New Voltmeter-Ammeter-Wattmeter for AGM batteries - Part 1

Earlier this year I replaced the AGM batteries in the Roadtrek with new AGMs. I decided against lithium (LiFePO4) batteries for the time being. For one thing, I hadn't decided which real estate I would give up. I wasn't sure I'd put them in the battery compartment as it is outside the rig and uninsulated.

I've posted on social media (G+ and FB) that I wasn't happy with the 4-point L-F-G-C "idiot light" arrangement in the Roadtrek, in particular because I discovered that the "G" or "Good" indicator was illuminated even when the batteries were below 50% depth of discharge (DoD).

What was my issue? It was about battery life and capacity. To get optimal life from AGM batteries most experts recommend not allowing the battery to regularly fall below 50% state of charge (SoC). The "G" or "Good" LED extinguishes below that level. The "F" or "Fair" light on the Roadtrek is below that. A simple plug-in digital meter was an option and one can be purchased for between $5 and $15. Here's one:

12V Plug-in digital Voltmeter

Our rental rig had such a simple meter, and I could plug one into the rear cabinet above the entertainment center in our 210P, which had a cigarette lighter for the 12V amplified antenna. I added a "Y" connector for this purpose. However, I also wanted an ammeter and a wattmeter, but I didn't want to spend the amount necessary for a Trimetric and I wanted something easy to install.

Here's the 12V connector I used to install a "Y" cable. That allowed me to connect a meter in addition to the 12V TV antenna amplifier. But viewing the meter in this location isn't very convenient.

Location of simple plug-in digital meter connector:

12V Connector in rear compartment

Installed and functional digital meter:

New Digital Meter

Battery Life Issues
All of this is really about getting full value and maximum capacity from the batteries. As AGM batteries age, they will lose capacity. Such batteries have specifications based on specific conditions, such as an ideal temperature of 77F. AGM batteries operate on chemical principles, and chemistry is influenced by temperature.

I had noticed that, after 4 years the batteries in the Roadtrek didn't seem to be able of providing the desired voltage for the time I wanted to use them "off the power grid". That indicated a loss of capacity.

The entire point of adding a digital voltmeter-ammeter is to get a better idea of the condition of the coach batteries. Even better than battery voltage is specific gravity, but that can't be readily determined. Below is a table for my current batteries which provides some idea of the life of the batteries when discharged repeatedly to certain levels of DoD (depth of discharge). As can be seen, the 50% DoD provides about 1200 charge-discharge cycles. Decreasing to 80% DoD provides a life of about 700 cycles. Avoiding DoD below 50% provides a good compromise between battery life (cycles) while providing adequate capacity.

The problem we face is that to extend battery life we either use them less (fewer cycles per year means more years of service before reaching end of life). Or, we can reduce the DoD. As noted in the table below, if the DoD is only 20% it is possible for a battery to provide 3600 charge-discharge cycles. Of course, to achieve only 20% DoD requires much less use of the available battery capacity.

Why Measure Battery Volts and Amperes?
How long can we run things in the coach on batteries and avoid discharging the batteries below 50% DoD? The ammeter and voltmeter with the tables for our batteries can be an aid to this.

For example, my batteries can provide 18.33AH for 12 hours. However, that is to 100% discharge, which is what I want to avoid. 50% DoD will allow a draw for only about half that time, or about 18.33AH for 6 hours.  Or, I could reduce the load and extend the time. If I really need to run solely on batteries for 12 hours, my batteries can provide about 9 amperes per hour:

                                           220AH/12H = 18.33A
                                           18.33A x 50% = 9.165A

The times are approximate. If we have an ammeter we can determine what the actual current draw on the batteries are. If we have a voltmeter. we can determine the state of charge of the batteries.

Battery Life and Charge-Discharge Cycles

Depth of Discharge - New AGMs

Using the Voltmeter
The digital voltmeter will provide an indicator of the state of charge (SoC) of the batteries. "OCV" is open circuit voltage, or the state when the batteries are not connected to a load:

Relative State of Charge @ 77F - New AGMs

Note that SoC tables may vary. Here is a "typical" AGM table, which differs from the chart above.

Typical AGM battery SoC table

Battery Life 
Taking care of batteries and extending their life will obviously reduce costs. They are expensive. 220AH of AGM batteries is about $450 to $600. However, the other desireable thing is capacity. I want to be assured that the battery is capable of providing the amperes I need for as long as I need them. A battery with reduced capacity may not be able to do that.

