This is our Trek in our Roadtrek 210P. Hint: Scroll to a list of "Topics and Destinations" on the right. Our RT is a portal to a much larger world and we have established "lily pads" from which we travel and we'll post about those, too. Life is a Journey of discovery in our Motorized Alpaca, a "tiny cabins on wheels". It has been said that "Life Begins at the end of our Comfort Zone." Content and photos are original unless noted. Click photos to enlarge.
Copyright and disclaimers apply.
7 Pages are shown on the Main Page.
7 pages are shown on the Main Page. To see additional posts, click on the link "Older Posts" at the bottom of the main page. For videos go to https://www.youtube.com/@normanretzke4377/videos click "skip" to avoid ads
G has a "swell" time kayaking
G has a "swell" time on Lake Michigan in an inflatable canoe
Vivo has been given a patent for a small drone tucked inside of a smartphone. In fact, the small drone has two cameras, one forward facing and the other downward facing. So, who knows? In a few years we all may be taking aerial photos. This drone is so small that it skirts current FAA rules about registering and publishing aerial drone photos. However, a drone this small will have difficulty dealing with wind.....
Using 3M Scotch-Brite Rough Pad to scour electrical contacts (photo after cleaning)
The side door electric lock stopped working with the Chevy fob. It became intermittent.
This was an easy thing to fix. There are two, spring loaded contacts on the door and these align with two copper pads on the inside of the door frame. When the door is closed, these contacts should align and the spring pressure should be sufficient to pass electric current to the door lock solenoid.
I concluded that wasn't happening. I inspected the contacts, which were no longer bright brass and the plates were slightly pitted where physical contact is made. I concluded that minor oxidation was creating sufficient electrical resistance to prevent adequate power from reaching the door lock solenoid.
In the old days, I would have used very fine sandpaper to remove the oxidation.
Scotch-Brite is Superior
I decided instead to use a dry sponge which had "Scotch-Brite" green scouring pad on one side (trademark of 3M company). I usually have a few of these as well as the blue sponge/pads for dishes. However, for this chore a rougher pad than the blue was necessary. So I took an old green one and used it dry to buff the contacts. About 30 seconds of rubbing was sufficient to brighten them up.
For industrial applications, a silver contact would be preferred, but for an automobile brass is the choice of the manufacturer.
Buffing the door contact plates
Buffing the door mounted, spring-loaded contact surfaces
After wiping the contact surfaces with a clean rag, the electric door lock worked as designed.
Original Material: Roadtrek210.blogspot.com (c) 2021
If you go to my YouTube Channel, or read this blog, you won't see any videos made from drones. Why is that, you may ask? The answer to that question involves FAA rules for all drone pilots, including hobbyists and "recreational flyers".
The US Government, via the FAA, has been creating and enforcing ever stricter rules about drones. According to the FAA website:
"Unmanned Aircraft Systems (UAS or drones) must be registered with the FAA........ All drones must be registered, except those that weigh .55 pounds or less (less than 250 grams) and are flown exclusively under the Exception for Recreational Flyers." All registered drones must be labeled with the registration number.
Furthermore, the FAA website states:
"Failure to register a drone that requires registration may result in regulatory and criminal penalties. The FAA may assess civil penalties up to $27,500. Criminal penalties include fines of up to $250,000 and/or imprisonment for up to three (3) years. "
Mandatory online training required to fly legally
As of June 22, the FAA rules for recreational drone flying include taking The Recreational UAS Safety Test (TRUST) and carrying proof of test passage any time one flies a drone for recreational purposes. It also requires that all such drones be registered with the FAA by the owner. However, even with this license, videos made for recreational purposes may not be posted here. Why?
The FAA rules have reached the point where flying a drone and creating a video for pure "personal entertainment" is allowed, but any posting on YouTube, a personal website and even using a drone to video the gutters of one's home is considered a non-recreational "commercial" enterprise. If I flew my drone and used it to inspect the roof of my RV, that would be a non-hobbyist, non-recreational use according to the FAA. Such use would be automatically a "commercial" use. Commercial use requires a different license.
Non-recreational use has resulted in significant FAA fines and in one publicized case a fine of more than $100,000 was levied. Well dear reader, if you want to see my videos, send me a comment with your email address and I'll consider making videos and starting a GoFundMe campaign to which you can make contributions to pay my fines. LOL.
