shelf, but decided to build a separate cabinet and hang it from the side of the travel trailer, using the 3/8 inch tube shelf that held the Celano BBQ.

I also use it as a "work table" and it has been helpful.  

Original Material: Roadtrek210.Blogspot.com (c) 2021