Capacity is the ability of a battery to deliver the amount of power it was designed to do. Over time, battery capacity will decrease. As the battery nears end of life, it's capacity will diminish significantly. The batteries I have are designed to provide 25A @ 460 minutes  (7.7 hours) when new. As the batteries lose capacity, they will provide 25A but for shorter periods of time. And as the battery discharges, the voltage will decrease. A battery with diminished capacity will experience more rapid voltage fall-off. DC power is volts x amperes. As the voltage diminishes, so does the power if the amperes are constant.

While extending battery life does reduce operating costs, I am more interested in having the desired capacity available to me.  My batteries are rated 220AH. That means that they can continuously provide about 18 amperes for 12 hours, if they can provide full capacity (see notes):

220AH/12H = 18.33A.

Real World Capacity
The capacity achieved is based on battery condition, ambient temperature and other factors.

As noted above, the 12 hour rating for my AGM batteries is 18.33A.

In the real worlds AGM battery capacity does gradually decline, and by 700 cycles capacity decrease to 50-60% is usual. That means that the above number will gradually decrease:

• New AGM battery (80-100% capacity) = 18.33A for 12 hours
• Battery after 400 cycles (80% capacity) =  14.7A for 12 hours.
• Battery after 700 cycles 50-60% capacity = 9.2A for 12 hours

Lithium batteries also have a gradual reduction in capacity, but generally a 220AH battery:

• Lithium battery after 400-500 cycles (80% capacity) = 14.7A for 12 hours. 

Note: The above numbers are based on battery manufacturer published data and this information does vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. It is important to realize that battery data is usually under ideal conditions such as 77F temperature. AGM battery capacity decreases as battery temperature decreases and can perform (charge and discharge) over temperature ranges of (-)4F to 104F. Lithium batteries generally can operate with charging temperature of 32F-113F and discharge temperatures of (-)4F to 140F. Electric vehicle and experimental data indicates that high environment temperature could accelerate the aging of LiFePO4 batteries, while low temperature could reduce output power capability. Data suggests normal life can be achieve if operated in the range 50F to 104F.
However, it is important to check with each manufacturer for their specifications.

Battery Life based on Depth of Discharge
A well maintained AGM (absorbent glass mat) battery has a life of 6-8 years. Average life has been stated to be 3-5 years. If not maintained, that will diminish to 2-4 years. Note that it really is charge-discharge cycles that are the limit. Battery manufacturers assume a certain number of such cycles in a year. That assumes optimal temperatures of 77F and that the batteries are immediately charged to 100% immediately upon the end of the discharge cycle.

For example, with 50% DoD my batteries are designed to provide 1200 charge-discharge cycles:

1. If used every day, a battery will experience 365 cycles per year.  Under such use, the batteries have a service life of 3.2 years. 
2. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every other day, or about 180 times a year, the same batteries could provide a service life of 6.7 years. 
3. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every three days, or about 120 times a year, the same batteries could provide a service life of 10.0 years. 

 For example, with 80% DoD my batteries are designed to provide 700 charge-discharge cycles:

1. If used every day, a battery will experience 365 cycles per year.   Under such use, the batteries have a service life of 1.9 years.  
2. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every other day, or about 180 times a year, the same batteries could provide a service life of 3.9 years. 
3. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every three days, or about 120 times a year, the same batteries could provide a service life of 5.8 years. 

How does one "maintain" a maintenance free battery?

1. Recharge as soon as possible after use - preferably within 24 hours.
2. Recharge the battery properly.
3. Use a "smart" charger.
4. Battery should not be charged if the core temperature reaches 120F (49°C).
5. Avoid discharging below 50% SoC (state of charge).
6. When recharging, recharge to at least 80% SoC before beginning another discharge cycle. 
7. Charge to 100% as often as possible. 
8. Avoid heat; heat shortens battery life. Each 15°F (8C) rise in temperature reduces the life of the battery in half.
9. Know the correct state of charge (SoC). Knowing this will help to extend overall cycle life. A battery monitor is worthwhile and use one that is accurate.  

Battery Cost 
There is a cost to overtaxing batteries, as noted above. Best case is a battery with 50% DoD, and that yields 1200 cycles under best conditions. As noted above:

1. If used every day, or 365 cycles per year or a service life of 3.2 years.  The cost is $140 per year ($450/3.2)
2. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every other day, or about 180 times a year, the same batteries could provide a service life of 6.7 years. The cost is $67 per year ($450/6.7).
3. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every three days, or about 120 times a year, the same batteries  could provide a service life of 10.0 years. The cost is $45 per year ($450/10).

 For example, with 80% DoD, which provided more AH, but sacrifices battery life:

1. If used every day, a battery will have 365 cycles per year.  At 80% DoD, my batteries are designed to provide 700 cycles.  Under such use, the batteries have a service life of 1.9 years.  (Cost is $236 per year)
2. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every other day, or about 180 times a year, the same batteries with a life of 700 cycles could provide a service life of 3.9 years. (Cost is $115 per year).
3. If a charge-discharge cycle occurs every three days, or about 120 times a year, the same batteries with a life of 700 cycles could provide a service life of 5.8 years. (Cost is $78 per year).