I have owned several drones, but I have avoided any possible use other than "personal enjoyment" which is why you have not seen any videos by me using a drone. The registration TRUST requirement is new.
I am acquiring a FAA Part 107 drone pilot's license. That does not assure than any of my readers will ever see a video made with one of my drones.
In 2018 the Congress directed the FAA to develop a recreational drone operator test. It only took three years but the FAA has finally issued their test and more importantly, has issued certificates of instruction/test to certain businesses. So, one is not only required to take the test, one can actually take the test, and we now know where to go to take it. A big improvement. But keep in mind that this recreational license only allows one to fly a drone legally; it does not allow posting of videos.
This recent action has moved the testing from the FAA limbo it has been in for several years.
FAA "TRUST" Certification
Here is the way one recent article describes this certification: "The FAA Reauthorization Act of 2018 directed the FAA to develop a recreational drone operator test: the drone industry provided stakeholder input, and the result is a free, online test administered by non-government test administrators. Recreational drone flyers who pass the test will be issued a completion certificate. When asked, a recreational drone pilot must provide evidence of having taken the test. Currently, however, the FAA has not announced a system to enforce test taking or to educate consumers about the test at time of purchase.
In addition to clubs such as the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) and the Boy Scouts of America, TRUST will be administered by qualified educational and training organizations across the country."
However, being a "recreational drone flyer" even after passing a test, does impose serious restrictions. According to the FAA website:
"A recreational flyer is someone who operates their drone for fun or personal enjoyment purposes only.
How to fly a drone recreationally:
If your drone weighs more than .55 lbs, register your drone through the FAA's DroneZone.
Pass TRUST.
Follow safety guidelines on the FAA website or of an existing aeromodelling organization."
According to the FAA, this is the definition of "Recreational Flight": "Recreational flight is simply flying for fun or personal enjoyment." The FAA defines it this way:
"What is a Recreational Flight?
Many people assume that a recreational flight is one that is not operated for a business or any form of compensation. But, that's not always the case. Financial compensation, or the lack of it, is not what determines if the flight is recreational or commercial. The following information can be used to help you determine what rules you should be operating under. Remember, the default regulation for drones weighing under 55 pounds is Part 107. The exception for recreational flyers only applies to flights that are purely for fun or personal enjoyment and weigh less than 0.55 pounds. When in doubt, fly under Part 107.
Note: Non-recreational purposes include things like taking photos to help sell a property or service, roof inspections, or taking pictures of a high school football game for the school's website. Goodwill or other non-monetary value can also be considered indirect compensation. This would include things like volunteering to use your drone to survey coastlines on behalf of a non-profit organization. Recreational flight is simply flying for fun or personal enjoyment."
As a consequence creating drone video footage and posting here is expressly prohibited for any type of recreational flying.
For more about the FAA rules about "recreational flight" and these are available at the FAA website:
BTW, I take no issue or affront with the FAA. They are merely upholding the rules as stipulated by Congress. Nor am I here to provide an opine if registration is a good thing or a bad thing. I leave that to the social media types, who have opinions on everything.
Original Material: Roadtrek210.blogspot.com (C) 2021
Chipped Windshield - Star Crack with Crater - enlarged view
Minor Windshield Repairs
If my experience is typical, we all experience minor damage to our Roadtrek windshield in the form of chips or star cracks. I've had two such noticeable experiences and a lot of minor dings. I repaired both of the noticeable chips using over the counter epoxy-resin repair kits. I've used kits by two different manufacturers. Both used the same repair technique and both did the job.
The windshield damage I've experienced was small, one was about 3/16 inch "bullseye" crater, the other a star pattern about 1/2-3/4 inch across. The manufacturer of the kit I used to repair the "star" indicates that it is suitable for chips or damage of up to 1-1/4 inch in diameter. Had the damage had been more serious, I would have had a professional do it. However, my experience indicates that dealing with minor windshield issues is something an amateur can do.
How successful were the repairs? The bullseye became invisible after the repair. With the star, there remained a barely perceptible hairline after the repair.
The bullseye chip was annoying because it was directly in front of my line of sight. I repaired it with a readily available repair kit. The second was more serious damage in the form of what is called a star. I was skeptical but decided to try a repair kit.
In my experience, it is best to do the repair in the shade, which the manufacturer recommends. Follow the manufacturer's directions. The kit I used recommended:
Don't repair in full sun; perform in shade.
