Cast Iron Cooking

We cook a lot when trekking.  For one thing, G and I do really enjoy each others cooking. For another, it can be inexpensive. We also learn from each other because we have very different cooking approaches, skills, and recipes.

My suggestion? Invite someone over for dinner and relax and share the joy.

As we approach another major trek, I thought I'd put up some of the things we do using cast iron. With the approach of cooler weather, we'll be doing less grilling.

Cast iron cooking is a great alternative to grilling, and there are some things that one simply can't do easily on a grill. Other than boiling water or cooking very acidic things, just about anything can be grilled, cooked or baked in the appropriate cast iron pan or dutch oven. However, we aren't "purists" so we do also use a convection/microwave, an oven, etc. We also love All-Clad copper core stainless steel cookware, and we have several smaller skillets. These will not work on an inductive burner.

My point is, it is really all about achieving results and for that, I choose the best tools at the lowest possible cost.

Why cook with cast iron?
Cast iron cookery, such as skillets, dutch ovens and griddles can provide an even, consistent heat.  Cast iron will work with a propane range top, but is really in its element with an induction cooktop, which we do carry in our Roadtrek.

Because we prefer to conserve propane for the hot water and furnace in the Roadtrek, we turn to electrical sources of cooking energy. In addition, burning propane releases water into the interior of the RV. That's a natural consequence of the combustion process, and such water vapor is in addition to that released by boiling water. Additional water vapor is not a good thing in cold weather where it can and will condense on cold RV surfaces such as windows.

I do like cast iron because it can provide some really superior cooking results. It is easy to use once one figures out some of the eccentricities.  For the skeptical, I want to remind that cooking on an electric cook stove versus a gas rangetop does require some adjustment.  Cast iron is no different, and can be easily learned.

Our first cast iron experience
I was a youth leader and our Boy Scout Troop cooked frequently with cast iron skillets and dutch ovens; our scouts had a well earned reputation for providing fine dining in the woods. Our repertoire ranged from pizza to roasted turkey to blueberry cobbler to homemade ice cream.  But G was unfamiliar with that approach. She and I attended a cooking marathon in Chattanooga TN back in 2004. That was G's first introduction to cast iron cooking. We purchased a 12 inch Lodge skillet at that time and we have never looked back. That was a very happy decision.

Cast Iron is different
Cast iron does need some adjusting. It does need to be "seasoned". This is because the surface of cast iron is slightly porous.  Many cast iron cooking implements such as Lodge come pre-seasoned. After use, a periodic re-seasoning may be necessary. I season ours on a range-top, but one can also season in the oven.  Doing so is not a frequent event!

I have found that cast iron works best with higher initial temperatures, reduced once cooking commences. But that's my approach and experience.

Because cast iron provides good heat transfer and is thicker on the bottom, it doesn't react as fast on electric cook tops. That sometimes gets new users into difficulty. On the other hand, cast iron is perfect on an induction cooktop, and we carry one in our Roadtrek for that purpose.

When cooking with cast iron, one uses a variety of oils. Different oils have differing smoke temperatures. Knowing those can be an aid to temperature control. However, when most ingredients reach 212F they boil and one can figure out what is occurring.

My experience is that one might keep a skillet too low or underoiled when initial cooking begins. I use a non-contact thermometer to aid me, particularly if seasoning the skillet outside the oven. However, if one knows the "smoke temperature" of various oils, then such a device isn't necessary. Nevertheless, I do use one, and it is handy for looking into other temperature excursions into our RV.

Here's a link to various"smoke temperatures".  I generally cook with olive oil and butter. I frequently use olive oil with a little butter for flavor.

http://www.cookingforengineers.com/article/50/Smoke-Points-of-Various-Fats

How To Season Your Cast-Iron Skillet in an Oven:

1. Scrub skillet well in hot soapy water. Dry thoroughly. 
2. Spread a thin layer of melted shortening or vegetable oil over the skillet. 
3. Place it upside down on a middle oven rack at 375°. (Place foil on a lower rack to catch drips.) Bake 1 hour; let cool in the oven.

Using an inductive cooktop
I have a portable Duxtop, which currently can be purchased for about $49. I use it both indoors and outdoors. Of course, being an electric appliance it would be dangerous to use it if raining, in the wet, etc. Duh!

I generally cook at "power levels" of 2 or 3. These are published as "keep warm" or "low" with corresponding 500 to 800 watts. 

We cook everything from bacon to breakfast sausage to pancakes to sloppy joes to steaks. However, being a "grill meister" I prefer to grill steaks, burgers and so on on the BBQ.