Notes: 
Ampere-Hours. An amp hour (AH) rating is a rating usually used on deep cycle batteries. It is an ampere rating taken for 20 hours. For a 100 AH rated battery a load may draw 100AH from the battery for 20 hours.For such a battery, that's about 5 amperes an hour. 100AH/20H  = 5A).

1. The total time of discharge and load applied is not a linear relationship. As the battery load increases the actual capacity decreases. For example, a 100 AH battery with a 100 amp load should provide one hour of runtime. But it won't. The capacity of the battery will be severely reduced.
2. Each battery manufacturer provides AH data under various loads. For example, here is the table for my batteries, with a final voltage of 1.75V per cell (3 x 1.75 = 5.25V, or a dead battery):
1. 20 hours = 220 AH
2. 10 hours = 210 AH
3. 5 hours = 190 AH
4. 3 hours = 175AH
5. 2 hours = 155 AH
6. 1 hour = 130 AH

Using the AH from the battery table, a rough guide for capacity can be determined. For example, 10 hours = 210AH. To achieve a 50% DoD, 210 x 0.5 = 105AH realized capacity. To achieve a 80% DoD, 210 x 0.8 = 168 AH realized capacity.  However, these figures are approximate and are based upon a new battery and 77F. The approximate condition (state of charge, SoC) can be determined with a voltmeter.

Using the above, the 10 hour ability of the batteries is actually about:

10 hours, 50% DoD = 105AH/10H = 10.5A.
10 hours, 80% DoD = 168AH/10H = 16.8A.

Note that the above information is in accordance with the battery data provided by the manufacturer of my batteries. The actual data will vary by manufacturer.

August 10, 2017 added and expanded "real world" battery life data.

Current Project - Adding a DC Voltmeter-Wattmeter

Updated August 4
I completed the install yesterday. I did install a fuse at the coach batteries. I'll post a more complete blog in the future on the details of the install. The meter works well. I set the low voltage alarm at 12.1V (about 50% depth of discharge, or DoD). The meter is very accurate. I measured the voltage at the coach batteries and compared to the display. I also measured the mV at the shunt and compared to the ammeter display (has a 75mV shunt). After charging the coach batteries I killed the AC to the coach and with the meter powered, the fantastic fan at speed 1 and an overhead fluorescent on, this was the display. The battery voltage is high because it has some surface charge:

Voltmeter-ammeter-wattmeter with voltage alarm

Updated August 1

Meter in Case, with DC power "Off-On" switch

Making progress. The cabling is in, the shunt is mounted, and I've wired the meter case. I should complete in another hour or so. However, today (August 1) it was overcast and so I worked on the travel trailer; I'm using Meguiar's® Fiberglass Oxidation Remover on the cap. Got about 70% complete before the rain came in. I'll be working on that for another couple of days, weather permitting. Can't do this in the sunlight, or the rain. After completing with the Remover I'll be using No. 45 Polish followed by No. 56 Pure Wax.

Today I wired the meter case, and assembled jumper cabling to extend from the coach batteries to the cable run to the meter.



Original Post, July 28, 2017:
Current project is to put a decent DC electrical meter into the 210P, to monitor the coach batteries.

The 4-LEDS (L-F-G-C) or "Low-Fair-Good-Charging" indicate G "good" at 11.95V, which is not good IMHO. I really don't know the point at which the G indicator goes out, and the F "fair" indicator is illuminated. I don't think I want to find out.

Why my concern? The 11.95V which the LED "G" indicates "good" charge level, is actually a 40% charge level (60% DoD, or "Depth of Discharge") for the AGM coach batteries. Why do I consider that to be a problem? To get best life out of the AGMs it is my understanding that one should not repeatedly discharge below 50%, although these batteries can be discharged 80% (11.66V). The bad news? Doing so repeatedly will shorten the life. How much? As much as 50%, or a 5-8 year battery will make only 2.5-4 years.

So I'm interested in knowing the DoD and a good voltmeter will tell me that. My 210P has the AGM coach batteries, and I replaced the first set a few months ago; they were about 4-1/2 years old.

Is there an alternative approach? I considered just adding meter jacks, but G would have had some difficulty with that, so I'm putting in a digital ammeter-wattmeter. Probably the most difficult was determining how and where to mount it, because routing the cabling is a real pain. After figuring it out I purchased the parts. Should be up and running in a few day, assuming I find some time to complete.