Don't use for repairs larger than 1-1/4 inch diameter.
Cure in full sun - the epoxy resin requires ultraviolet light to cure.
For additional instructions read the printed sheet that comes with the kit.
I cleaned the window and picked any loose pieces out of the damage area using a sharp pin. After cleaning the area I applied the resin per the instructions for the specified time. After removing the injector, pedestal and seal I applied the curing film and moved the Roadtrek into full sun to allow the resin to cure.
To reach the damaged area, a ladder or step-stool may be necessary. That makes on-the-road repairs more awkward. I did both repairs while in a campground or RV resort.
For demonstration purposes, I took the following photos in full sun. However, the actual repair should be done in shade.
VersaChem Repair Kit
Contents of the Kit
Adhesive Seal applied to windshield over the star-chip
Pedestal attached to Adhesive Seal
Squeezing a portion of the Resin into the Pedestal (per instruction)
Injector on Pedestal
To complete the repair, follow the manufacturer's instructions and allow the epoxy resin to cure.
After Repair- You can't see it, because it is darn near invisible!
With the return to our summer "lily pad" we cleaned the exterior. We trek in our 210P but we have several lily pads to hang our hats. This post is about the exterior Spring Cleaning of the roof and sides of our 2010 Heartland Caliber, which is our cabin on the pond. I'll be waxing and buffing the fiberglass nose when morning temperatures are above 70F.
I do exterior cleaning in the early morning before the exterior is heated by the sun. If possible when it is overcast. I use a cleaning solution comprised of Dawn dishwashing liquid, hydrogen peroxide and water on the exterior.
I first spray with cold water, and then I apply the cleaning solution with a soft brush. I scrub the entire roof, too.
I spray the awning and then brush. After knocking off the loose dirt I apply the cleaning solution and scrub again with the soft brush. I then retract the awning while wet with the cleaning solution. I let it sit for a couple of hours. Then I unfurl and spray and scrub again. Then a final clean water rinse.
After cleaning, the slide already has tree droppings within minutes...
Awning after drying - already has tree droppings....
Sealing tape applied over a roof seam - EPDM roof on left, fiberglass cap on right
Roadtrek and Other RV Leaks Repairs
In the social media and FMCA groups that I belong to, monitor or administer, a variety of exterior RV leaks have been discussed and there is the occasional call for solutions. Such leaks can be an issue in any type of RV. Loose or leaking roof window "ports", damage to the roof, and so on could occur in my Roadtrek. I've thought about this and about how to deal with this on a temporary basis, if it occurs during a trek? I've even considered how to deal with a side window hinge problem, should it occur. I've prepared for this, but knock on fiberglass, I have yet to have an exterior leak in the 210P.
One of the things I've carried in the Roadtrek since 2017 is a roll of 4 inch wide Eternabond tape. This is suitable for temporary repairs as well as more permanent repairs. This post looks into such a repair.
4 inch wide 20 ft. roll
I carry this tape because I decided it is a great way to deal with roof leak problems on a variety of RV roofs and I consider this important while we are trekking. I would use it as a temporary side hinge window repair on my 210P. The 210P has a fiberglass roof, and those three characteristic windows on the front of the roof, and so far, so good. But I've had neighbors in campgrounds who weren't so fortunate. At one campground a large branch detached from a tree and came down. It did not hit my rig, but if it had, I'm sure it would have created a crack in the fiberglass shell, or worse. That would have been the source of a roof leak. Keeping water out of the interior of the rig is important.
I purchased a 4 inch x 20 ft. roll, which is sufficient for perceived emergency repair needs, and carry it it in the 210P. The 4 inch width does set limitations, but a larger problem can be dealt with by lapping the tape. Such a lapped application could be 7 inches wide. This would be a "temporary" solution which could get me through the issue and not disrupt a trek. When we are trekking my goal is to complete the trek and deal with maintenance issues later, under controlled circumstances when we are not "wherever". So, I carry repair essentials because I prefer to avoid a diversion to deal with repairs while on a trek. I carry spare parts and solutions with me to deal with identified, potential problems. Eternabond tape is one such solution.
Since 2013, this approach, coupled with a vigorous preventative maintenance program has worked well for us. We have yet to have a trek interrupted because of any type of mishap or failure. Of course, there will be a first time, but not yet!