What can one cook? Here's a representative sample.

Using simple technology
I do use a handheld non-contact thermometer to determine the temperature of the skillet. That's not a requirement for cooking. Consider it to be a consequence of my inadequacy. The thermometer in the photo cost me $25 at Harbor Freight, and I use it for other purposes.

This simple tool has made be a better cook! That, dear readers, had provided better results and a happy spouse.

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Winterizing - Water System

Morning in New Mexico - it was 50F about 12 hours earlier!

Added a few photos, etc. October 2019.

Roadtrek makes a variety of models on a variety of chassis. The following is from my experience as a 210P owner. However, portions may also apply to the 190 which is also on a Chevy Chassis.

Important Disclaimer: Refer to your Roadtrek manual. This information should be considered to supplemental. In the event of technical conflicts, it is your responsibility to make a decision and properly winterize your Roadtrek.

Here's what Roadtrek's website says about the 210P, from their website on October 17, 2018:

"Is the water system designed for winter use?
In 190 and 210 models, we’ve added a second fresh water tank inside [about 10 gallon capacity]. By using RV anti-freeze in the black and grey water tanks, the water system can be used in below freezing conditions to 10° F (-10° C). In the 170, SS, and RS models, the fresh water tank and lines and water heater should not be used in below freezing temperatures. However, you can still use the sink and toilet by carrying a fresh water supply inside the vehicle and using RV anti-freeze in the black and grey waste water tanks." See this Important Note:

Important Note:

1. Per Roadtrek manual for newer Roadtreks: "The 190 and 210 Popular models have the capability to operate in mildly sub-freezing conditions, provided the water system is properly configured." To configure the plumbing valves must be in the proper position. This is described in the 2015 210P manual with diagrams. Roadtrek also states "In winter mode, the line between the two tanks is closed, and the exterior tank is drained to prevent it from freezing. The outside shower water lines are closed and drained to prevent them from freezing, and the water pump draws water from the interior tank, which is protected from freezing by cabin heat. The hot water heater will also not freeze if left running. In this way, hot and cold running water continues to be supplied to the galley sink, toilet, and shower.
2. I have read in Roadtrek manuals that it is recommended that if you do decide to keep water in the interior tank of your Roadtrek and the outside temperature decreases below freezing, Roadtrek stipulated that you keep the interior temperature above 65F.

However, there is a difference between "Winterizing" and "Long Term Winter Storage". This post looks only into the aspects of winterizing the water components of a Chevy based Roadtrek.

What is "Winterizing"?
Because my Roadtrek has water systems that can freeze, certain steps MUST be taken to assure that when it is subjected to below freezing temperatures that pipes, the water heater, tanks and so on will not freeze and be damaged.

Why is this possible? When water freezes, it goes from a liquid to a solid. When water freezes, the water molecules freeze in a hexagonal pattern and the molecules are further apart than they were in liquid water. That re-arrangement causes the volume to increase about 9%.

It is this realignment and expansion that is the problem. It can burst pipes, damage components, valves and so on.

Winterizing addresses this problem by taking steps to avoid damage to the water filled components of your Roadtrek, including the fresh water system, hot water heater, and drain systems including the pipes, valves, water pump, toilet, p-traps, gray tank, black tank and macerator.

Other Resources
If you are a member of the FMCA Roadtrek International Chapter, you can also go to the excellent article by C. A. Campbell which is on their website, and which goes into all of the aspects of winterizing. The title of that article is: 

WINTERIZING YOUR ROADTREK MOTORHOME

You can also get additional information about this by reading the most current Roadtrek manuals. For example, I was able to download a 2016 Roadtrek 210 "How To" manual which has a section on "Summer and Winter mode" as well as "Water System Winterizing"

https://www.roadtrek.com/support-contact/#section-manuals


Approaches to Winterizing
There are two approaches.

1. Drain all water out of the system and use a special anti-freeze to replace the water and protect your Roadtrek.
2. Use air to blow out all of the lines, etc. However, that still requires anti-freeze in the drains (p-traps), toilet and gray and black water tanks, and the macerator. 

Roadtrek does not recommend using compressed air to blow out the fresh water lines. Why? Because of the possibility of damage.