I have used some of the roll of tape for non-Roadtrek repairs as a seam sealer, and for other repairs unrelated to RVs, including a cracked plastic drain pipe. However, the exterior of that pipe was clean and the pipe was under no pressure, with gray water flowing within via by gravity.
This post looks at a very recent RV roof repair, using such tape.
The word Eternabond makes one think of the word "eternal" and yes, it can be a long lasting bonding tape, when properly applied to a solid, non-porous, dry, clean and prepared surface. Keep in mind that the bond and seal of the tape is only as strong and effective as whatever it is attached to.
Be aware, it is really sticky and takes some care when handling. It has a bright white top layer over a gray sticky layer. When unrolled the sticky layer is protected by a thin, clear plastic backing. Removing the backing will expose the sticky part. Once that backing is removed the tape will readily stick to anything it gets in contact with and it will pick up dirt and grit. Of course, any extraneous detritus will reduce the seal and bonding ability of the tape.
Applying takes a little care. Because the tape is "semi-permanent" and super-sticky one has to exercise some care when applying. Don't let the sticky side touch anything except the area you want to apply it to!
One should read and follow the manufacturer's directions for best results. Be aware, Eternabond tape can't stick to everything and surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned. I've experimented and I can say it works, but I wouldn't attach to porous surfaces, loose surfaces, rusty pipes, unsealed wood, etc. Keep in mind that the Eternabond seal is only as strong and effective as the surface to which it is attached.
There are lots of YouTube videos to watch, too. Some are great at showing what not to do, or misapplication. Here's a brief promotional video by the Eternabond manufacturer:
Application Example - RV Roof
I recently used the tape to make a waterproof repair on a travel trailer roof. I wanted to make a roof seam waterproof. This was a preventative maintenance step. This post provides some idea of how the tape works.
I did this on a warm, dry 78F day. There is an upper temperature limit recommendation for application of the tape, and I wanted to be comfortable. Some of the work was done under cloudy-partly cloudy conditions.
Seam to be cleaned and made waterproof with sealing tape
I noticed that the lap seal at the fiberglass seam cover on the roof was developing cracks. I decided to remove the old lap-seal sealant and replace it. If I was going to do this, I also decided that I'd improve the waterproofing in the area of the membrane roof nearest to the fiberglass seam cover. I prefer to make long term repairs, rather than apply short term band-aids. The simplest repair would have been to clean and then apply a liberal amount of "self-leveling" lap sealant. But I avoided that temptation.
I polish the fiberglass nose cap of our summer TT "cabin" each spring, but I didn't want to apply sealant over wax, so I cleaned the cap, removing wax, all dirt, etc. in the vicinity of the area I would apply the tape. I'll later polish the cap.
The area of the EPDM roof also needed to be cleaned prior to using lap sealant or sealing tape. To do this I washed it, scrubbed it gently (no metal brush allowed) and then "scrubbed" again with denatured alcohol. The roof is a EPDM membrane and this, I understand can be damaged if cleaned with petroleum based products. Alcohol works and leaves no residue, so that was my choice for final cleaning.
After an initial cleaning I removed all of the old lap sealant with a plastic putty knife. I prefer a plastic scraper as I am concerned about damaging or puncturing the roof membrane:
Using a plastic putty knife to remove lap sealant
After removing most of the lap sealant the fiberglass seam cover was revealed to have lifted off of the roof. This applied upward pressure on the sealant. I guess this pressure is why the old lap sealant was developing cracks.
My goal was to fill the void and obtain a waterproof seal where the membrane roof meets the fiberglass nose of the travel trailer. To accomplish this I decided to apply non-sagging lap sealant and fill the cover the cap completely.
Partially removed lap sealant at cap covering the seam - before cleaning
After removing the old sealant, I thoroughly cleaned the area. I cleaned with soap and water, brushing lightly to remove debris while avoiding damaging the roof. To remove plant residue and mold, hydrogen peroxide and Dawn soap mixture in water works well, in my experience. I use it to clean the awning, too.
After drying, I use denatured alcohol scrub as a final cleaning step. It is my understanding that petroleum based products can be harmful to membrane roofs, so I avoid them.
Denatured Alcohol as a cleaner
I then applied non-sag lap sealant to the both sides of the seam cover where it meets the roof. It took about half a tube. I allowed 24 hours for the non-sag to set up, in the sun, before proceeding.