Who is to do this:
There are three choices:

1. Do it yourself.
2. Have a qualified RVing friend assist you or do it for you.
3. Let a dealer do it. 

My approach:
I do it myself, with help from G. I purchase two gallons of "pink" anti-freeze suitable for potable use (about $8-10) and I add it to the two fresh water tanks in the Roadtrek 210P. I then pump it throughout the piping system. Some is also added to the P-traps in the bath and center aisle:

My procedure:

1. Completely drain the gray and black water tanks. 
2. Park level, or with the front of the 210P slightly down. 
3. Be certain the water pump is off. 
4. Be certain the [interior] valves to the exterior shower valves are open. (Photo 1). These are inside the water pump compartment, to the left of the refrigerator in a 210P.
5. Open the valve connecting the interior fresh water tank to the exterior one; this connects the two tanks, and allows any water in the interior tank and connecting piping to flow to the exterior tank, emptying them. (Photo 2). 
6. Open the Fresh Water System drain valve. This is adjacent to the exterior water tank. This is accessible with the drawer slide out. (Photo 3). Drain the system completely.
7. Open the valves at the exterior shower, the kitchen sink, and the bathroom sink. (I put the kitchen area sink faucet valve into the "center" position and "up" which opens both hot and cold. 
8. Remove the anode from a "cool" hot water heater. (step back, as the contents will flow out). (Photos 4, 5, 6  and 7).
9. Hold my foot on the toilet Foot Pump and allow that part of the system to drain.
10. After the entire system is drained of fresh water, close all of the valves at the various points: exterior shower, kitchen sink and bathroom sink. 
11. Change the valves for the hot water heater to "bypass" mode. (Photo 8)
12. Replace the anode in the hot water tank. 
13. Add about 1 gallon of ""Pink" antifreeze at the interior tank (#2) fill point (at the rear door). This will flow from the tank (#2), through the open valve and connecting piping to the exterior tank (tank #1). (Photo 9, 10 and 11). Replace the orange plug.
14. Add about 1 gallon of "Pink" antifreeze at the exterior tank (#1) fill point (fill point is inside the driver's door). When done replace the orange plug.
15. Save some anti-freeze for the P-traps in the floor of the bath area and the center aisle. 
16. Turn on the water pump. (Photo 12).
17. Open the cold water valve at the exterior shower until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
18. Open the hot water valve at the exterior shower until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
19. Open the cold water valve in the bath sink until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
20. Open the hot water valve in the bath sink until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
21. Open  the cold water valve in the kitchen sink until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close.
22. Open the hot water valve in the bath until pink anti-freeze comes out. Then close. 
23. Flush the toilet until pink anti-freeze comes out. Run it a bit longer to get more into the black tank. 
24. Add anti-freeze to the P-trap drains in the bath area and in the hallway. 
25. Run the macerator and dump the black tank until anti-freeze comes out. This assures that the macerator has anti-freeze in it. Do the same for the gray water tank, to assure that the gray tank line to the macerator also has anti-freeze in it.
26. Go to the city water fill point, remove the cap, remove the screen and press on the spring-loaded check valve stem until anti-freeze comes out.  Note: this is a step most don't bother to do. However, this step assures that the exterior water fill point also has antifreeze in it. 
27. Turn off the water pump.
28. "That's all, folks".

Photo 1 - Interior valves for the outside shower
Valves to be open for winterizing, as shown
(Handle in-line with the piping is an OPEN valve)

Photo 2 - Tank connecting valve in the CLOSED position.
Rotate this valve so the handle is in-line with the piping to OPEN.
Open Position connects the inside fresh water tank to the outside.

Photo 3. Fresh water system drain valve. 
Valve is shown in the OPEN position (handle is in-line with the piping)
In a 210P, this valve is accessible with the exterior drawer in the slide-out position.

Photo 4 - Anode looks like a pipe plug and is hidden by the heater tube in this photo.
 Remove the anode to drain the hot water heater

Photo 5- Close-up of Anode
A 1-1/16 in socket is required to remove (Channel-Lock pliers may work)
Don't forget to use teflon tape when re-installing

Photo 6 - A 1-1/16  inch socket is needed to remove the anode.
Use teflon tape when re-installing to make the connection leak proof

Photo 7 - Anodes are expendable and sacrificial. Top is a depleted anode
below it is a new anode.
 I use Suburban magnesium anodes on my suburban water heater

Photo 8 - Hot water heater bypass valves in a Roadtrek 210P - in the "winter" position
Top is the center "bypass" valve which is in the open position (handle in-line with piping)
Left and right are the inlet and outlet valves to the water heater - both are closed (handles at right angle to piping)

Photo 9 - Interior Fresh Water Tank - Fill Plug inside rear door

Photo 10 - Interior Fresh Water Tank - Fill Plug Removed

Photo 11- Using a funnel to add pink antifreeze to a fresh water tank -
Photo is for the exterior tank which is filled via the driver's door entry point

Photo 12 - Water Pump switch is ON

A Case History Example

We once were driving from Illinois to Arizona and ran into a really nasty winter storm in New Mexico. Temperatures were about 50F with rain, but were predicted to fall below 15F for several days. So we dumped the tanks while trekking, and I performed the above procedure while in a gas station. I always carry two gallons of anti-freeze in the rear-under storage compartment.  That night, the temperatures dropped to about 5F. The next morning we awoke to a winter wonderland.

I've found that doing this procedure takes about 30 minutes. I have a funnel stored in that rear compartment too!

Our First winter trek, December 2013

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Stained deck at the "cabin"

This is a post update. I've included a link to the earlier post on this subject.  We added a 10 ft x 16 ft deck at the "cabin" and have been very pleased with the result. Final step was to stain it.

This deck was actually constructed of a repurposed one, so the wood was not green and had weathered. Prior to staining we scrubbed it, then hosed it down and allowed it to dry several days.  The deck does get afternoon sun if the awning isn't used.

We chose a Cabot's product. I've used this family of stains since about 1984 with great success. We used "Cabot's semi-solid deck and siding stain" and we chose a neutral color "Beechwood gray" which also lightens the area, particularly at night.

Application of the stain took about 2 hours for the deck, as anticipated. I applied it using a 3 inch brush, on a cool day, and the actual temperatures were 65-75 prior to and during application.  I did the application late morning before the sun reached over the pines. This stain is not to be applied if the deck is in the sun. The stairs took a while longer.  Coverage was per the manufacturer's statement on the can, and it did take a bit more than a half-gallon to cover the deck. The stairs were stained top and bottom, which did use additional stain.

Stained deck and stairs a the "cabin"

Here's a link to the earlier post on the deck installation:

Click to go to earlier post about constructing this deck



Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Flamenco Quartet Project

One of the things about trekking is the opportunity to see anything one wants. We stop by the Acorn Theater in Three Oaks MI because they usually have something we like.

We were fortunate to be in the area and saw a wonderful Flamenco group. I made a sampler video. Enjoy!

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Photo Collections

Google has announced the shutdown of the Consumer version of Google Plus (G+).  So it is only a matter of time before my photo collections vanish.

Here's a few links to some of the collections:


Life on the Beach

Travel with Normie and Georgie


White Sands National Monument

Cooking, Mostly on the Road

National Museum of the U.S. Air Force

Savannah, Georgia

70 Miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway

Roswell, NM

White Sands Missile Base

White Sands National Monument

Travel with Georgie and Normie

Sabino Canyon

Fernwood Botanical Gardens

Chicago Area Treks



Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Fall Weather Changes - Rain and Mist

With the end of Summer we have moved into Fall.  Some nights as cool as 45 degrees, and some days only reach 64F. Some days are wet, while others are dry.  Some overcast, and some are sunny.  The monarch butterfly migration continues on warm and dry days.  On wet days they hunker down, and are not to be seen.  But as soon as  the sun comes out and it dries out and warms up, then the butterflies work their way south.

Walking shortly after the rain has ended, the mist flows with the wind.

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/

Rip Current Rescue

Update September 25, 2018
Received today over at YouTube.com:
"Hi Norman - this is Teri Hoskin from Michigan Rescue Concepts, - Great Video! - Thank you for giving us permission to use it -We will use it in our rescue boat training seminars. Its very rewarding to see that our products and training make a difference and save a life! Thank you!!"


 Update September 23, 2018
Well, the video was a hit.  It was picked up by WSBT-TV in South Bend and by Newschannel 3 in Kalamazoo, Michigan.  ABC reached out and asked "Hello, I'm with ABC News. I hope that you are doing well! Did you shoot this video? if so, may we have your permission to use it across all ABC platforms/partners with credit to you?"

Glad to help! Actually, I'm most pleased to assist the people who trained the responders and provided the rescue craft.

Original Post September 22, 2018 5:36 PM
We had a very full day today and stopped by the Warren Dunes State Park late in the afternoon. There are permanent signs posted about the dangers of rip currents, but there are always some swimmers in the water even when the red flag is up.

Today, a young man was rescued after he was pulled into the lake by a rip current. The emergency responders did a fine job, while we all looked on. One very lucky guy.

Original material:  https://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/