I next applied 3M blue indoor painters tape to provide me with a straight edge for the "permanent" sealant tape. The sealant tape is 4 inches wide, and I prefer a wider portion on the "uphill" side of the seam, so I didn't center the tape over the seam. I wanted a wider portion on the "uphill" side of the roof seam, where water may collect.
Non-sag lap sealant applied, and painter's tape straight-edge
I then did the final step and applied the "permanent" tape over the fiberglass seam cap. I took care to cut the tape longer than the width of the roof, so I could apply over the edge and on the vertical side of the seam, thereby providing a continuous seal.
To apply I removed the backing from the tape 6 inches at a time, applied one edge of the tape to the fiberglass nose cap using the straight blue tape as an edge guide. I pressed the tape into the area where the cap meets the cover, using my finger. I then rolled the tape over the fiberglass seam cover and pressed it down into the valley on the other side of the cover, and then onto the membrane roof. In this manner I minimized air spaces under the tape. I did this moving slowly, about 6 inches at a time.
I applied the tape in one continuous piece for the entire width of the roof, so as to avoid any seams.
Using the blue 3M painters tape as guide, I achieved a straighter edge on the fiberglass cap, than on the roof side. The cap side is visible to anyone at ground level and in front of the rig.
The seal of Eternabond tape is "pressure activated". To obtain a good waterproof seal it is necessary to apply a lot of pressure to the tape so that it bonds well to the roofing material. One can use a roller. I didn't have one, so I applied a lot of pressure using a flat blade.
After this, I easily removed the painter's tape "straight edge".
Ready for polishing the fiberglass nose cap
Next, a good roof and awning cleaning.
I'll be cleaning the roof next, using a low pressure hose and soft brush. We're under trees and the conifers are dropping pollen. Any additional roof maintenance beyond cleaning will occur after the air has cleared.
We returned to our summer campsite which includes our "cabin", a travel trailer at a campground in MI. On inspection I decided I'll be doing some repairs and preventative maintenance. Of particular interest is the roof, which needs a good cleaning and to which I may apply a roof sealant this year.
But first, a few other minor repairs. This post is about the plumbing vent caps.
After unloading we walked to the shoreline and enjoyed a sunset. I'll do the roof work on a cloudy day.
Sunset on Lake Michigan
We get partial shade because we are under a tree. However, that does mess up the roof a bit, and the two plumbing vent caps showed signs of failure. LOL.
Old Plumbing Vent Cap
I replaced both vent caps. I used two types. I'm not recommending or promoting either cap. I suggest one do additional research. I've included a link to one of the manufacturer's videos in the post.
One cap is an inexpensive Camco universal replacement. I removed the one screw holding the old cap in place, pulled it off and cut off the stabs which joined the base to the cap. A razor knife did it. This was a quick and easy replacement. I also used some Dicor non-sag lap sealant to fill a crack which was forming in the existing lap sealant.
I use a plastic putty knife to remove old lap sealant. I am concerned about damaging the existing membrane roof by using a steel scraper. I buy 2" wide putty knifes in a two-pack at Ace.
Here's a photo from another of my RV roof projects, showing a putty knife in action:
Using a 2 inch plastic putty knife to remove lap sealant
Camco Universal Vent Cap Replacement
The second cap was replaced with a Lippert Components 389381 360 Siphon Roof Vent Cap - White (Gen 2). This is significantly more costly than the Camco universal replacement.
The Lippert has several different installation methods. One method allows the reuse of the existing base. Another method replaces the entire vent cap.
After removing the second, existing vent cap I decided to retain the base. In other words, I didn't have to scrape all of that old lap sealant off and remove the base. I chose to retain the old based because the roof flange was of a larger diameter than the new base. I also did a test fit of the entire cap and decided I didn't want to hacksaw the 2-3/8 diameter vent pipe, which projected too far above the roof for the Lippert. To do the partial replacement required some glue. I used Goop and with a rock on the cap, I let it set overnight under pressure. The instructions for this approach was included with the Lippert I purchased. After the glue set, I applied "Eternabond" tape over the seam, for good measure.
Lippert Vent cap replacement - using old base.
Lippert Components
The Lippert claims to have better siphoning because of its patented design. I'm curious about this, which is why I purchased one......It may be an improvement at our winter location and I want to see how it performs. However, the cost is a consideration.
For more on the Lippert, here is a promotional video which shows how it works:
